French Track Hack (Clio 172)
Discussion
Right then. For a while I owned this:
Loved driving it, ended up at quite a decent spec, 330bhp, coilovers, Spec C interior etc, but it cost me a fortune as a daily. Plus it was too scary having the best part of £10,000 (total I'd put into it) on track. I couldn't push myself. The main thing was running costs though.
I then bought this. 335d, amazing daily.
Not really suited to track work though. And no matter how much I spent on tyres brakes and suspension it would still be automatic, diesel, and open diff'd.
I started fantasising about a track car I wasn't afraid of crashing. Also, if I wasn't spending £100 each time on trackday insurance I could go on almost twice as many trackdays!
Me and a friend had always joked about sharing an MG ZR, but he bought a caravan instead (as you do). I then started considering a Ford Puma 1.7, great cars but not best suited for track work as standard. I kept coming back to Renaultsport Clios, remembering how much my cousin liked his.
My old man was wanting his share of money out of the mini we joint owned, so that got sold and in its place in his garage was room for a track car...
So here it is! My 2003 Renault Clio 172!
It's a hilarious little car. Revs forever, more torque than I was expecting, great handling fun little machine.
I had a lot of Peugeots when I was younger including a tuned 306 D Turbo and a GTi6, and it's genuinely nice to get back into something rattly, French and with a big engine!
It's currently got an OMP wheel which will be getting swapped for my Personal Neo Grinta, it's lowered on springs with KYB shocks (firm but predictable ride), polybushed engine mounts; and what's more it hasn't been fitted with an aftermarket exhaust so the subtle rear hasn't been ruined!
Now I don't want people expecting an epic build thread with a full cage, carbon buckets, superchargers and limited slip diffs etc, as when I had the Subaru I was a little self conscious the car was a lot more capable than I was on track. Not saying the Clio isn't, but it's a little more humble. The last thing I want to do is turn up with all the gear and no idea. So this is going to be mainly driving - road trips and trackdays, and modifications to tidy it up and improve performance. But using quality parts. Already making a tough decision about the wheels I want being so damn heavy!
Anyways, here's to 2016 being full of track time!
Loved driving it, ended up at quite a decent spec, 330bhp, coilovers, Spec C interior etc, but it cost me a fortune as a daily. Plus it was too scary having the best part of £10,000 (total I'd put into it) on track. I couldn't push myself. The main thing was running costs though.
I then bought this. 335d, amazing daily.
Not really suited to track work though. And no matter how much I spent on tyres brakes and suspension it would still be automatic, diesel, and open diff'd.
I started fantasising about a track car I wasn't afraid of crashing. Also, if I wasn't spending £100 each time on trackday insurance I could go on almost twice as many trackdays!
Me and a friend had always joked about sharing an MG ZR, but he bought a caravan instead (as you do). I then started considering a Ford Puma 1.7, great cars but not best suited for track work as standard. I kept coming back to Renaultsport Clios, remembering how much my cousin liked his.
My old man was wanting his share of money out of the mini we joint owned, so that got sold and in its place in his garage was room for a track car...
So here it is! My 2003 Renault Clio 172!
It's a hilarious little car. Revs forever, more torque than I was expecting, great handling fun little machine.
I had a lot of Peugeots when I was younger including a tuned 306 D Turbo and a GTi6, and it's genuinely nice to get back into something rattly, French and with a big engine!
It's currently got an OMP wheel which will be getting swapped for my Personal Neo Grinta, it's lowered on springs with KYB shocks (firm but predictable ride), polybushed engine mounts; and what's more it hasn't been fitted with an aftermarket exhaust so the subtle rear hasn't been ruined!
Now I don't want people expecting an epic build thread with a full cage, carbon buckets, superchargers and limited slip diffs etc, as when I had the Subaru I was a little self conscious the car was a lot more capable than I was on track. Not saying the Clio isn't, but it's a little more humble. The last thing I want to do is turn up with all the gear and no idea. So this is going to be mainly driving - road trips and trackdays, and modifications to tidy it up and improve performance. But using quality parts. Already making a tough decision about the wheels I want being so damn heavy!
Anyways, here's to 2016 being full of track time!
Edited by Jim1985 on Tuesday 2nd February 16:39
It's like reading my own life! I had thought about one of these for a track b
h. Much the same reasons. Throwing £10000 into armco doesn't appeal to me either.
They are stupid cheap. It's something as you say you can push to the limit. It's so much cooler watching someone drive the wheels of a banger than trying not to scratch there expensive toy.
What's the plans? I'd thought about stripping one right out. A nice seat and harness. Remove air conditioning. Some cheap lightweight wheels and have fun.
Should be a right hoon!
h. Much the same reasons. Throwing £10000 into armco doesn't appeal to me either.They are stupid cheap. It's something as you say you can push to the limit. It's so much cooler watching someone drive the wheels of a banger than trying not to scratch there expensive toy.
What's the plans? I'd thought about stripping one right out. A nice seat and harness. Remove air conditioning. Some cheap lightweight wheels and have fun.
Should be a right hoon!
Good choice and seems to be a nice car.
Having owned an ph2 Clio 172, I'd say by far the best modifications for road and occasional track work are a) 15" lightweight wheels and b) a suspension refresh. You might also want to lower the drivers seat and steering column (info available on cliosport.net). And a Cup spoiler makes the rear more pleasing to the the eye, imo (comparison: http://bit.ly/1X04R0h).
PS In the UK these can be had for silly money. 1-1.5k GBP!? In mainland Europe a tidy ph2 172 will fetch around 2.2-3.8k GBP :' But then again, this is true for most cars, UK vs rest of Europe.
Having owned an ph2 Clio 172, I'd say by far the best modifications for road and occasional track work are a) 15" lightweight wheels and b) a suspension refresh. You might also want to lower the drivers seat and steering column (info available on cliosport.net). And a Cup spoiler makes the rear more pleasing to the the eye, imo (comparison: http://bit.ly/1X04R0h).
PS In the UK these can be had for silly money. 1-1.5k GBP!? In mainland Europe a tidy ph2 172 will fetch around 2.2-3.8k GBP :' But then again, this is true for most cars, UK vs rest of Europe.
chillbill said:
Good choice and seems to be a nice car.
Having owned an ph2 Clio 172, I'd say by far the best modifications for road and occasional track work are a) 15" lightweight wheels and b) a suspension refresh. You might also want to lower the drivers seat and steering column (info available on cliosport.net). And a Cup spoiler makes the rear more pleasing to the the eye, imo (comparison: http://bit.ly/1X04R0h).
PS In the UK these can be had for silly money. 1-1.5k GBP!? In mainland Europe a tidy ph2 172 will fetch around 2.2-3.8k GBP :' But then again, this is true for most cars, UK vs rest of Europe.
I've seen some as cheap as £800. You can get an acceptable one for beating on at the track for about £1000 and some nice ones at £2000. It's been a while since I've looked though so things might have changed.Having owned an ph2 Clio 172, I'd say by far the best modifications for road and occasional track work are a) 15" lightweight wheels and b) a suspension refresh. You might also want to lower the drivers seat and steering column (info available on cliosport.net). And a Cup spoiler makes the rear more pleasing to the the eye, imo (comparison: http://bit.ly/1X04R0h).
PS In the UK these can be had for silly money. 1-1.5k GBP!? In mainland Europe a tidy ph2 172 will fetch around 2.2-3.8k GBP :' But then again, this is true for most cars, UK vs rest of Europe.
This has got me wondering if I should do the same. It was my plan, though S2000's are nice....
Well I paid £1000 for this. I spent a few days sending off silly offers to buyers and offending them but one said yes! My plans are lightweight 15s and good tyres, but the tyres on at the minute are pretty good so I'm in no rush. A cup spoiler would be nice but I'm pretty sure they're expensive, and I'd rather drive it than buy things for it.
I'm already on Cliosport so will look up the steering column lowering.
How well do they hold up on track temperature wise? Would I need an oil temp gauge? What brake fluid is recommended?
I'm already on Cliosport so will look up the steering column lowering.
How well do they hold up on track temperature wise? Would I need an oil temp gauge? What brake fluid is recommended?
Good purchase mate 
If you need to know anything please feel free to drop me a message. I am now on my 37th 172/182 (I currently have 5) and have been messing around with them since the late 90's (Starting with Mk1 16v and Williams, then into 172's when they came out )
One thing which is a major point is the cambelt. It is due every 72k or 5 years. It is very important this is carried out by someone knows how to do it.
Tippex is a no-no. you must have the correct locking tools and know the procedure in doing it or the timing will be out. if the timing is out you will loose 25-30bhp. (I would say the majority of Clio 172 and 182s out there are probably not timed correctly - out of my 37 only 2 have been timed right)
Also the Aux belt must be changed every 36k - this is the whole kit also, not just the belt as they have an auto tensioner which seizes up and can make the aux belt come off - if this happens it can flip back and grab the cambelt - you can guess what this does!
I hope that is of some help and if I can help any more just ask
If you need to know anything please feel free to drop me a message. I am now on my 37th 172/182 (I currently have 5) and have been messing around with them since the late 90's (Starting with Mk1 16v and Williams, then into 172's when they came out )
One thing which is a major point is the cambelt. It is due every 72k or 5 years. It is very important this is carried out by someone knows how to do it.
Tippex is a no-no. you must have the correct locking tools and know the procedure in doing it or the timing will be out. if the timing is out you will loose 25-30bhp. (I would say the majority of Clio 172 and 182s out there are probably not timed correctly - out of my 37 only 2 have been timed right)
Also the Aux belt must be changed every 36k - this is the whole kit also, not just the belt as they have an auto tensioner which seizes up and can make the aux belt come off - if this happens it can flip back and grab the cambelt - you can guess what this does!
I hope that is of some help and if I can help any more just ask
Russ - thank you! Expect an email haha! I did a lot of research and hopefully bought with my eyes open and with an awareness of the belts issues. Whilst I've no experience of these cars, it feels similar to my cousins 182 did when he had it, also I had a 306 GTi6 and it fees similar, so maybe it is down on power... Who knows!
They do vary from car to car - i have seen two identical cars be over 10 bhp difference from eachother!
Another reason for this is the inlet manifolds are 2 piece and when in production Renault did not 'match' the two - it is very common to remove them and find the holes are completely different sizes!
The 172 cups and some early 182's had what is known as the RS manifolds - these have the letters RS in the lower section of the bottom manifold and were not fully matched but were definately better than the other ones.
Many companies will 'match' the inlets for you - if you are not going to a different inlet system such as the RS2 or throttle bodies, I would suggest getting your inlets matched as it normally adds a few bhp and smooths out the power delivery.
Ignore enlarging the throttle body - completely pointless as it is pleny large enough and offers no restrication (As an example a turbocharged 172/182 will run over 300bhp on the standard throttle body and also with our RS2 inlet we have seen over 200bhp on the standard body) The inlets offer more of a restriction that the throttle body ever will.
Any questions please feel free to ask
Another reason for this is the inlet manifolds are 2 piece and when in production Renault did not 'match' the two - it is very common to remove them and find the holes are completely different sizes!
The 172 cups and some early 182's had what is known as the RS manifolds - these have the letters RS in the lower section of the bottom manifold and were not fully matched but were definately better than the other ones.
Many companies will 'match' the inlets for you - if you are not going to a different inlet system such as the RS2 or throttle bodies, I would suggest getting your inlets matched as it normally adds a few bhp and smooths out the power delivery.
Ignore enlarging the throttle body - completely pointless as it is pleny large enough and offers no restrication (As an example a turbocharged 172/182 will run over 300bhp on the standard throttle body and also with our RS2 inlet we have seen over 200bhp on the standard body) The inlets offer more of a restriction that the throttle body ever will.
Any questions please feel free to ask
Reversing light is probably the sensor in the box - that would be my first point of call so start there.
The number plate light is normally a bulb holder failure - the way they sit in the bumper leaves them open for water ingress, so I would test the bulb in the unit (IE put power to the plug) and I expect it will not work.
If you need any help with any aftermarket parts or genuine Renault ones let me know, I can supply Renault parts normally up to about 40% off RRP and I can do deals on lots of aftermarket parts
The number plate light is normally a bulb holder failure - the way they sit in the bumper leaves them open for water ingress, so I would test the bulb in the unit (IE put power to the plug) and I expect it will not work.
If you need any help with any aftermarket parts or genuine Renault ones let me know, I can supply Renault parts normally up to about 40% off RRP and I can do deals on lots of aftermarket parts
I had an identical 172 to yours, changed the front pads for Ferodo 2500, brake fluid for ATE Super, springs and shocks for standard cup and fitted a Whiteline rear ARB. All in not much more than £300 on Ebay. Played on track with and without the ARB, you definitely want it on to tame the slight natural understeer.
Above setup handled brilliantly on track and stood up to a full day of abuse on the Bedford GT circuit. Really good car for it. You will be overtaken down the straights but won't be having any less fun than more shiney machines
Above setup handled brilliantly on track and stood up to a full day of abuse on the Bedford GT circuit. Really good car for it. You will be overtaken down the straights but won't be having any less fun than more shiney machines
Sounds great! I'll look into that. It currently has KYB 'adjust-a-gaz' dampers and unknown brand lowering springs.
Numberplate light is fixed! And also one reversing light works, so will probably just ignore that issue.
Had a few other people recommend ATE Super so think thats the way I'll be going.
Had a bit of a play last night, tried every product in my garage to try and sort out the cloudy, yellowed, faded headlights. Didn’t seem to be making much progress but compared to the other side it seemed an improvement. Will probably just use wet & dry next time! I’m doing it by hand, tempted to get the same place that polished my Impreza headlights to do it, but that costs money; whereas if I do it myself, it is free!
Think I need more practice applying the tape!
Gave it a bit of a wipe down now it’s in the garage (it’s been raining pretty much since I bought it, and when its been dry its been dirty), and the paintwork seems a lot better than I was expecting. With it being at the bottom end of 172 prices I expected the paint to be a foregone conclusion, but it seems alright!
Also managed to get my beautiful Personal wheel fitted (Personal is the modern side of the Nardi brand). The quality is so much better than the OMP one it replaced. That said the price was a lot more!
Numberplate light is fixed! And also one reversing light works, so will probably just ignore that issue.
Had a few other people recommend ATE Super so think thats the way I'll be going.
Had a bit of a play last night, tried every product in my garage to try and sort out the cloudy, yellowed, faded headlights. Didn’t seem to be making much progress but compared to the other side it seemed an improvement. Will probably just use wet & dry next time! I’m doing it by hand, tempted to get the same place that polished my Impreza headlights to do it, but that costs money; whereas if I do it myself, it is free!
Think I need more practice applying the tape!
Gave it a bit of a wipe down now it’s in the garage (it’s been raining pretty much since I bought it, and when its been dry its been dirty), and the paintwork seems a lot better than I was expecting. With it being at the bottom end of 172 prices I expected the paint to be a foregone conclusion, but it seems alright!
Also managed to get my beautiful Personal wheel fitted (Personal is the modern side of the Nardi brand). The quality is so much better than the OMP one it replaced. That said the price was a lot more!
Trophy Husband said:
I had a 172 cup from new in 2003 and tracked it at Anglesey on quite a few occasions (Short track). It was great fun and embarrassed quite a few more exotic/prepped cars. Great fun in the wet too although there were a few 20p/50p moments. You'll have a great time! Enjoy!
Love hillclimbing my 172 Cup in the wet Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff