Bottom of the TP problem
Discussion
Has anyone ever got to the bottom of TP "why do they go" problem.
My S2 is now in need of another TP. The last one replaced about 6months ago. The dilema being, which one to go for-cerbi or Ford. The obvious difference is in the price, but the perfermance of them seems to have mixed responses. £20 to gamble or £50 to fix. Sense says go for the fix but pocket says gamble.
My S2 is now in need of another TP. The last one replaced about 6months ago. The dilema being, which one to go for-cerbi or Ford. The obvious difference is in the price, but the perfermance of them seems to have mixed responses. £20 to gamble or £50 to fix. Sense says go for the fix but pocket says gamble.
!! 
?
In a granada, the TP is just behind the radiator fan, getting full belt of fresh air as the fan is always turning (viscous-coupled).
In the TVR, the fan is miles away at the front of the car so the TP is bound to be hotter. This may affect the wiring as much as the TP itself though, and if I was replacing TPs as regularly as some have said, I think I'd be starting to look at something else in the connections and wiring TBH...
In the TVR, the fan is miles away at the front of the car so the TP is bound to be hotter. This may affect the wiring as much as the TP itself though, and if I was replacing TPs as regularly as some have said, I think I'd be starting to look at something else in the connections and wiring TBH...
I paid £44 for mine when I had the S, then found out that the connector was gold already, so took that back. I'm on a Cerbie pot with no bad effects other than perhaps a slightly flatter pick-up from idle.
They do seem to last better and the performance is just the same when you open her up.
Some effort to 'roof over' the TP with a bit of rubber or plastic to keep them dry certainly pays off,and in my view its the front engine loom wiring thats the fault often diagnosed as 'another duff TP'
Where the loom sits on top of the engine it deteriorates and gets brittle leading to problems with the injectors and ECU sensors, most regularly the TP.
Move the loom up over the top of the coil to get it away from the top of the engine.It keeps a lot cooler and stays in much better shape.
They do seem to last better and the performance is just the same when you open her up.
Some effort to 'roof over' the TP with a bit of rubber or plastic to keep them dry certainly pays off,and in my view its the front engine loom wiring thats the fault often diagnosed as 'another duff TP'
Where the loom sits on top of the engine it deteriorates and gets brittle leading to problems with the injectors and ECU sensors, most regularly the TP.
Move the loom up over the top of the coil to get it away from the top of the engine.It keeps a lot cooler and stays in much better shape.
All very good suggestions although I have a question about some of the points raised.
Firstly the last TP that failed on my car did so when the engine was cold. The garage also directed air from the cabin intake to the TP to no effect.
There are more sensors on the front loom so why is it only the TP that dies every time ?
If it was a wiring fault why have all the TP's died in the same way ?
Firstly the last TP that failed on my car did so when the engine was cold. The garage also directed air from the cabin intake to the TP to no effect.
There are more sensors on the front loom so why is it only the TP that dies every time ?
If it was a wiring fault why have all the TP's died in the same way ?
Each case is going to differ or be a combination of ailments rather than perhaps just the TP.
For example,several posts have talked about changing the TP several times because that seemed the fix,only to learn the TP was OK it was the loom that buggered things up each time it was disturbed.Shake the connections about or tug on the front loom and things started playing up.
I think in the case of the TP its water as much as temperature changes that lead to failure.
I found once that the rubber seal around the three TP connections was full of the stuff and cut the bottom out of it so it can drain.A roof over it does help I'm sure,to prevent water getting onto it from the bonnet intake.
Just my experience...someone who knows their stuff will be along!
For example,several posts have talked about changing the TP several times because that seemed the fix,only to learn the TP was OK it was the loom that buggered things up each time it was disturbed.Shake the connections about or tug on the front loom and things started playing up.
I think in the case of the TP its water as much as temperature changes that lead to failure.
I found once that the rubber seal around the three TP connections was full of the stuff and cut the bottom out of it so it can drain.A roof over it does help I'm sure,to prevent water getting onto it from the bonnet intake.
Just my experience...someone who knows their stuff will be along!
Got the TP fitted and everything is running sweet again. Tickover down to 900rpm, no smell of petrol on startup. My local diagnostic center says most likely cause of failure is the heat. Gonna wrap mine in foil to see if that helps. He also said he can remember changing quite a few on Grandas and sarah's. I checked all the wiring before i changed TPs, so I know that's not at fault
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff