Discussion
Just picked up this KA for free on a 54 plate with the newer engine. Friends were going to scrap it. Failed the MOT on the brake hoses and bushes I think, not sure if it’s the whole suspension arm. They’d never mentioned the rust on the arches and the sill on the MOT though so not sure if that’s a game changer for a cheap fix. I can’t insure my partner (learning to drive) on the Golf, or MX-5 as it’s on a classic policy so hoping to make this work.
Most I’ve ever done is service/consumables, but replaced windows, and other easier DIY fixes. So thinking pick up the Haynes manual and doing the hoses myself. Not sure on the bushes and doing that on the driveway.
The rusty arch might be the killer. It’s starting to crumble as you can see but the rest up the wheelarch and along the sill is fairly solid.
Other than the above it’s been serviced every year and seems like it might be worth saving.
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|https://thumbsnap.com/g72WyelB[/url]
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|https://thumbsnap.com/zbVIvAYK[/url]
Most I’ve ever done is service/consumables, but replaced windows, and other easier DIY fixes. So thinking pick up the Haynes manual and doing the hoses myself. Not sure on the bushes and doing that on the driveway.
The rusty arch might be the killer. It’s starting to crumble as you can see but the rest up the wheelarch and along the sill is fairly solid.
Other than the above it’s been serviced every year and seems like it might be worth saving.
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|https://thumbsnap.com/g72WyelB[/url][url
|https://thumbsnap.com/zbVIvAYK[/url]Edited by Birdster on Sunday 26th August 13:52
Change the whole arm if the bushes are not bolt in. Pressing them out/ in can be impossible for the home mechanic.
Bottom arm looks like a simple case of break the ball joint and undo the inner bolt and slide it out. Brakes pipes easy enough, but you mind find a good clean up and coat with grease will see them passed with a different inspector?
Edit: having read it properly looks like flexible hose. Should be a case of unbolt the old one, bolt in the new and bleed the system. Might need some specific brake spanners though.
Bottom arm looks like a simple case of break the ball joint and undo the inner bolt and slide it out. Brakes pipes easy enough, but you mind find a good clean up and coat with grease will see them passed with a different inspector?
Edit: having read it properly looks like flexible hose. Should be a case of unbolt the old one, bolt in the new and bleed the system. Might need some specific brake spanners though.
Edited by eltax91 on Sunday 26th August 14:00
They rot something chronic. Wife had one for over 10 years. Great little car, but eventually the tin worm got it.
Also chewed through suspension components, though I think that was because hers lived in town and the local roads are shocking.
Good luck with it, hopefully the sills aren't too bad.
Also chewed through suspension components, though I think that was because hers lived in town and the local roads are shocking.
Good luck with it, hopefully the sills aren't too bad.
Started work on the KA. Lower arms were £130 each from Fords, so pattern parts from Euro Car Parts were ordered. Both lower arms replaced. Was quite pleased with myself until I noticed a split in the boot. £40 mistake right there, but I guess it’s a learning curve for me when this is the most mechanical I’ve gotten. All in took me five hours including setting up and packing away. Working out the best way to jack and support the car on a gravel drive with two solid concrete paths for the tyres/wheel base was a challenge as I wanted it to be secure, the second arm took about an hour and half all in, so once I learned how to the first went, the second went much smoother.
I know you can buy the boots that split and you glue together, any idea on the rules gluing a boot as long as it doesn’t let in debris and leak grease? I’m guessing it’s a fail but I tried anyway as was so gutted.
Quite fond of the little Ka now.
I know you can buy the boots that split and you glue together, any idea on the rules gluing a boot as long as it doesn’t let in debris and leak grease? I’m guessing it’s a fail but I tried anyway as was so gutted.
Quite fond of the little Ka now.
So I changed the arm, the brake hoses and bled the brakes. I let the reservoir drop, which is big no no. Ended up using 2.5 litres of brake fluid to bleed the system. You could hear the master cylinder was empty at times. I’m concerned about damage but the pedal has returned to its previous firmness. Solid with engine off and when driving it’s then about half/two thirds travel, so nowhere near the bite of my Golf R, but the KA does stop nicely and will lock up if suitably provoked. The front brake pads need changing, so I’m hoping that helps with the travel.
I snow foamed, clayed, washed, polished and waxed the car and treated the bumpers and black trim with smooth peanut butter. Although it’s lost a bit of colour after washing as the clay and washing has run down on to the bumpers so I’ll do them again with some bumper gel to finish off.
It’s a 6 foot car, as close up you can see parking dings and little marks and bird dropping etchings on every panel. I guess I wanted to give the car some TLC and show it a bit of love as it’s been subject to car washes and supermarket washes once in a blue moon. I threw out the mats and interior bits and removed the stickers. Next step is to clean the inside, fit the mats and unbranded wheel trims. I might pick up a replacement boot badge, but need to draw the line on costs somewhere as it’s never going to be perfect.
I wasn’t sure if I had disturbed part of the suspension/driveshaft as there was hesitation when accelerating in first and second and some vibration. Not evident in reverse, but is when revving whilst stationary. The EML is static yellow so need to try and figure that one out. I have a OBD2 EM327 so hopefully I can read something with that. I’m guessing coil pack.
After washing the rust on the sill is more visible now so need to look at options. I’m guessing as it’s near the rear suspension and seatbelt that this will be a MOTfail? I’ve come this far so might as well save it. I’m wondering if a patch will do on the sill end plate, or ask them to fit a pattern part replacement sill panel. I know the panel is £30, but it’s the labour costs. If anyone knows anyone to do the work in Romford please let me know. Photos below.
I snow foamed, clayed, washed, polished and waxed the car and treated the bumpers and black trim with smooth peanut butter. Although it’s lost a bit of colour after washing as the clay and washing has run down on to the bumpers so I’ll do them again with some bumper gel to finish off.
It’s a 6 foot car, as close up you can see parking dings and little marks and bird dropping etchings on every panel. I guess I wanted to give the car some TLC and show it a bit of love as it’s been subject to car washes and supermarket washes once in a blue moon. I threw out the mats and interior bits and removed the stickers. Next step is to clean the inside, fit the mats and unbranded wheel trims. I might pick up a replacement boot badge, but need to draw the line on costs somewhere as it’s never going to be perfect.
I wasn’t sure if I had disturbed part of the suspension/driveshaft as there was hesitation when accelerating in first and second and some vibration. Not evident in reverse, but is when revving whilst stationary. The EML is static yellow so need to try and figure that one out. I have a OBD2 EM327 so hopefully I can read something with that. I’m guessing coil pack.
After washing the rust on the sill is more visible now so need to look at options. I’m guessing as it’s near the rear suspension and seatbelt that this will be a MOTfail? I’ve come this far so might as well save it. I’m wondering if a patch will do on the sill end plate, or ask them to fit a pattern part replacement sill panel. I know the panel is £30, but it’s the labour costs. If anyone knows anyone to do the work in Romford please let me know. Photos below.
Edited by Birdster on Wednesday 19th September 00:28
Not surprised at the absolute rot boxes that became of many Mk1 Ford KA
The workers basically pissed on the paint it's so thin in places and the less said about the rough beige primer underneath the car the better.
Would consider colour coding this one myself as the black bumper looks a bit pants in my opinion. Should pick a front and rear bumper from the breakers for £15-20 each.
The workers basically pissed on the paint it's so thin in places and the less said about the rough beige primer underneath the car the better.
Would consider colour coding this one myself as the black bumper looks a bit pants in my opinion. Should pick a front and rear bumper from the breakers for £15-20 each.
Edited by BlueHave on Wednesday 19th September 02:26
Cheers.
I had thought about the black bumpers as colour coded would really smarten it up, but remember reading about the insurance and modification thread. With a budget car is it worth having to notify of visual modifications. When I phone up for quotes again I’ll see how much it adds, if anything at all. Then I might as well add alloy wheels. Then sort out the dings on every panel.
Does anyone know if there were two shades of black for the KA?
I had thought about the black bumpers as colour coded would really smarten it up, but remember reading about the insurance and modification thread. With a budget car is it worth having to notify of visual modifications. When I phone up for quotes again I’ll see how much it adds, if anything at all. Then I might as well add alloy wheels. Then sort out the dings on every panel.
Does anyone know if there were two shades of black for the KA?
I looked online and locally it’s about £55 delivered per bumper. Don’t think it’s worth it to be honest. Need the car to be functional. If I bought the bumpers, I’d like the alloys, then to have the two rear wings pulled out and painted. Seeems to be a common damage point as the car widens after the b pillar.
I always try to be positive and you have done some good work here OP.
However, I looked at a friends that was newer than yours had failed it's MOT on rust. I have never seen such a death trap in my life and it was being driven on the motorway up to the day it failed it's MOT . It was truely appalling. I would not give it away, it had to be scrapped.
I would give your car a proper prodding underneath with a screw driver, to confirm if it has any structural integrity left before letting a loved one / anyone drive the thing.
I really hope it is all good.
ETA: On looking at your pictures again, yours is better, so fingers crossed for you!
However, I looked at a friends that was newer than yours had failed it's MOT on rust. I have never seen such a death trap in my life and it was being driven on the motorway up to the day it failed it's MOT . It was truely appalling. I would not give it away, it had to be scrapped.
I would give your car a proper prodding underneath with a screw driver, to confirm if it has any structural integrity left before letting a loved one / anyone drive the thing.
I really hope it is all good.
ETA: On looking at your pictures again, yours is better, so fingers crossed for you!
Edited by gf15 on Thursday 20th September 14:53
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