Long distance mountain biking
Discussion
I know pretty much nothing about mountain bikes and I really could do with some help please.
For the record, I ride a size 56 road bike and am 6ft tall and 16 stone.
I would really like to start doing some cross country runs on a mountain bike, with my ultimate goal of doing something like the rat race coast to coast in the future. I live in Essex and it is really flat, so I do not need the kind of bike that can go up and down proper mountains. I am guessing that there are different setups.
What should I be looking at for a mountain bike that can cope with public footpath, bumpy and long grass runs and be comfortable to do the rat race in the future?
Would a 29er be better?
What is the equivalent of a 56 in mountain bike sizing?
Thanks in advance
Andy
For the record, I ride a size 56 road bike and am 6ft tall and 16 stone.
I would really like to start doing some cross country runs on a mountain bike, with my ultimate goal of doing something like the rat race coast to coast in the future. I live in Essex and it is really flat, so I do not need the kind of bike that can go up and down proper mountains. I am guessing that there are different setups.
What should I be looking at for a mountain bike that can cope with public footpath, bumpy and long grass runs and be comfortable to do the rat race in the future?
Would a 29er be better?
What is the equivalent of a 56 in mountain bike sizing?
Thanks in advance
Andy
For distances I'd go for a 29er.
I do some fairly big ride outs on mine. Hardtail, 100mm travel front forks, nice saddle. I'm 6'6" and ride a 21" frame which suits me to a tee.
Have done a number of 60+ mile rides including a 120 miler and the London 2 Brighton off road on it. Love it.
I do some fairly big ride outs on mine. Hardtail, 100mm travel front forks, nice saddle. I'm 6'6" and ride a 21" frame which suits me to a tee.
Have done a number of 60+ mile rides including a 120 miler and the London 2 Brighton off road on it. Love it.
Ive been on several off road 100 milers and if I did it all again I would go 27.5, lightweight full bouncer and with your height deffo go for 29er.
Hard tail killed my back and arse, my full bouncer was dead comfy but too heavy for a very long distance and Ill never, ever ride 100 miles off road on a cross bike again!!!
something like this
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/c...
Hard tail killed my back and arse, my full bouncer was dead comfy but too heavy for a very long distance and Ill never, ever ride 100 miles off road on a cross bike again!!!
something like this
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/c...
Something like this would be perfect, light, 29" wheels and 2x11 Shimano XT groupset. You would probably need a size 19" frame in Cube bikes, maybe a 21 depending on how you like to feel on a bike, may want to pop into a shop and try some. I ride an 18" cube and I am 5'10
https://www.bestbikeproducts.com/m1b42s2p6353/CUBE...
https://www.bestbikeproducts.com/m1b42s2p6353/CUBE...
Thank you for the tips guys.
Are modern bikes with front and rear suspension able to lock off the bounce for when you are on roads? I have been on my friends mountain bike and found I lost loads of power due to the rocking of the bike.
If so, I guess thats a better option as my back isnt in the best of condition and it doesn't take too much to upset it.
Are there any issues with a 2nd hand MB? I am guessing they take a lot more punishment than road bikes. My with thinks my Cervelo cost £500, lol. Not sure if I could get away with that lie twice.
Are modern bikes with front and rear suspension able to lock off the bounce for when you are on roads? I have been on my friends mountain bike and found I lost loads of power due to the rocking of the bike.
If so, I guess thats a better option as my back isnt in the best of condition and it doesn't take too much to upset it.
Are there any issues with a 2nd hand MB? I am guessing they take a lot more punishment than road bikes. My with thinks my Cervelo cost £500, lol. Not sure if I could get away with that lie twice.
Yes, both Fox and Rockshox produce lockout, either as a remote or as a crown lockout.
I have to admit, I prefer a remote lockout. On my old 26er Rebas, it did lock the forks out, on the new 29er Rebas it retains a little bounce but not that's noticeable.
I have to admit, I prefer a remote lockout. On my old 26er Rebas, it did lock the forks out, on the new 29er Rebas it retains a little bounce but not that's noticeable.
Edited by Celtic Dragon on Tuesday 14th March 21:45
Sounds like where you are right now, you don't need full sus, maybe not even front forks, but you will want at least forks for what you plan to do, and probably full suspension will make up what it loses in complexity/cost with comfort and trail ability.
I'm 6 foot and over 13 stone, I did the South Downs Way in a day in 2010 on a Specialised Hard Rock. I would go full sus if I did it again, second hand can be brilliant but you need to check it out and ride it beforehand.
I'm 6 foot and over 13 stone, I did the South Downs Way in a day in 2010 on a Specialised Hard Rock. I would go full sus if I did it again, second hand can be brilliant but you need to check it out and ride it beforehand.
Lower end rear shocks don't tend to have a lock out.Higher end dont either but for a different reason as they just have a firmer option so its not full lockout and that's to protect the internals. Some have full so you need to know your specs.
There is a lot of options for you here. If you are thinking Ratrace I think you will be on a different bike to the one you buy first if that's a year or so away.
First decision is budget. What do you want to spend then get the best bike for the money? You will get a lot of different opinions what is good and bad but its a start so let us know that first.
Sounds like you need a full suss but the budget will dictate which level to go for.
There is a lot of options for you here. If you are thinking Ratrace I think you will be on a different bike to the one you buy first if that's a year or so away.
First decision is budget. What do you want to spend then get the best bike for the money? You will get a lot of different opinions what is good and bad but its a start so let us know that first.
Sounds like you need a full suss but the budget will dictate which level to go for.
interstellar said:
Lower end rear shocks don't tend to have a lock out.Higher end dont either but for a different reason as they just have a firmer option so its not full lockout and that's to protect the internals. Some have full so you need to know your specs.
There is a lot of options for you here. If you are thinking Ratrace I think you will be on a different bike to the one you buy first if that's a year or so away.
First decision is budget. What do you want to spend then get the best bike for the money? You will get a lot of different opinions what is good and bad but its a start so let us know that first.
Sounds like you need a full suss but the budget will dictate which level to go for.
My budget would be up to around £1000. I dont want to go crazy like I did on my road bike as I dont know if I will actually like this. I have been looking on ebay and really quite like the look of the Giant Anthem X2 29er. It would seem I can get a 2013/2014 within my budget. There is a lot of options for you here. If you are thinking Ratrace I think you will be on a different bike to the one you buy first if that's a year or so away.
First decision is budget. What do you want to spend then get the best bike for the money? You will get a lot of different opinions what is good and bad but its a start so let us know that first.
Sounds like you need a full suss but the budget will dictate which level to go for.
andyb28 said:
My budget would be up to around £1000. I dont want to go crazy like I did on my road bike as I dont know if I will actually like this. I have been looking on ebay and really quite like the look of the Giant Anthem X2 29er. It would seem I can get a 2013/2014 within my budget.
Personally I wouldnt buy off ebay. You dont know what it needs doing to it. You are better off buying new as there are some good bikes around at that price.http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/best-mou...
Calibre and Boardman are great at this price range like the Team FS http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/mountain-bik...
I would also look at some 2016 bikes that will have been discounted.
At this pirce the rear shock wont lock out but the front will. All you need to do is pump up the rear shock to reduce movement. You have to set these bikes up properly before riding with setting sag etc with all your riding gear on to get suspension right. plenty of videos on youtube to set sag etc.
I'd recommend the Orange Clockwork http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Orange-Clockwork-120-27-5-...
I've got the Crush at the moment but for the rides you're planning to do the 120mm travel on the Clockwork is plenty, frame offers that bit of welcome flex to made it a bit more comfortable.
I've got the Crush at the moment but for the rides you're planning to do the 120mm travel on the Clockwork is plenty, frame offers that bit of welcome flex to made it a bit more comfortable.
If you want a full bounce, I'd look at Canyon Neuron bikes. I have last years Nerve AL 6.0 (27.5 wheels) which is identical to this years Neuron AL 7.0. I have done a few flat 100 mile rides on it and find it very comfy even with the stock saddle. It has 120mm rear and 130mm front travel with lockout on both ends. The energy loss thing can be minimised by using proper pedalling technique and clipless pedals (pedal in circles, not up and down). I think I've locked my suspension out 3 times in 8 months and always go back to bouncy. Make sure the damping and sag are correct and you won't go far wrong.
i'm going to throw lots of curve balls at you on this one...
up until this summer i would have suggested some sort of full sus 29'er - i've been riding one for about 4 years for rides around the chilterns on on rocky ground, roots, steep bits fast flat bits, done lots of alpine mtb stuff as well and thought full sus 29 was the only way to go.
then... this summer i put a pair of knobblies on my 'adventure' road bike and rode the same chilterns routes and in so doing had. the. most. fun. ever. it was brilliantly fast, an excellent climber because it was so light and most importantly i managed to upset all riders i went out with because i was consistently and considerably faster than them on all but the steepest descents. which weren't that many. for what you have described as wanting to do (and certainly looking at the rat race website) this would be the type of bike that would serve you best. stretch to a titanium frame for the most compliant ride.
as a result of my unpopularity brought about by high speed and alpha male prowess i did back down and bought a second hand 29er titanium hard tail of eBay for £850 with 100mm of travel. this in my mind is the best compromise between the two types of bike i.e. the full sus and the gravel.
the full sus takes a lot of energy away from the pedalling and will slow you down. the gravel bike, when you get up to speed 'glides' over paths and bridleways, but make sure you get your tyre pressure on the softer side of medium hard for the most comfortable ride. to mitigate against punctures i put in panaracer kevlar tape in the tyres. not one puncture all summer as a result. the hard tail sits somewhere in the middle but is still lots of fun, but not as fast as the adventure / gravel bike.
not sure where you are based but cannock chase on the 8th april has a bike test riding day. has all the bike you could want there to try on a variety of terrains. give it a go and good luck! let us know what you end up with.
bikes i am comparing for reference are yeti sb 95c (full sus), titus fireline (hardtail), kinesis atr tripster (adventure)
up until this summer i would have suggested some sort of full sus 29'er - i've been riding one for about 4 years for rides around the chilterns on on rocky ground, roots, steep bits fast flat bits, done lots of alpine mtb stuff as well and thought full sus 29 was the only way to go.
then... this summer i put a pair of knobblies on my 'adventure' road bike and rode the same chilterns routes and in so doing had. the. most. fun. ever. it was brilliantly fast, an excellent climber because it was so light and most importantly i managed to upset all riders i went out with because i was consistently and considerably faster than them on all but the steepest descents. which weren't that many. for what you have described as wanting to do (and certainly looking at the rat race website) this would be the type of bike that would serve you best. stretch to a titanium frame for the most compliant ride.
as a result of my unpopularity brought about by high speed and alpha male prowess i did back down and bought a second hand 29er titanium hard tail of eBay for £850 with 100mm of travel. this in my mind is the best compromise between the two types of bike i.e. the full sus and the gravel.
the full sus takes a lot of energy away from the pedalling and will slow you down. the gravel bike, when you get up to speed 'glides' over paths and bridleways, but make sure you get your tyre pressure on the softer side of medium hard for the most comfortable ride. to mitigate against punctures i put in panaracer kevlar tape in the tyres. not one puncture all summer as a result. the hard tail sits somewhere in the middle but is still lots of fun, but not as fast as the adventure / gravel bike.
not sure where you are based but cannock chase on the 8th april has a bike test riding day. has all the bike you could want there to try on a variety of terrains. give it a go and good luck! let us know what you end up with.
bikes i am comparing for reference are yeti sb 95c (full sus), titus fireline (hardtail), kinesis atr tripster (adventure)
Sounds like where you are right now, you don't need full sus, maybe not even front forks, but you will want at least forks for what you plan to do, and probably full suspension will make up what it loses in complexity/cost with comfort and trail ability.
I'm 6 foot and over 13 stone, I did the South Downs Way in a day in 2010 on a Specialised Hard Rock. I would go full sus if I did it again, second hand can be brilliant but you need to check it out and ride it beforehand.
I'm 6 foot and over 13 stone, I did the South Downs Way in a day in 2010 on a Specialised Hard Rock. I would go full sus if I did it again, second hand can be brilliant but you need to check it out and ride it beforehand.
On a related topic, I'm finding that I'm getting more and more pissed off with road bike riding. I have a full sus, roadie and a CX and love both CX and sus but road riding on typical roads is a hard uncomfortable war of attrition. I'm considering chopping in the roadie for a nice light XC hardtail as the solution to both commutes on trails and longer off road riding. Any experience of carbon on giant or trek frames, ideally 120mm out there? (Giant or trek cos of the lifetime frame warranty) Ideally under £2k?
Hell27 said:
On a related topic, I'm finding that I'm getting more and more pissed off with road bike riding. I have a full sus, roadie and a CX and love both CX and sus but road riding on typical roads is a hard uncomfortable war of attrition. I'm considering chopping in the roadie for a nice light XC hardtail as the solution to both commutes on trails and longer off road riding. Any experience of carbon on giant or trek frames, ideally 120mm out there? (Giant or trek cos of the lifetime frame warranty) Ideally under £2k?
My mate has a Giant XTC carbon bike, its pushing on 10/11 years old now and is still going strong even after the abuse he has given it lol.Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff