Renault Clio 182 (Caged and stripped)
Discussion
Hi all.
I thought I would introduce myself (long time reader) and my current car.
This is Clio number 37 for me. I have been messing around with these since the late 90's, on road, drag strip and track.
I have done pretty much everything going modification wise with the 172/182 over the years - I am looking to put this 'knowledge' to some use lol.
So, this current 182 is a rolling shell at the moment, with the following specification:
11 point OMP weld in role cage
Fully stripped out
As much lightened as possible (doors & boot cut out, all brackets removed, scuttle panel etc)
Custom wiring
Carbon bonnet
Manual steering conversion
Ph1 172 OZ alloys
Fully Polybushed.
The aim of the car is to be a bit of fun and a moving advertisement for my business I run part time (www.sw-autos.uk)
I am breaking one of my spare 172's and the running gear is going in this one for the summer (So I can get out and use it - 2015 was the first year since I passed my test (1998) that I have not done a track day :-( ).
The plan will be installing a Seat Leon Cupra R engine. I have the engine but I wish to rebuild it before it goes in (It has uprated Rods as this is the 1.8T weak spot, but I want to freshen it before hand)
I will update closer to the time with that, for now it will have a lightly breathed on F4R engine, though I am very tempted to fit the RS2 inlet on (Myself and SJM Automotive are now the sole suppliers of the RS2) and have a play to see what figures we can get first (I think the best with an RS2 so far is around 206bhp)
Here are a few boring pictures - I have another 172 to sell and 2 to finish breaking but once this is done I hope to be moving quickly with getting it on the road (I do not have an exact time limit but I would like it ready for the April action Day at Castle Combe)





I thought I would introduce myself (long time reader) and my current car.
This is Clio number 37 for me. I have been messing around with these since the late 90's, on road, drag strip and track.
I have done pretty much everything going modification wise with the 172/182 over the years - I am looking to put this 'knowledge' to some use lol.
So, this current 182 is a rolling shell at the moment, with the following specification:
11 point OMP weld in role cage
Fully stripped out
As much lightened as possible (doors & boot cut out, all brackets removed, scuttle panel etc)
Custom wiring
Carbon bonnet
Manual steering conversion
Ph1 172 OZ alloys
Fully Polybushed.
The aim of the car is to be a bit of fun and a moving advertisement for my business I run part time (www.sw-autos.uk)
I am breaking one of my spare 172's and the running gear is going in this one for the summer (So I can get out and use it - 2015 was the first year since I passed my test (1998) that I have not done a track day :-( ).
The plan will be installing a Seat Leon Cupra R engine. I have the engine but I wish to rebuild it before it goes in (It has uprated Rods as this is the 1.8T weak spot, but I want to freshen it before hand)
I will update closer to the time with that, for now it will have a lightly breathed on F4R engine, though I am very tempted to fit the RS2 inlet on (Myself and SJM Automotive are now the sole suppliers of the RS2) and have a play to see what figures we can get first (I think the best with an RS2 so far is around 206bhp)
Here are a few boring pictures - I have another 172 to sell and 2 to finish breaking but once this is done I hope to be moving quickly with getting it on the road (I do not have an exact time limit but I would like it ready for the April action Day at Castle Combe)





Hi mate, they are not very easy.
There is no off the shelf parts you can buy so everything needs to be fabricated.
Some of the more complicated parts are:
Driveshafts (Need custom made with Renault outer and VW inner)
Engine mounts (You can modify the Renault ones but need a bit of thinking for the top right mount)
Wiring loom
ECU
Coolant and boost hoses (Obviously a mash-up of the two manufacturers)
I will be strengthening the subfame as the last one my friend did cracked the subfame on a weld, so there are areas that need looking at.
The driveshafts are quite unequal so you need to think about suspension geometry, ride height and wheel/tyre size to try to combat the torque steer, but they are good fun when done.
There is no off the shelf parts you can buy so everything needs to be fabricated.
Some of the more complicated parts are:
Driveshafts (Need custom made with Renault outer and VW inner)
Engine mounts (You can modify the Renault ones but need a bit of thinking for the top right mount)
Wiring loom
ECU
Coolant and boost hoses (Obviously a mash-up of the two manufacturers)
I will be strengthening the subfame as the last one my friend did cracked the subfame on a weld, so there are areas that need looking at.
The driveshafts are quite unequal so you need to think about suspension geometry, ride height and wheel/tyre size to try to combat the torque steer, but they are good fun when done.
I have a lot of friends with these - why don't you opt for the megane engine instead of going down the F4R route?
I own a GTR at the moment and thinking of getting one of these for trackdays - I have never done a trackday with my own car personally. How do they feel to drive going fully at it? I appreciate the massive power difference but wondered if you have owned similarly how powered cars and still enjoy the clio?
I own a GTR at the moment and thinking of getting one of these for trackdays - I have never done a trackday with my own car personally. How do they feel to drive going fully at it? I appreciate the massive power difference but wondered if you have owned similarly how powered cars and still enjoy the clio?
The megane is a good choice and can offer good power, but with the 6 speed box you have to make a small chassis adjustment to fit.
I also have a 20v engine which would save me having to spend the £800+ that the megane engines and gearboxes cost.
Plus I like being a little different
With regards to your other question, I have been fortunate to own and drive a large number of faster cars over the years, from Impreza's to AMG Mercs and I ALWAYS come back to a Clio!
They are fantastic fun and really good when set up. they may feel a little slow compared to the machinery you're used to, but strip one out and with a few breathing modifications and a good map you should see power at a genuine 175bhp for the 172 and around 185bhp for the 182 (The 172 and 182 was originally PS, so the 172 had 169ish bhp and the 182 had about 178 But i stress not many make their full power on sensible rolling roads - most 172's will be somewhere around 165-168bhp and 182 is 175-180 if you're lucky. There are plentry of over-reading rolling roads out there!)
Bear in mind with this power and lighter weight (You can get a 172/182 to around 900kg if you try - (I am aiming for 900kg even with my cage) performance is still pretty good - for example a 1/4 mile time would be low to mid 14's with a 0-100 time of around 14.5 - 15 seconds is possible (I know as I have done it)
It would be best to buy a Ph2 172 - this is the model made from 2001-2004 as they are by far the cheapest available and the most sold so readily availble.
Do not worry about the 182 - the few extra BHP comes from a different exhaust manifold but is not noticable in the car.
The real noticable difference if you get a good one or a bad one. For example timing - the timing is a very tough job and must be done with the correct tooling in the correct order - tippex is a NO. If you get it wrong, you will loose 25bhp.
I also have a 20v engine which would save me having to spend the £800+ that the megane engines and gearboxes cost.
Plus I like being a little different

With regards to your other question, I have been fortunate to own and drive a large number of faster cars over the years, from Impreza's to AMG Mercs and I ALWAYS come back to a Clio!
They are fantastic fun and really good when set up. they may feel a little slow compared to the machinery you're used to, but strip one out and with a few breathing modifications and a good map you should see power at a genuine 175bhp for the 172 and around 185bhp for the 182 (The 172 and 182 was originally PS, so the 172 had 169ish bhp and the 182 had about 178 But i stress not many make their full power on sensible rolling roads - most 172's will be somewhere around 165-168bhp and 182 is 175-180 if you're lucky. There are plentry of over-reading rolling roads out there!)
Bear in mind with this power and lighter weight (You can get a 172/182 to around 900kg if you try - (I am aiming for 900kg even with my cage) performance is still pretty good - for example a 1/4 mile time would be low to mid 14's with a 0-100 time of around 14.5 - 15 seconds is possible (I know as I have done it)
It would be best to buy a Ph2 172 - this is the model made from 2001-2004 as they are by far the cheapest available and the most sold so readily availble.
Do not worry about the 182 - the few extra BHP comes from a different exhaust manifold but is not noticable in the car.
The real noticable difference if you get a good one or a bad one. For example timing - the timing is a very tough job and must be done with the correct tooling in the correct order - tippex is a NO. If you get it wrong, you will loose 25bhp.
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respect.