Stans Crest Rims - Tyres difficult to get on?
Discussion
I know this has been asked before to some extent, but I am finding it difficult to get my tyres onto my Stans Crest Rims.
We were out NYD and I suffered a puncture, it took us (3 of us) almost an Hour to get going again, we couldn't work out what was being done wrong - we were getting the tyre as best as we could to sit in the centre of the rim, but when it came to the last bit of tyre it just wouldn't go, we just ended up chasing the last bit round the rim, we also broke 2 tyre levers in the process... on the day we put it down to be a cheaper form of a Nobby Nick tyre.
Yesterday, I decided to take the tube out and get it running tubeless again with a better grade tyre - it took me almost an hour again to get the new tyre on using the same method, in the past I have struggled in the same way but also had days when the tyres have almost fell on with no hassle - I thought I knew how to do this but it seems not...
Are Crest rims particularly bad for this or is it the same for all Tubeless wheels? Am I doing something fundamentally wrong, or is the colder weather not helping (rubber less flexible?).
I'm almost at the point of changing wheels....
We were out NYD and I suffered a puncture, it took us (3 of us) almost an Hour to get going again, we couldn't work out what was being done wrong - we were getting the tyre as best as we could to sit in the centre of the rim, but when it came to the last bit of tyre it just wouldn't go, we just ended up chasing the last bit round the rim, we also broke 2 tyre levers in the process... on the day we put it down to be a cheaper form of a Nobby Nick tyre.
Yesterday, I decided to take the tube out and get it running tubeless again with a better grade tyre - it took me almost an hour again to get the new tyre on using the same method, in the past I have struggled in the same way but also had days when the tyres have almost fell on with no hassle - I thought I knew how to do this but it seems not...
Are Crest rims particularly bad for this or is it the same for all Tubeless wheels? Am I doing something fundamentally wrong, or is the colder weather not helping (rubber less flexible?).
I'm almost at the point of changing wheels....
I think its a combination of the stans rims having quite a shallow centre dip and the beads on the tubless tyres being a bit stiffer than normal. I had a pair of stans wheels for a short time and they were very difficult to get the tyres onto. Sorry I know that's not a solution, but if it helps, you're not alone.
richardxjr said:
UST tyres by any chance? They can be a nightmare on Stans rims.
Otherwise, Stans are pretty tight but I've got crests and flows and can mount without levers. Always folding tyres, but a diverse mixture Maxxis (non UST), Specialized, OnOne (I don't use Schwalbe though).
Yes they are UST will the non ones still work as tubeless, not that I am too fussed about tubeless. I did try a continental tyre too and that was worse... Otherwise, Stans are pretty tight but I've got crests and flows and can mount without levers. Always folding tyres, but a diverse mixture Maxxis (non UST), Specialized, OnOne (I don't use Schwalbe though).
RGambo said:
I think its a combination of the stans rims having quite a shallow centre dip and the beads on the tubless tyres being a bit stiffer than normal. I had a pair of stans wheels for a short time and they were very difficult to get the tyres onto. Sorry I know that's not a solution, but if it helps, you're not alone.
Thanks - are most other rims better? I guess a rim swap would be cheaper than a wheel swap potentially... I have Pacenti SL23's also a tubeless rim running with GP4k's although I am looking at going tubeless with Schwable One's.
Not sure what you cross section is like but these are measuring 24mm across externally and 18mm internally.
They are very difficult to remove and remount, although I find that to remove I have to go around the whole tyre and break the bead on the rim and move the tyre into the centre of the rim, then two levers opposite the valve to remove.
To remount start opposite the value and put the tyre back on, it need plenty of pulling to ensure that any slack is pulled around toward the value, then when adjacent to the value either fingers or a couple of tyre levers to pop over the rim.
On Fulcrum 3's I could change a tube in less than 5 mins, when I first got the SL23's I destroyed two tubes and had to take the wheel to my LBS. (and then watching the mechanic use his palms to roll the tyre on in about 10's)!
I think it is down to practice, I managed only 2 flats last year. This year I will be removing tyres (to check them) and keep on top of the technique (unless I go tubeless).
Not sure what you cross section is like but these are measuring 24mm across externally and 18mm internally.
They are very difficult to remove and remount, although I find that to remove I have to go around the whole tyre and break the bead on the rim and move the tyre into the centre of the rim, then two levers opposite the valve to remove.
To remount start opposite the value and put the tyre back on, it need plenty of pulling to ensure that any slack is pulled around toward the value, then when adjacent to the value either fingers or a couple of tyre levers to pop over the rim.
On Fulcrum 3's I could change a tube in less than 5 mins, when I first got the SL23's I destroyed two tubes and had to take the wheel to my LBS. (and then watching the mechanic use his palms to roll the tyre on in about 10's)!
I think it is down to practice, I managed only 2 flats last year. This year I will be removing tyres (to check them) and keep on top of the technique (unless I go tubeless).
crests can be a total pain.
you need to make sure that the side of the tyre already mounted is pushed into the central 'well', otherwise you don't have a hope of getting the final side up and over the rim. this can make it a real pain if mounting them tubeless unless of course you have a compressor to force the side up and out of the 'well'.
you need to make sure that the side of the tyre already mounted is pushed into the central 'well', otherwise you don't have a hope of getting the final side up and over the rim. this can make it a real pain if mounting them tubeless unless of course you have a compressor to force the side up and out of the 'well'.
tjdixon911 said:
richardxjr said:
UST tyres by any chance? They can be a nightmare on Stans rims.
Otherwise, Stans are pretty tight but I've got crests and flows and can mount without levers. Always folding tyres, but a diverse mixture Maxxis (non UST), Specialized, OnOne (I don't use Schwalbe though).
Yes they are UST will the non ones still work as tubeless, not that I am too fussed about tubeless. I did try a continental tyre too and that was worse... Otherwise, Stans are pretty tight but I've got crests and flows and can mount without levers. Always folding tyres, but a diverse mixture Maxxis (non UST), Specialized, OnOne (I don't use Schwalbe though).
Conti, Schwalbe, I avoid for mtb tyres. The former are just rubbish unless expensive black chilli wotnot, the latter for paper sidewalls.
Persevere with tubeless! Lower pressures, more grip, lighter, oh and less punctures. No brainer.
richardxjr said:
tjdixon911 said:
richardxjr said:
UST tyres by any chance? They can be a nightmare on Stans rims.
Otherwise, Stans are pretty tight but I've got crests and flows and can mount without levers. Always folding tyres, but a diverse mixture Maxxis (non UST), Specialized, OnOne (I don't use Schwalbe though).
Yes they are UST will the non ones still work as tubeless, not that I am too fussed about tubeless. I did try a continental tyre too and that was worse... Otherwise, Stans are pretty tight but I've got crests and flows and can mount without levers. Always folding tyres, but a diverse mixture Maxxis (non UST), Specialized, OnOne (I don't use Schwalbe though).
Conti, Schwalbe, I avoid for mtb tyres. The former are just rubbish unless expensive black chilli wotnot, the latter for paper sidewalls.
Persevere with tubeless! Lower pressures, more grip, lighter, oh and less punctures. No brainer.
Hi,
I went out and got myself a Specialized Purgatory to try, got the old tyre off, renewed the tape, and installed the tyre in about 20minutes overall at the weekend, even inflated with a track pump - only problem is it seems to have a slow puncture but I can't find any sealant leaking - I thought it had sorted itself out after a ride on Sunday but had gone down when I looked yesterday - hoping another ride tonight will get the sealant moving and finally seal wherever the leak is.. Anyone else had this issue?
I went out and got myself a Specialized Purgatory to try, got the old tyre off, renewed the tape, and installed the tyre in about 20minutes overall at the weekend, even inflated with a track pump - only problem is it seems to have a slow puncture but I can't find any sealant leaking - I thought it had sorted itself out after a ride on Sunday but had gone down when I looked yesterday - hoping another ride tonight will get the sealant moving and finally seal wherever the leak is.. Anyone else had this issue?
Not unheard of for Spesh tyres to take a few rides to seal properly. But you did inflate to about 40psi to get the beads properly cracking in to the rims yes?
1. Ensure both the valve lockring and inner valve are nice and tightly screwed in. Fave place for sloooow leakage.
Still leaking?
2. Take wheel out, lay horizontal on a bucket etc overnight, reinflate if necessary then
turn over and lay on the other side for a day.
Still leaking?
3. Check for leakage in a sink, or spraying water/soap mix on the tyre, add more Stans, repeat (2)
1. Ensure both the valve lockring and inner valve are nice and tightly screwed in. Fave place for sloooow leakage.
Still leaking?
2. Take wheel out, lay horizontal on a bucket etc overnight, reinflate if necessary then
turn over and lay on the other side for a day.
Still leaking?
3. Check for leakage in a sink, or spraying water/soap mix on the tyre, add more Stans, repeat (2)
richardxjr said:
Not unheard of for Spesh tyres to take a few rides to seal properly. But you did inflate to about 40psi to get the beads properly cracking in to the rims yes?
1. Ensure both the valve lockring and inner valve are nice and tightly screwed in. Fave place for sloooow leakage.
Still leaking?
2. Take wheel out, lay horizontal on a bucket etc overnight, reinflate if necessary then
turn over and lay on the other side for a day.
Still leaking?
3. Check for leakage in a sink, or spraying water/soap mix on the tyre, add more Stans, repeat (2)
Yes, pumped them unto 40+psi, and have checked the valve for tightness - there was still about 10psi in it when I got it out this evening, pumped it up and it remained stable (no notable change) throughout the ride so hopefully its sealed - if not I will try nr2 - no chance of riding the bike for a while as the rear mech decided to mangle itself into the wheel - new hanger and mech required!1. Ensure both the valve lockring and inner valve are nice and tightly screwed in. Fave place for sloooow leakage.
Still leaking?
2. Take wheel out, lay horizontal on a bucket etc overnight, reinflate if necessary then
turn over and lay on the other side for a day.
Still leaking?
3. Check for leakage in a sink, or spraying water/soap mix on the tyre, add more Stans, repeat (2)
Edited by tjdixon911 on Tuesday 26th January 21:29
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-tl1c-tyre-levers...
I use these levers and have metal ones as a back up but the park ones have never failed to get a tyre on or off a rim including stans,which are hell of a tight
I use these levers and have metal ones as a back up but the park ones have never failed to get a tyre on or off a rim including stans,which are hell of a tight
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