Foxguard Alarm Removal
Discussion
I know this has been discussed on here a few times before, but I have a failing Foxguard Alarm/Immobiliser system and would like to remove it and install something more reliable and modern.
I've investigated the Meta solutions with Carl Baker and £650 for a new system is simply not a realistic option on this car. I also like to resolve problems with tools, swearing and cups of tea not my cheque book.
Would a kind soul who knows how to bypass and reconnect the relevant wires to the module be able to PM me the wiring instructions? ...and yes I'm fully aware of the insurance implications. 
Thanks in advance!
I've investigated the Meta solutions with Carl Baker and £650 for a new system is simply not a realistic option on this car. I also like to resolve problems with tools, swearing and cups of tea not my cheque book.
Would a kind soul who knows how to bypass and reconnect the relevant wires to the module be able to PM me the wiring instructions? ...and yes I'm fully aware of the insurance implications. Thanks in advance!Edited by Fenderer on Tuesday 28th February 21:01
I asked the same question a while ago and got no response, probably as there is little information around regarding the wiring for obvious reasons.
If your useful with a multimeter you should be able to make sense of it in a few hours, i dont think whoever installed it will have took much care in disguising things.
There are plenty of alarm wiring diagrams online from the likes of cobra, take a look at these and you might get an idea of what is needed regarding power and immobiliser cuts.
If your useful with a multimeter you should be able to make sense of it in a few hours, i dont think whoever installed it will have took much care in disguising things.
There are plenty of alarm wiring diagrams online from the likes of cobra, take a look at these and you might get an idea of what is needed regarding power and immobiliser cuts.
Thanks, yes still surprised at the lack of response to be honest given I know from searching on here that loads of folks have ditched the immobiliser and fitted their own aftermarket systems. To be honest when the only solution that seems forthcoming is to ring a bloke who is going to try and flog you a £650 replacement that's all the motivation I need to find a cheaper way to fix the problem.
Like you say might have to just sit there with a multi-meter.
Like you say might have to just sit there with a multi-meter.
Early Chimaera cars had no immobiliser I believe. Cars after 1996 all have Meta alarms, which can still be replaced like for like. I replaced my faulty Meta immobiliser for £139.
There aren't many cars left with Foxguard systems or, it seems, many owners here on Pistonheads who know enough to bypass them. Meta systems however, there are loads of threads on! Helped me a lot searching and reading them.
There aren't many cars left with Foxguard systems or, it seems, many owners here on Pistonheads who know enough to bypass them. Meta systems however, there are loads of threads on! Helped me a lot searching and reading them.
Edited by ianwayne on Wednesday 1st March 22:24
Hi,
when I bought my TVR the Foxguard alarm had been ditched and fitted with an after market unit, however the alarm side was inoperative. I replaced it with the original TVR configured Foxguard unit (FG1TVR) as supplied by Bridgwater Electronics It made sense as the original alarm wiring is part of the car loom, the wiring plugs were still present although some wiring was cut and the price for complete unit with fobs and siren was very reasonable. TVR actually wired this correctly (unlike the meta unit) and by all accounts the Foxguard unit has a good reputation; apparently most defective units are not, its just that they have lost sync with the key fobs.
Bridgwater supplied me with a manual and wiring diagram, so I'm sure they should be able to supply you the same.
Without disclosing any sensitive info, the little 2 way plug is the siren, the 10 way plug wiring is for the central door locking and 1 immobiliser cut. The 14 way plug is every thing else, power, ignition switched power, earth, indicator outputs, LED output, microwave and door switch triggers, second immobiliser cut. Using the SH bible wiring diagram you should be able to determine what is what.
Just to add, my car battery went flat and I lost sync with one key fob, the manual explains how to resync a key fob along with other alarm unit functions that TVR never used or explained.
Hope this helps.
Ozstyle
when I bought my TVR the Foxguard alarm had been ditched and fitted with an after market unit, however the alarm side was inoperative. I replaced it with the original TVR configured Foxguard unit (FG1TVR) as supplied by Bridgwater Electronics It made sense as the original alarm wiring is part of the car loom, the wiring plugs were still present although some wiring was cut and the price for complete unit with fobs and siren was very reasonable. TVR actually wired this correctly (unlike the meta unit) and by all accounts the Foxguard unit has a good reputation; apparently most defective units are not, its just that they have lost sync with the key fobs.
Bridgwater supplied me with a manual and wiring diagram, so I'm sure they should be able to supply you the same.
Without disclosing any sensitive info, the little 2 way plug is the siren, the 10 way plug wiring is for the central door locking and 1 immobiliser cut. The 14 way plug is every thing else, power, ignition switched power, earth, indicator outputs, LED output, microwave and door switch triggers, second immobiliser cut. Using the SH bible wiring diagram you should be able to determine what is what.
Just to add, my car battery went flat and I lost sync with one key fob, the manual explains how to resync a key fob along with other alarm unit functions that TVR never used or explained.
Hope this helps.
Ozstyle
Ozstyle said:
Hi,
when I bought my TVR the Foxguard alarm had been ditched and fitted with an after market unit, however the alarm side was inoperative. I replaced it with the original TVR configured Foxguard unit (FG1TVR) as supplied by Bridgwater Electronics It made sense as the original alarm wiring is part of the car loom, the wiring plugs were still present although some wiring was cut and the price for complete unit with fobs and siren was very reasonable. TVR actually wired this correctly (unlike the meta unit) and by all accounts the Foxguard unit has a good reputation; apparently most defective units are not, its just that they have lost sync with the key fobs.
Bridgwater supplied me with a manual and wiring diagram, so I'm sure they should be able to supply you the same.
Without disclosing any sensitive info, the little 2 way plug is the siren, the 10 way plug wiring is for the central door locking and 1 immobiliser cut. The 14 way plug is every thing else, power, ignition switched power, earth, indicator outputs, LED output, microwave and door switch triggers, second immobiliser cut. Using the SH bible wiring diagram you should be able to determine what is what.
Just to add, my car battery went flat and I lost sync with one key fob, the manual explains how to resync a key fob along with other alarm unit functions that TVR never used or explained.
Hope this helps.
Ozstyle
Thanks Ozstyle this helps a lot!when I bought my TVR the Foxguard alarm had been ditched and fitted with an after market unit, however the alarm side was inoperative. I replaced it with the original TVR configured Foxguard unit (FG1TVR) as supplied by Bridgwater Electronics It made sense as the original alarm wiring is part of the car loom, the wiring plugs were still present although some wiring was cut and the price for complete unit with fobs and siren was very reasonable. TVR actually wired this correctly (unlike the meta unit) and by all accounts the Foxguard unit has a good reputation; apparently most defective units are not, its just that they have lost sync with the key fobs.
Bridgwater supplied me with a manual and wiring diagram, so I'm sure they should be able to supply you the same.
Without disclosing any sensitive info, the little 2 way plug is the siren, the 10 way plug wiring is for the central door locking and 1 immobiliser cut. The 14 way plug is every thing else, power, ignition switched power, earth, indicator outputs, LED output, microwave and door switch triggers, second immobiliser cut. Using the SH bible wiring diagram you should be able to determine what is what.
Just to add, my car battery went flat and I lost sync with one key fob, the manual explains how to resync a key fob along with other alarm unit functions that TVR never used or explained.
Hope this helps.
Ozstyle
Hi my first time post i have a Honda CRX VTEC 1990 I had an issue with my FG1 today not disarming the immobilizer as I hadn't started it for 6 months both batterys went flat car and key fob as it was said above Bridgwater Electronics https://www.bridgwater-electronics.co.uk/electroni... IS the closest thing to FOXGUARD that there is now (as Phillpot said) so I gave them a call on the off chance they could help me the chap on the phone was extremely helpful and talked me through reprogramming my fob with the immobilizer unit and in 5mins after a complicated process flicking switches unplugging wires shutting doors and turning ignition on and off she lives again 
I know my post isnt removal but you may not need to remove at all.
I know my post isnt removal but you may not need to remove at all.
Edited by sidextm on Thursday 16th August 16:27
Edited by sidextm on Thursday 16th August 16:29
Hi there. Bumping this old thread because I've finally had it with this original Foxguard alarm system and I need to rip it out....
I had 3 working remotes (yes 3!) a week ago and I went to start the car yesterday after a long lay up and the remote battery was flat. I fitted a new battery but the remote now won't unlock the car. Thinking I'll just live with it and make do with remaining 2... The fob in battery 2 died too. So I changed and guess what....That doesn't work either. So I'm basically down to 1 fob and now I'm too scared to drive the car for fear of being unable to disarm it...
The alarm system has to go...I don't care about the insurance implications... I'll put a secret kill switch somewhere.
Does anyone have any details of what wires need to be reinstated so I can get this thing ripped out.?
I had 3 working remotes (yes 3!) a week ago and I went to start the car yesterday after a long lay up and the remote battery was flat. I fitted a new battery but the remote now won't unlock the car. Thinking I'll just live with it and make do with remaining 2... The fob in battery 2 died too. So I changed and guess what....That doesn't work either. So I'm basically down to 1 fob and now I'm too scared to drive the car for fear of being unable to disarm it...
The alarm system has to go...I don't care about the insurance implications... I'll put a secret kill switch somewhere.
Does anyone have any details of what wires need to be reinstated so I can get this thing ripped out.?
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff