exaust clamps

[william weir]

hi all has any one found an inexpencive suppler of y peice exaust clamps thay are far to expencive the ones on sites at the moment seen some on farming site and fitted to turbo intake pipes just broke mine tonight if no one can help i will look at other country ,s i have seen then in china factory on www

[jojackson4]

How have you broken it

[s p a c e m a n]

Don't know the size, think they've 4.25in from memory so just do an ebay search for a v band clamp after you measure one. Here's a stainless one for £13ish..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331729369141

[william weir]

hi thanks for your replyes now i know what thay are called good start i broke it trying to line up the two parts not knowing it was bolted under the engine that was holding it out of line tryd to bring it together ops snapd clamp

[Sardonicus]

http://rndmotorsport.co.uk/epages/950003929.sf/en_...

[taylormj4]

Hope this doesn't count as a thread hijack but what's the best way to refit these to get a good seal.
My Y piece doesn't seem to line up with the manifolds too well and even though I have hammered all the way round the clamps whilst gradually tightening them, they won't go over the Y-piece flanges properly and pull them together so I am leaking exhaust gases.

The gap is pretty small but it is leaking. Are people using exhaust paste on the joints ?

[Plan B]

I use silicon based exhaust sealant. Works a treat to take up that last half millimetre of gap. It remains flexible and comes apart very cleanly when switching back to cats come MOY time.

[s p a c e m a n]

Best way to fit the y piece in my opinion is to have the manifold bolts on the head loose, fit the y piece and then tighten the manifold bolts. The v clamps just hold the pieces together, you'll struggle to get even a half decent seal if you're having to use the clamp to pull them together.

[Alan461]

Agree with the above but just to add,
There's a step in the mating face of the manifolds and a rebate in the y piece,
they should fit together unless corrosion etc are causing a bad fit.
The manifolds on mine needed rust removing before the join would close.

[Sardonicus]

Dont use any kind of silicone sealer/RTV near pre oxygen sensor joints you will poison them and they dont recover

[TwinKam]

Sardonicus said:

Dont use any kind of silicone sealer/RTV near pre oxygen sensor joints you will poison them and they dont recover

Aye that, but there are silicon-free lambda-friendly sealants available specifically for this application.

[Sardonicus]

TwinKam said:

Aye that, but there are silicon-free lambda-friendly sealants available specifically for this application.

Yes I know Wurth is one of them and the poster didnt say that so thought I would save some grief for others seeing as not many on here are on the tools for a living however I am unfortunately

[N7GTX]

After refitting my stainless manifolds there was a decent size gap at the Y piece. In the end I had to use a ratchet strap to pull both manifolds inwards to get the clamps fitted. There was no sealant on the old original manifolds, none on the stainless after first fitting by Powers and none when I refitted them - no leaks

I used a strap similar to this one:

http://www.webexsupply.co.uk/shop/0-8-ton-double-j...

Edited by N7GTX on Monday 31st October 13:43

[taylormj4]

N7GTX said:

After refitting my stainless manifolds there was a decent size gap at the Y piece. In the end I had to use a ratchet strap to pull both manifolds inwards to get the clamps fitted. There was no sealant on the old original manifolds, none on the stainless after first fitting by Powers and none when I refitted them - no leaks

I used a strap similar to this one:

http://www.webexsupply.co.uk/shop/0-8-ton-double-j...

Edited by N7GTX on Monday 31st October 13:43

That's a huge lever at the end of twp long arms. Couldn't that cause the heads to crack ?

I was told to be carefull pulling exhaust pipes together under a Range Rover (the pipes from each bank) for similar reasons.

[Sardonicus]

taylormj4 said:

That's a huge lever at the end of twp long arms. Couldn't that cause the heads to crack ?

I was told to be carefull pulling exhaust pipes together under a Range Rover (the pipes from each bank) for similar reasons.

Far more likely to damage or strain the manifolds long term (yet to witness this however) than crack a cylinder head very very unlikely IMO

[mk1fan]

Sardonicus said:

TwinKam said:

Aye that, but there are silicon-free lambda-friendly sealants available specifically for this application.

Yes I know Wurth is one of them and the poster didnt say that so thought I would save some grief for others seeing as not many on here are on the tools for a living however I am unfortunately

How far away does it need to be? Or, how near is too near?

[Sardonicus]

mk1fan said:

How far away does it need to be? Or, how near is too near?

I wouldn't use standard/common RTV on any intake or exhaust system till fully cured 24 hrs minimum if the car is fitted with 02 sensors, I certainly dont use RTV on exhaust joints and it wont withstand exhaust temps anyway unless specifically for exhaust joints i.e

[mk1fan]

Bit confused now. That is a silicone based sealant in the picture. So how far away from the sensors does that need to be?

[Sardonicus]

mk1fan said:

Bit confused now. That is a silicone based sealant in the picture. So how far away from the sensors does that need to be?

Its sensor safe that one above so no problem RTV's the acidic strong odour ones are however a problem

[TwinKam]

Anywhere upstream is 'too close' for ordinary silicone sealant! But if it states 'sensor-safe' then it should be OK (depending on how much you trust the MoCo)