Running in RPM limit?
Discussion
Having the same thoughts myself as this will be my first new car and a keeper.
In the past I've rebuilt air cooled vw engines and more recently track Ducati engines. Things have changed vastly with modern manufacturing removing the need to 'run in' carefully due to tight spots.
All my research advises that you have 30 miles max to bed the rings in before they wear the honing off the bores. To achieve good bedding in you need to maximise gas pressure on the rings so lots of load at the max point not on the torque curve. Ie second gear 3k rpm foot to the floor will be ideal then lift out of the throttle by 4.5k. Certainly don't exceed 5k.
Then change the oil after 50 miles because it's now full of metal debris from the bore honing and rings. Run it as per normal road use for 1000 miles then change oil again. After that do what you like. But change oil every 6k instead of 10k in service book.
In the past I've rebuilt air cooled vw engines and more recently track Ducati engines. Things have changed vastly with modern manufacturing removing the need to 'run in' carefully due to tight spots.
All my research advises that you have 30 miles max to bed the rings in before they wear the honing off the bores. To achieve good bedding in you need to maximise gas pressure on the rings so lots of load at the max point not on the torque curve. Ie second gear 3k rpm foot to the floor will be ideal then lift out of the throttle by 4.5k. Certainly don't exceed 5k.
Then change the oil after 50 miles because it's now full of metal debris from the bore honing and rings. Run it as per normal road use for 1000 miles then change oil again. After that do what you like. But change oil every 6k instead of 10k in service book.
ducnick said:
Having the same thoughts myself as this will be my first new car and a keeper.
In the past I've rebuilt air cooled vw engines and more recently track Ducati engines. Things have changed vastly with modern manufacturing removing the need to 'run in' carefully due to tight spots.
All my research advises that you have 30 miles max to bed the rings in before they wear the honing off the bores. To achieve good bedding in you need to maximise gas pressure on the rings so lots of load at the max point not on the torque curve. Ie second gear 3k rpm foot to the floor will be ideal then lift out of the throttle by 4.5k. Certainly don't exceed 5k.
Then change the oil after 50 miles because it's now full of metal debris from the bore honing and rings. Run it as per normal road use for 1000 miles then change oil again. After that do what you like. But change oil every 6k instead of 10k in service book.
Good response cheers.In the past I've rebuilt air cooled vw engines and more recently track Ducati engines. Things have changed vastly with modern manufacturing removing the need to 'run in' carefully due to tight spots.
All my research advises that you have 30 miles max to bed the rings in before they wear the honing off the bores. To achieve good bedding in you need to maximise gas pressure on the rings so lots of load at the max point not on the torque curve. Ie second gear 3k rpm foot to the floor will be ideal then lift out of the throttle by 4.5k. Certainly don't exceed 5k.
Then change the oil after 50 miles because it's now full of metal debris from the bore honing and rings. Run it as per normal road use for 1000 miles then change oil again. After that do what you like. But change oil every 6k instead of 10k in service book.
I've been told it turns up with about 20-30 miles on it already and I'm sure they'll be handled carefully
The coyote engine has been bench ran, so many of the forums say.. Negating the need for a normal running in period.
However, it is prudent to keep the revs down for the first few hundred miles and ensure that you are using the rev range to a point. Not keeping at constant revs for prolonged periods (M way)
Better to exercise the rev range and go through the gears to loosen everything up. First oil change is advised at 10k+ miles, but mine was changed at 5k.
There are plenty of threads around on 6g and MCA, as us boys had their cars a over 1 year ago..
However, it is prudent to keep the revs down for the first few hundred miles and ensure that you are using the rev range to a point. Not keeping at constant revs for prolonged periods (M way)
Better to exercise the rev range and go through the gears to loosen everything up. First oil change is advised at 10k+ miles, but mine was changed at 5k.
There are plenty of threads around on 6g and MCA, as us boys had their cars a over 1 year ago..
bridgdav said:
The coyote engine has been bench ran, so many of the forums say.. Negating the need for a normal running in period.
However, it is prudent to keep the revs down for the first few hundred miles and ensure that you are using the rev range to a point. Not keeping at constant revs for prolonged periods (M way)
Better to exercise the rev range and go through the gears to loosen everything up. First oil change is advised at 10k+ miles, but mine was changed at 5k.
There are plenty of threads around on 6g and MCA, as us boys had their cars a over 1 year ago..
However, it is prudent to keep the revs down for the first few hundred miles and ensure that you are using the rev range to a point. Not keeping at constant revs for prolonged periods (M way)
Better to exercise the rev range and go through the gears to loosen everything up. First oil change is advised at 10k+ miles, but mine was changed at 5k.
There are plenty of threads around on 6g and MCA, as us boys had their cars a over 1 year ago..
For those that may need it.. Online US Spec Manual.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Cat...
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Cat...
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