T350 on 19s - any major issues?
Discussion
Hi all
still searching and researching on a t350 purchase. I have some questions on a t350 on 19s. would welcome any feedback on them as Ive seen quite a few examples now with 19s on. Any feedback would be great but what Id also love to know is:
1. do they go straight on (for example if I were to get powers Jade R) or do the shocks need adjusting?
2. Is there any rubbing? or do I need to make adjustments to account for this?
3. How does it affect the ride?
4. How does it affect braking, handling from a safety perspective?
5. How does it affect handling and performance?
thanks all
Joe
still searching and researching on a t350 purchase. I have some questions on a t350 on 19s. would welcome any feedback on them as Ive seen quite a few examples now with 19s on. Any feedback would be great but what Id also love to know is:
1. do they go straight on (for example if I were to get powers Jade R) or do the shocks need adjusting?
2. Is there any rubbing? or do I need to make adjustments to account for this?
3. How does it affect the ride?
4. How does it affect braking, handling from a safety perspective?
5. How does it affect handling and performance?
thanks all
Joe
Width and offset of the wheels are fairly critical. as is ride height /camber. Along with tyre width/sidewall size.
The body can also interfere around the front bottom edge of the front wheel arch and inside upper edge of rear but some cars have better clearance than others. At the rear there is a chassis rail that goes diagonally rearwards from outrigger to upper chassis rail, this limits the amount of inset/width (wheel&tyre) that can be fitted
I think Powers 19" "jade" wheels are ET38 9.5" rears , don't know the front sizes . From what I've heard this is tend to run close to the outer wheel arch edge and may need a lot of negative camber /or stiffer springs/bumpstops to limit the tyre rubbing
I did a lot of measuring and testing before I committed to the 19" wheels on my T350C.
I ended up with Rear ET40 offset 9.5" width fitted with 255/35x19 PS4S, I think I could have gone 265/35 but that would have been a bit close to the diagonal rail.
Front I chose ET40 8.5" width with 225x35x19 PS4S, ideal offset is ET39 (historic info found from old PH posts regarding avoiding bumpsteer etc) but that may need more negative camber than factory -0.75 dependant on wheel arch /ride height when using 8.5" rims, not a problem if using narrower 8" widths.
My ride height isn't low, probably close to original factory settings and my rear can rub a little on full compression on wheel arch edge but it did that on factory spiders, so I think my body has thick rear wheel arch lips. I've heard its possible to trim that if the inside is filled with appropriate stuff (fibrefill?) but I didn't fancy trying that incase I got it wrong and split inner arch from outer wing
.
The body can also interfere around the front bottom edge of the front wheel arch and inside upper edge of rear but some cars have better clearance than others. At the rear there is a chassis rail that goes diagonally rearwards from outrigger to upper chassis rail, this limits the amount of inset/width (wheel&tyre) that can be fitted
I think Powers 19" "jade" wheels are ET38 9.5" rears , don't know the front sizes . From what I've heard this is tend to run close to the outer wheel arch edge and may need a lot of negative camber /or stiffer springs/bumpstops to limit the tyre rubbing
I did a lot of measuring and testing before I committed to the 19" wheels on my T350C.
I ended up with Rear ET40 offset 9.5" width fitted with 255/35x19 PS4S, I think I could have gone 265/35 but that would have been a bit close to the diagonal rail.
Front I chose ET40 8.5" width with 225x35x19 PS4S, ideal offset is ET39 (historic info found from old PH posts regarding avoiding bumpsteer etc) but that may need more negative camber than factory -0.75 dependant on wheel arch /ride height when using 8.5" rims, not a problem if using narrower 8" widths.
My ride height isn't low, probably close to original factory settings and my rear can rub a little on full compression on wheel arch edge but it did that on factory spiders, so I think my body has thick rear wheel arch lips. I've heard its possible to trim that if the inside is filled with appropriate stuff (fibrefill?) but I didn't fancy trying that incase I got it wrong and split inner arch from outer wing

Really insightful. Looks like thee isn't much wriggle room for error but it can be done then. Thanks so much for this. Helps me decide whether to do it or not and how much I need to tinker with it to get it set up right.
Once it's on, how do you find the ride and handling?
How much of it if any is compromised?
Once it's on, how do you find the ride and handling?
How much of it if any is compromised?
I've not noticed any compromise in ride comfort (of what there is) , but I suspect the PS4S tyres help a lot. I'd recommend a Geo check setup before swapping and get the cambers set to factory highest -ve for the rear (think that's about -1.5) and at least -1.0 front. And check that front rear toe settings are at suitable values (factory rear toe setting seems a safe /conservative value toe -in probably to reduce twitchy steering behaviour)
Edited by fredd1e on Thursday 7th September 16:07
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