Headlight Pod Positioning
Discussion
Hi Andrew
IIRC there is a piece of flat bar with a small piece of 20mm hose attached..or thereabouts ...This is bolted to the underside of the pod, it acts as a stopper for the height and then butts up against another piece of flat bar with hose on it on the floor pan underneath it when closed...
Hope this makes sense...
Ziga
IIRC there is a piece of flat bar with a small piece of 20mm hose attached..or thereabouts ...This is bolted to the underside of the pod, it acts as a stopper for the height and then butts up against another piece of flat bar with hose on it on the floor pan underneath it when closed...
Hope this makes sense...
Ziga

What sets UP and DOWN on the pod is the switches inside the motor.
You can't adjust the switch position at all.
check motor is tight on the bracket, and the bracket itself is tight to body first.
The rod which connects the motor arm to the pod is adjustable for length, and there are two very home-made, (ie. typical crappy TVR) bits of bent steel with a bit of heater hose
around them to make bump stops.
The bump stops are only there to stop the pod vibrating, not to change the position.
So, you have to take the headlamp out, set the arm to line up with the bodywork when it's down (and you have to have the pod UP to adjust the arm, so that's going around a few times..)
and DON'T put yer arm in with power connected, as it's not funny at all....
so adjust the pod when it's down to match the bodywork, and then with the lower bump stop so it doesn't rattle (new hose helps), i.e. slight pressure on hose.
then check pod is OK when it's UP, adjust the UP bump stop so pod doesn't rattle, and finally adjust headlamp alignment to suit.
good for an hour's work or so if nothing is seized up....
You can't adjust the switch position at all.
check motor is tight on the bracket, and the bracket itself is tight to body first.
The rod which connects the motor arm to the pod is adjustable for length, and there are two very home-made, (ie. typical crappy TVR) bits of bent steel with a bit of heater hose
around them to make bump stops.
The bump stops are only there to stop the pod vibrating, not to change the position.
So, you have to take the headlamp out, set the arm to line up with the bodywork when it's down (and you have to have the pod UP to adjust the arm, so that's going around a few times..)
and DON'T put yer arm in with power connected, as it's not funny at all....
so adjust the pod when it's down to match the bodywork, and then with the lower bump stop so it doesn't rattle (new hose helps), i.e. slight pressure on hose.
then check pod is OK when it's UP, adjust the UP bump stop so pod doesn't rattle, and finally adjust headlamp alignment to suit.
good for an hour's work or so if nothing is seized up....
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 4th June 02:22
Here https://tvrcarclub.de/knowledgebase/wedge-headligh... I found the following image and added my comments


Penelope Stopit said:


mrzigazaga said:
Penelope Stopit said:


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