oil leak from timing cover 2.8i v6
Discussion
hi,presume crank oil seal needs replacing?.As new to this engine - whats the best manual to cover the cologne engine work? any special tools required?seals/gaskets for this job -best place to source.Is there anything else i should check /replace while in there? low mileage engine but sat idle for many years. any info greatly appreciated.thanks dave
Something like this should do the job... Haynes Granada 2.8 Manual, same engine also found its way into Capri's and Sierra's.
If it's just the crank seal, you CAN replace it without taking the engine apart - just remove the crank pulley.
Put it in gear to lock engine and undo the big nut - crank will come off - may need a little leverage (not too much, belt ridge edges are fragile and will break)
can lever out old seal and use a big socket to push new one in, with lots of sealer.
Or - drain coolant and remove crank pulley and water pump and then front cover.
then it's a lot easier to get at.
But then you need several gaskets and two sealing rings (block to front cover)....
Up to you.
Put it in gear to lock engine and undo the big nut - crank will come off - may need a little leverage (not too much, belt ridge edges are fragile and will break)
can lever out old seal and use a big socket to push new one in, with lots of sealer.
Or - drain coolant and remove crank pulley and water pump and then front cover.
then it's a lot easier to get at.
But then you need several gaskets and two sealing rings (block to front cover)....
Up to you.
RCK974X said:
crank will come off
I hope not!RCK974X said:
with lots of sealer.
New seal should "self seal" into cover, may be a light smear of grease to help it slip in.RCK974X said:
remove crank pulley and water pump and then front cover.
2.8 may be different but on 2.9 sump needs dropping?"crank will come off" - Oops "crank PULLEY will...." I Concede that one !!
"New seal should "self seal" into cover, may be a light smear of grease to help it slip in."
I've always put sealer on on the basis it ALSO lubricates, but then locks (especially if seal isn't quite square, a risk if done only with pulley removed)
" 2.8 may be different but on 2.9 sump needs dropping? "
2.8 - No, I don't remember needing to do that for front.
Can't remember if rear seal is 'clamped' between sump and block - I think it is.
I thought 2.8 and 2.9 are very similar for sump and 'bottom end' stuff, but I know heads are different enough that they aren't interchangeable
But not worked on 2.9 so don't know for sure.
"New seal should "self seal" into cover, may be a light smear of grease to help it slip in."
I've always put sealer on on the basis it ALSO lubricates, but then locks (especially if seal isn't quite square, a risk if done only with pulley removed)
" 2.8 may be different but on 2.9 sump needs dropping? "
2.8 - No, I don't remember needing to do that for front.
Can't remember if rear seal is 'clamped' between sump and block - I think it is.
I thought 2.8 and 2.9 are very similar for sump and 'bottom end' stuff, but I know heads are different enough that they aren't interchangeable
But not worked on 2.9 so don't know for sure.
Regarding removal of the front timing cover, on the 2.8 the sump will need to be dropped, its due to the crappy sealing arrangement used at the front timing cover (similarly crappy setup used at the rear.)
Incidentally if you are replacing the sump gasket on a 2.8, I would recommend using the later gasket from the 2.9, as it's a single piece rubber affair, as opposed to the POS that was used on the 2.8 which comes in about 6 pieces.
Chris.
Incidentally if you are replacing the sump gasket on a 2.8, I would recommend using the later gasket from the 2.9, as it's a single piece rubber affair, as opposed to the POS that was used on the 2.8 which comes in about 6 pieces.
Chris.
french dave said:
Hi,Phillpot are you recommending removing the timing cover
No, that's the last thing you want to do! I did mine (2.9 but no significant difference) by:removing the pulley
hammer an old screwdriver into the seal and prise it out carefully, you don't want to damage the housing (timing cover).
tap new seal in to housing evenly and gently (I use a piece of wood), lightest smear of grease to help it "slip in", you should feel it go solid as it bottoms in the housing.
re-fit pulley, plenty of grease on it to lube seal lip till some oil gets thrown around.
Your new seal should look something like this (generic picture), the rubber covering the seal will create a seal.
If you have an after market seal where the outer surface is bare metal a smear of sealant will be required
Edited by phillpot on Saturday 14th April 20:33
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff