New battery required??
Discussion
I leave my Mk.1 S on a trickle charger/C-Teck.
When I disconnect if I want to use the car, the dashboard display gives me ~ 13V - with the immobiliser disabled and about to crank the engine.
I'll use the car - get maybe 20 miles driving, maybe more, and then when I want to restart the LCD display is giving me ~ 12V. At this stage, the cranking doesn't sound so 'perky'.
I've done a parasitic current drain check - - - and no worries there. Do I need a new battery?
Nick
When I disconnect if I want to use the car, the dashboard display gives me ~ 13V - with the immobiliser disabled and about to crank the engine.
I'll use the car - get maybe 20 miles driving, maybe more, and then when I want to restart the LCD display is giving me ~ 12V. At this stage, the cranking doesn't sound so 'perky'.
I've done a parasitic current drain check - - - and no worries there. Do I need a new battery?
Nick
If your indicator is not in tenths of a volt and is rounding up or down, it may not be as bad as you think. A full charged battery (several hours after removing from charge) is 12.6 - 12.7V
The problem with trickle chargers is in the description. They constantly trickle charge your battery so you never really know its condition unless the charger is a sophisticated one, the type that do a discharge check.
The battery in my Cerbera recently gave up the ghost (I add, after 4 months in my possession), the previous owner kept it trickle charged. I do not have one, only your cheap charger type, which helps if I have a dying battery.
Leaving mine for more than 48 hrs from last running, there was insufficient charge to start it. Leaving it a few days after swapping it, it was down to 12.13V in the shed, that's about 25% capacity. And it was dropping below 9V on cranking. The immobilser would cut in and out and the hazards flash because the car thought the battery had actually been disconnected whilst attempting to crank!
If it isn't a being stranded issue, I'd leave it a few days without charging it and then read the terminal voltage. Here's a guide to capacity:
http://all-about-lead-acid-batteries.capnfatz.com/...
The problem with trickle chargers is in the description. They constantly trickle charge your battery so you never really know its condition unless the charger is a sophisticated one, the type that do a discharge check.
The battery in my Cerbera recently gave up the ghost (I add, after 4 months in my possession), the previous owner kept it trickle charged. I do not have one, only your cheap charger type, which helps if I have a dying battery.
Leaving mine for more than 48 hrs from last running, there was insufficient charge to start it. Leaving it a few days after swapping it, it was down to 12.13V in the shed, that's about 25% capacity. And it was dropping below 9V on cranking. The immobilser would cut in and out and the hazards flash because the car thought the battery had actually been disconnected whilst attempting to crank!
If it isn't a being stranded issue, I'd leave it a few days without charging it and then read the terminal voltage. Here's a guide to capacity:
http://all-about-lead-acid-batteries.capnfatz.com/...
Edited by ianwayne on Tuesday 29th January 18:30
QBee said:
If this was a Chimaera, I would be checking the 100 amp fuse that is electrically between the alternator and the battery - if blown, it stops the alternator charging the battery, leaving the car running on battery. Does the Tuscan have one?
Yes it does, under the airbox and a failed one gives the symptoms described. The alternator would be the next thing to check. Sounds like the battery isn't charging on the move to meQBee said:
If this was a Chimaera, I would be checking the 100 amp fuse that is electrically between the alternator and the battery - if blown, it stops the alternator charging the battery, leaving the car running on battery. Does the Tuscan have one?
QBee - 100A fuse is fine - about 4/5 months ago I had the starter motor out to clean up the pinion (sticking on shaft) and checked the fuse which is adjacent. It is a 'midi' type in any event.Nick
ianwayne said:
If your indicator is not in tenths of a volt and is rounding up or down, it may not be as bad as you think. A full charged battery (several hours after removing from charge) is 12.6 - 12.7V
The problem with trickle chargers is in the description. They constantly trickle charge your battery so you never really know its condition unless the charger is a sophisticated one, the type that do a discharge check.
The battery in my Cerbera recently gave up the ghost (I add, after 4 months in my possession), the previous owner kept it trickle charged. I do not have one, only your cheap charger type, which helps if I have a dying battery.
Leaving mine for more than 48 hrs from last running, there was insufficient charge to start it. Leaving it a few days after swapping it, it was down to 12.13V in the shed, that's about 25% capacity. And it was dropping below 9V on cranking. The immobilser would cut in and out and the hazards flash because the car thought the battery had actually been disconnected whilst attempting to crank!
If it isn't a being stranded issue, I'd leave it a few days without charging it and then read the terminal voltage. Here's a guide to capacity:
http://all-about-lead-acid-batteries.capnfatz.com/...
Ian - thanks....The engine always cranks, even after a couple of days....It just doesn't sound so "eager" and once it fires, the engine isn't as smooth as when it fires immediately after the battery coming off charge. My charger is an intelligent type - so I believe it allows some 'drain'/reduction in terminal voltage. before kicking in again. The problem with trickle chargers is in the description. They constantly trickle charge your battery so you never really know its condition unless the charger is a sophisticated one, the type that do a discharge check.
The battery in my Cerbera recently gave up the ghost (I add, after 4 months in my possession), the previous owner kept it trickle charged. I do not have one, only your cheap charger type, which helps if I have a dying battery.
Leaving mine for more than 48 hrs from last running, there was insufficient charge to start it. Leaving it a few days after swapping it, it was down to 12.13V in the shed, that's about 25% capacity. And it was dropping below 9V on cranking. The immobilser would cut in and out and the hazards flash because the car thought the battery had actually been disconnected whilst attempting to crank!
If it isn't a being stranded issue, I'd leave it a few days without charging it and then read the terminal voltage. Here's a guide to capacity:
http://all-about-lead-acid-batteries.capnfatz.com/...
Edited by ianwayne on Tuesday 29th January 18:30
I was always told that if the indicated voltage at cranking is less than 10V, there is insufficient battery capacity to turn engine over and power the ECU - yet my voltage (after 3-4 days with NO charging) is indicated at 11.5 to 11.8V.....but get this lack of 'eagerness'!!
Englishman - I've put a meter on the rear light with engine running and get 13.2V or so - - would confirm alternator is working OK.
The lead-acid battery link is worth a look at - cheers!
Nick
Edited by nawarne on Wednesday 30th January 09:31
Edited by nawarne on Wednesday 30th January 09:35
nawarne said:
I was always told that if the indicated voltage at cranking is less than 10V, there is insufficient battery capacity to turn engine over and power the ECU - yet my voltage (after 3-4 days with NO charging) is indicated at 11.5 to 11.8V.....but get this lack of 'eagerness'!!
Nick
Connecting a voltmeter across the battery and looking at the reading while you're cranking is how it drops a lot. If you get 11.5V during cranking, then I doubt you have anything to worry about regarding the battery! Mine would drop to below 10V and the car would just about start. When it was dropping below 9V, I knew it was kaput.Nick
Perhaps the starter motor is drawing more power in the cold, damp conditions?
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