Stiff front shifter
Discussion
Went out for a 55 mile ride yesterday (bloody mild for December!!) and whilst it wasn't raining, the roads were absolutely soaked and the bike got filthy. I noticed my front shifter has become very stiff shifting from the small to big ring, and I'm suspecting it's just crud somewhere.
Now....if that's the case, it's either in the lever, on the mech, or where the cables enter/exit the frame. I tried cleaning the mech yesterday but it's still pretty stiff so I'm going to give it a thorough working over later. Plan on removing the chain to allow easier access, thoroughly degreasing the mech and working it in with a brush whilst shifting the lever to allow it to work in, cleaning everywhere around the cable entry/exit points with degreaser, spraying degreaser in/around the lever mechanism (use an evaporating degreaser so it'll dry easier), then thoroughly drying everything....lube the cables up with a wet chain lube, lube the mech up with Bilt Hamber Ferrosol (a very thin penetrating lubricant....like WD40 on steriods but also a lubricant) and also using that inside the shifter and working it in by shifting it from big/small ring.
Is there anything I'm missing, or doing incorrectly? I have watched the GCN video on cleaning the levers, but the mech isn't covered. I'm guessing it's better to use a very thin lube so it doesn't attract crud, and just clean and apply it more frequently? What sort of lube should I use for the cables? I've got something very thin (Ferrosol), as well as some dry or some wet chain lube, and finally some finish line "ceramic" grease.
Many thanks in advance....hoping to get this sorted this afternoon if I can!
Now....if that's the case, it's either in the lever, on the mech, or where the cables enter/exit the frame. I tried cleaning the mech yesterday but it's still pretty stiff so I'm going to give it a thorough working over later. Plan on removing the chain to allow easier access, thoroughly degreasing the mech and working it in with a brush whilst shifting the lever to allow it to work in, cleaning everywhere around the cable entry/exit points with degreaser, spraying degreaser in/around the lever mechanism (use an evaporating degreaser so it'll dry easier), then thoroughly drying everything....lube the cables up with a wet chain lube, lube the mech up with Bilt Hamber Ferrosol (a very thin penetrating lubricant....like WD40 on steriods but also a lubricant) and also using that inside the shifter and working it in by shifting it from big/small ring.
Is there anything I'm missing, or doing incorrectly? I have watched the GCN video on cleaning the levers, but the mech isn't covered. I'm guessing it's better to use a very thin lube so it doesn't attract crud, and just clean and apply it more frequently? What sort of lube should I use for the cables? I've got something very thin (Ferrosol), as well as some dry or some wet chain lube, and finally some finish line "ceramic" grease.
Many thanks in advance....hoping to get this sorted this afternoon if I can!
Hi Ross, that sounds like a plan.
The FD is in a position where it gets mullered by all sorts of road crud, as you know. I have successfully brought them back from the dead (completely seized) a couple of times. The trick seem to be work in degreaser, then wd-40 or similar, then light oil, all the time whilst waggling it between the pivot positions.
Back out the high and low limit screws first, too. That´ll help it move, once it gets moving. You´ll have to dial it in again when it´s back on the bike but that´s no biggie.
The only one I couldn´t revive was an old Shimano RSX that was *completely* rusted solid.
I would be surprised if it´s the shifter that´s the problem. Check the shifting action is nice and smooth, that the ratchet is engaging OK, by pulling on the cable with one hand and clicking the STI shifter with the other.
Good to hear you´re getting so many winter miles in - all health issues completely resolved, I hope? Apart from the mental health one that made you sell the e65? :-)
The FD is in a position where it gets mullered by all sorts of road crud, as you know. I have successfully brought them back from the dead (completely seized) a couple of times. The trick seem to be work in degreaser, then wd-40 or similar, then light oil, all the time whilst waggling it between the pivot positions.
Back out the high and low limit screws first, too. That´ll help it move, once it gets moving. You´ll have to dial it in again when it´s back on the bike but that´s no biggie.
The only one I couldn´t revive was an old Shimano RSX that was *completely* rusted solid.
I would be surprised if it´s the shifter that´s the problem. Check the shifting action is nice and smooth, that the ratchet is engaging OK, by pulling on the cable with one hand and clicking the STI shifter with the other.
Good to hear you´re getting so many winter miles in - all health issues completely resolved, I hope? Apart from the mental health one that made you sell the e65? :-)
Barchettaman said:
Good to hear you´re getting so many winter miles in - all health issues completely resolved, I hope? Apart from the mental health one that made you sell the e65? :-)
I'm not what I'd say "100% normal", but in the grand scheme of things I certainly can't complain. Overall it's been a fantastic end-result, all things considered.I miss the E65 quite a lot, but I do not regret the sale. The Corolla has proved to be a cracking run-about so far, I've already done 4000 faultless miles in it. It's saving me a fortune!
Cycling going well, I also serviced the freehub on my fulcrum wheels (cheapy set) yesterday and they seem to be spinning a bit more freely and quieter! I'm certainly no home-mechanic though, and I'm very reluctant to actually take the front mech off, as I know I'd f
k it up some how so I'll just clean it in-situ.I'd not lube cables personally. MTBs with exposed inners and mechs can handle a bit if wet so, shifters imho.
I'd just loosen off the cable and flush out the shifter internals liberally with GT85 whilst cycling the levers a few times. Hood back and through the access panel if there is one.
I'd just loosen off the cable and flush out the shifter internals liberally with GT85 whilst cycling the levers a few times. Hood back and through the access panel if there is one.
47p2 said:
Is it a Shimano 105-5700 10 speed by chance?
Yup.And yes, I've had the levers replaced (about 15 months ago) as the lever for the rear broke....and you can only buy in pairs.
The bike was serviced in June and the shifting was so smooth. I haven't done much outdoor riding as I've been injured or using the TT a lot instead, so haven't had to shift a great deal (Wahoo Kickr) and I'm pretty sure it was shifting a lot easier at the beginning of my ride yesterday, it's definitely a lot stiffer than it used to be. I'll do a TT session in the morning and take it to the LBS late morning and see what they say. I'm not urgent for it as I'm happy to use the Kickr for the time being, but I want it working how it should.
I'll let you know what the outcome is!
I'm not convinced it's the mech now, I've cleaned it up and it's looking very clean (if nothing else, doing all this has given my bike a good clean 
)
I went to LBS who can't look at it until Thursday....so I'll use the TT until then, drop it in Thursday before work and then pick it up either Thursday evening or even Friday.
)I went to LBS who can't look at it until Thursday....so I'll use the TT until then, drop it in Thursday before work and then pick it up either Thursday evening or even Friday.
frisbee said:
Stick it in the small ring and try to move the mech by hand. Even ones that look pretty clean can be seized up internally.
Ultimately they aren't that hard or expensive to replace.
Tried that, it moves fine (though not sure how stiff it should be normally). It's booked in to get looked at before next weekend. Hopefully won't cost too much. Ultimately they aren't that hard or expensive to replace.
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