Jagwire replacement - Newbie alert!
Discussion
I need to replace the derailleur cable housing on my son's Riprock 20, as it has split where it meets the cable tensioner on the derailleur, inner brake strands poking out everywhere! So what do I need to buy based on the spec below? and do I need any special tools to fit it? I have most tolls in the toolbox
- Jagwire Lex
- The housing runs in one piece from the derailleur to the revoshift
- The derailleur is a Tourney TX
Any help appreciated :-)
- Jagwire Lex
- The housing runs in one piece from the derailleur to the revoshift
- The derailleur is a Tourney TX
Any help appreciated :-)
Running_Man said:
I need to replace the derailleur cable housing on my son's Riprock 20, as it has split where it meets the cable tensioner on the derailleur, inner brake strands poking out everywhere! So what do I need to buy based on the spec below? and do I need any special tools to fit it? I have most tolls in the toolbox
- Jagwire Lex
- The housing runs in one piece from the derailleur to the revoshift
- The derailleur is a Tourney TX
Any help appreciated :-)
Firstly, just in case you're not aware of this (and saying it based on the bold above), brake and gear cables are NOT interchangeable. Brake cables only have to pull, whereas gear cables have to both push and pull, but with less effort required, so they are built differently, even if they might well look the same.- Jagwire Lex
- The housing runs in one piece from the derailleur to the revoshift
- The derailleur is a Tourney TX
Any help appreciated :-)
It´s a 7-speed kids MTB, brake housing will be fine if that´s all you have on hand.
You need a long length of (ideally) derailleur housing, Jagwire is nice stuff if you have it, and a derailleur cable, 2 ferrules (outer caps - you might be able to reuse the old ones) and an end crimp (or a dap of hot glue) to stop the cable end fraying.
Make sure the barrel adjusters on the lever and rear derailleur are wound all the way in (clockwise) before you bring the cable up to tension.
You need a long length of (ideally) derailleur housing, Jagwire is nice stuff if you have it, and a derailleur cable, 2 ferrules (outer caps - you might be able to reuse the old ones) and an end crimp (or a dap of hot glue) to stop the cable end fraying.
Make sure the barrel adjusters on the lever and rear derailleur are wound all the way in (clockwise) before you bring the cable up to tension.
Kermit power said:
Firstly, just in case you're not aware of this (and saying it based on the bold above), brake and gear cables are NOT interchangeable. Brake cables only have to pull, whereas gear cables have to both push and pull, but with less effort required, so they are built differently, even if they might well look the same.
What rubbish, gear cables do not push.Gear cables are thinner, have a smaller nipple, and the outer will probably be compressionless to help with indexing accuracy. You don't need to use Jagwire, other brands are available...
gazza285 said:
Kermit power said:
Firstly, just in case you're not aware of this (and saying it based on the bold above), brake and gear cables are NOT interchangeable. Brake cables only have to pull, whereas gear cables have to both push and pull, but with less effort required, so they are built differently, even if they might well look the same.
What rubbish, gear cables do not push.Gear cables are thinner, have a smaller nipple, and the outer will probably be compressionless to help with indexing accuracy. You don't need to use Jagwire, other brands are available...
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