Talk to me about Tudor

[LaurasOtherHalf]

I'm a novice when it comes to watches and although aware or Tudor's return to the uk market I don't know an awful lot about the brand.

Yesterday however, while the Mrs was inspecting the shops I had an hour or so so called into the Tudor AD to take a closer look. Currently I wear a datejust every day and have a Cellini as a dress watch when required for special nights out etc.

A sports watch however may just complete the collection! Previously I'd have put some work into purchasing a Daytona or Submariner but I tried on the Tudor Black Bay yesterday and it instinctively felt right-a good sign!

The salesman did however explain it used an ETA movement which I was surprised at and slightly disappointed by, he then showed me the Pegalos which has its own in house movement but both didn't feel right for me not looked particularly attractive. Will the in house movement spread across the range? Should it even bother me at this price point?

The particular black bay I liked;

Previously I tried on these as I considered s black watch to be something I'd like;



I really did like the look of both but felt that the leather strap wasn't something I'd like and the suede strap felt poorly made. I was sent away with a huge (and very nice) brochure gift wrapped up but thought I'd ask around here for some more in depth knowledge of what the watches were about.

[dxbtiger]

Did you try the North Flag?

[LaurasOtherHalf]

dxbtiger said:

Did you try the North Flag?

I was about to state no but having googled for an image I did indeed, if I remember correctly this also has the in house movement and the salesman was keen for me to try it-very much not to my personal taste however.

[nikaiyo2]

Why is an ETA movement a disappointment? It's not as though Rolex have never used bought in movements

Btw where was that shop? Was the 5 years 0% on the Tudors only or other brands also?

[thehawkswoops]

Been looking at a Pelegos myself but won't be a brand new one at 3k in the big jewelers in Leeds. Crono24 here I come.

As for the history of the the company all I know is they were linked with Rolex once. However that's all I know, must do my own research!

I think the Pelagos looks great plus the outer ring has fantastic lumination like the rest of the watch. Looks the Biz and the deployment clasp has a micro adjustment too. The doggies do da's for me :-)


Cheers
Mark

[huwp]

My first ever mechanical watch was a Tudor. Since then I've had 3 more; a Hydronaut, then a Chronograph and currently a Black Bay.

I wear the BB more than any of my other watches.

There are plenty of other manufacturers who charge more for (modified) ETA movements.

I do like the North Flag, not least because it has a date complication.

[LaurasOtherHalf]

nikaiyo2 said:

Why is an ETA movement a disappointment? It's not as though Rolex have never used bought in movements

Btw where was that shop? Was the 5 years 0% on the Tudors only or other brands also?

Good point on the movement, but it does matter I think. I can purchase I fine looking watch made up from generic manufactured parts for a couple of hundred pounds, if I'm paying thousands I rather pay for some genuine craftsmanship.

Then there's the small (perhaps internet waffle) chance of swatch restricting parts for those outside the authorised network.

It's quite nice to know that my oyster has such amazing quality that it's required only one repair (a loose crown wheel) and has had only one service in almost 20 years of ownership and both were carried out by unauthorised craftsmen at a fraction of the cost of a manufactures service.

The jewellers was Fraser & Hart in the metro center, I wasn't concerned with interest deals so didn't ask more about them but I have to say should you require any help, the bloke I dealt with was very helpful.

[GC8]

The majority of Swiss watches had an ETA movement of some sort up until a couple of years ago. Historically Tudors used a Rolex case (marked Rolex, unlike a Rolex) and an ETA movement.

My understanding is that their in-house movement will eventually be used in all watches, but ETA are still supplying at the moment, so theres no rush...

[lostkiwi]

Tudor are part of the Rolex group. This gives them access to the same case materials used by Rolex (BB for example is a case made by Rolex I believe).
The BB black is probably the best of the BBs in terms of retaining value.

[Variomatic]

LaurasOtherHalf said:

Then there's the small (perhaps internet waffle) chance of swatch restricting parts for those outside the authorised network.

Not small and not internet waffle. It happens as of 1st Jan. In fact, they've already stopped taking orders and are only fulfilling the ones they already have.

That said, Tudor are extremely unlikely to release parts for their in-house stuff either (although will in principle be able to support them in-house for longer than the ETA versions).

[LaurasOtherHalf]

Variomatic said:

LaurasOtherHalf said:

Then there's the small (perhaps internet waffle) chance of swatch restricting parts for those outside the authorised network.

Not small and not internet waffle. It happens as of 1st Jan. In fact, they've already stopped taking orders and are only fulfilling the ones they already have.

That said, Tudor are extremely unlikely to release parts for their in-house stuff either (although will in principle be able to support them in-house for longer than the ETA versions).

Many thanks for chiming in variomatic, I appreciate your insider knowledge. If you don't mind me asking, how does (or would) it all work and how would it differ from say Rolex? For instance, should a ETA watch require some parts to repair its movement in the future through fault what would a customer need to do?

How would this process be any different to a Rolex (or Tudor with in house movement) be different?

Ive always supported my local watch-smith and would prefer to continue to do so.

[AlexC1981]

LaurasOtherHalf said:

Good point on the movement, but it does matter I think. I can purchase I fine looking watch made up from generic manufactured parts for a couple of hundred pounds, if I'm paying thousands I rather pay for some genuine craftsmanship.

I know exactly what you mean, but at the same time I can point you to mechanical Russian and Japanese watches for £60 or so, made entirely in-house. Probably not quite the craftsmanship you're looking for. Tudor was conceived as the cheaper option to a Rolex, hence the historic use of bought-in movements.

[gvij]

Someone needs to make rugged automatic watches with quicker date and at least a partly handfinished case and movement for around 4 weeks average. The problem with the Swiss is they are trading on an ancient reputation but with nothing more than probably internationally made cnc machines and old brand names.
I like Rolex in that a few of their watches are absolute design classics. Tudor don't really fall into that or the first paragraph above so I'm not sure what they are trading on with their high prices. Omega were a great well packed and presented reasonably priced watch but no more.

Edited by gvij on Wednesday 30th December 08:29

[taaffy]

Interesting short film about Tudor watch history.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRtVy39XDWo

[Variomatic]

LaurasOtherHalf said:

Many thanks for chiming in variomatic, I appreciate your insider knowledge. If you don't mind me asking, how does (or would) it all work and how would it differ from say Rolex? For instance, should a ETA watch require some parts to repair its movement in the future through fault what would a customer need to do?

How would this process be any different to a Rolex (or Tudor with in house movement) be different?

Ive always supported my local watch-smith and would prefer to continue to do so.

Basically how it affects the future is that Swatch are attempting to position themselves in much the same way as Rolex etc, who all tend to restrict parts supply - in some cases despite various court rulings that should have stopped them.

For existing movements it's likely that makers of generic parts will take up some of the more usual requirements - they already do so for Rolex and ETA movements have a much larger user base.

Whether or not they will for the Tudor movements depends on a lot of factors such as potential market, demand (will owners accept after-market parts), and patents in place (most ETA movements are patent free by now).

For ETA movements there's also a reasonable stock of parts already in the supply line. They won't suddenly become unavailable on Friday but prices will rise as stocks fall. The new stem I need for a 7733 chrono is listed at around £20 + VAT because there aren't many left - 10 years ago you would have bought them in packs of 3 for about a fiver per pack. Most individual ETA parts (stems, wheels, even screws) have already more or less doubled in the past couple of years since this has been on the horizon and that will only get worse.

One thing to bear in mind is that, thanks to modern manufacturing, in many cases generic parts are of indistinguishable quality to originals. If you have good cnc machines and accurate dimensions to work to (from original parts) then there's little in a watch that's any real challenge to make! Whether any companies really take up that opportunity is yet to be seen.

[nikaiyo2]

LaurasOtherHalf said:

The jewellers was Fraser & Hart in the metro center, I wasn't concerned with interest deals so didn't ask more about them but I have to say should you require any help, the bloke I dealt with was very helpful.

Hahaha typical, was just up with my dad in Allenheads then Gateshead!, back south now!

[Gogoplata]

thehawkswoops said:

Been looking at a Pelegos myself but won't be a brand new one at 3k in the big jewelers in Leeds. Crono24 here I come.

As for the history of the the company all I know is they were linked with Rolex once. However that's all I know, must do my own research!

I think the Pelagos looks great plus the outer ring has fantastic lumination like the rest of the watch. Looks the Biz and the deployment clasp has a micro adjustment too. The doggies do da's for me :-)


Cheers
Mark

There was a dealer on Commercial St that had a month old 2nd hand 2015 Pelagos for about £2600 the other week when I was in Leeds iirc. I've recently picked up one myself and absolutely love it. The lume is fantastic, and I had every intention of sticking it on a NATO as I usually don't like bracelets, but I've kept it on the bracelet as it is so comfortable due to the micro adjustment.

[Quickmoose]

Went with a Grantour flyback....couldn't resist
Having it in stock locally was a clincher...

[crispyshark]

Quick Summary:

Tudor – Owned by the Rolex Group
Movement – ETA however it’s not just bunged into a ‘Rolex’ case. With watches like the Pelagos there are improvements made in house and anti-shock systems added (happy to defer to one of our resident Horologists here). I believe Tudor are working on their own movement going forward.
Other interesting fact (and I believed this to be true at time I was given mine), the Pelagos is the only Titanium watch made by the Rolex Group.

My own experience of Tudor has been very, very good. Cracking tool watch and lots of admiration from various people I meet.

I’m not so keen on their chronographs as they look a bit too trendy for me. Any of their diving watches are great and the Pelagos is hard to beat in its price field.

[GC8]

Their own movement has been available for a while. Also, the ETA or Valjoux calibres were bunged into a Rolex case, although that stopped years ago.