Sintered, semi-metallic, metallic? Which pads?

[megaphone]

I have Hayes disc brakes, need some new pads, any recommendations? I've previously had a set that squealed, especially when cold, but don't know which type they where.

Or any other recommendations for Hayes Stroker Trail pads. Mainly use on tracks and through woods, can get a bit muddy and wet.

[daddy cool]

Basically, Resin are cheap, and give the best outright braking performance. In dry conditions they will last well, but in wet/muddy/gritty conditions wont last long (I have killed a set in 1-2 rides)

Metallic last well in wet/mud/grit, though outright performance slightly reduced in dry rides, and as you have discovered, can squeal (though usually a couple of big emergency stops can fix that)

A decent compromise (across winter months) could be resin front/metallic rear, assuming (as I do) you mostly brake with the rear.

[dudleybloke]

Kevlar.

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/kevlar-disc-...

[Gren]

dudleybloke said:

Kevlar.

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/kevlar-disc-...

Have these on both my bikes and they last me ages. Mud around here is pretty easy on brakes but a year can pass and they are nowhere near worn. Performance is pretty good too

[CoolC]

dudleybloke said:

Kevlar.

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/kevlar-disc-...

^^^^

[NCC]

CoolC said:

dudleybloke said:

Kevlar.

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/kevlar-disc-...

^^^^

+1. My pad of choice for everything from XC bridleways to Alpine descents. They even cope with Calderdale and Peaks grit pretty well.

[Rolls]

Sintered here.. They're noisy, but the last...and last... And last... And as tgeyre on the commute bike that's most important to me.. If I wanted max power or feel, go for organic!

[timnoyce]

daddy cool said:

A decent compromise (across winter months) could be resin front/metallic rear, assuming (as I do) you mostly brake with the rear.

Really?! I would suggest that the majority of the braking gets done with the front, unless you go round doing skiddies everywhere.

[daddy cool]

timnoyce said:

Really?! I would suggest that the majority of the braking gets done with the front, unless you go round doing skiddies everywhere.

Im capable of applying sufficient braking force to slow down without locking up

[uncinqsix]

dudleybloke said:

Kevlar.

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/kevlar-disc-...

I have the Discobrakes Kevlar on the commuter at the moment. Seem pretty good so far - they're the only ones I've come across that are quiet in the wet and the dry, and they perform well.

[Herman Toothrot]

daddy cool said:

timnoyce said:

Really?! I would suggest that the majority of the braking gets done with the front, unless you go round doing skiddies everywhere.

Im capable of applying sufficient braking force to slow down without locking up

Agreed, rear modulated can scrub just enough speed to keep speed under control and keep the front end free to grip and steer. Remember many years ago reading a Steve Pete interview and he said people's biggest failure to going fast was the idea you charge up to everything then slam on the brakes when you should be modulating your speed in advance of obstacles so you go round / over / through them at max pace, you can't do that coming off a hard front brake stop.

[timnoyce]

Agree to disagree, but I kind of understand what you are suggesting.

Do you run a larger disc on the rear, to cope with the additional braking force?

[daddy cool]

timnoyce said:

Agree to disagree, but I kind of understand what you are suggesting.

Do you run a larger disc on the rear, to cope with the additional braking force?

Dunno about Herman, but i dont - i have same size discs front and rear, but then i mostly do XC, rather than downhill. And im not sure favouring the rear causes/requires more "force". At most, a bigger disc would only be needed to increase heat dissipation, which again isnt something ive had issue with (yet).

[timnoyce]

Now I am in no way posting this as FACT, but this has always been my understanding of braking forces applied.

http://www.arcalifornia.org/getting-started-new/st...

[Mr Gearchange]

NCC said:

CoolC said:

dudleybloke said:

Kevlar.

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/kevlar-disc-...

^^^^

+1. My pad of choice for everything from XC bridleways to Alpine descents. They even cope with Calderdale and Peaks grit pretty well.

Strange - I ran some SS Kevlar Pads for DH riding and they were utter crap.
OK in the dry - but as soon as they got wet my braking distances increased dramatically - and then they fell to bits, literally there was chunks of the pad coming off. Went straight in the bin and the sintereds went back on

[Herman Toothrot]

Anyway regards pad choice sintered Goodridge for me, never found better - tried other cheaper pads people suggest to find they are utter crap.

[jimmyVX]

To add another in the mix, I'm a big fan of these Uberbike Race Matrix pads....

http://www.uberbikecomponents.com/category/426/Vie...

[cirian75]

what would you use to replace the shimano b01s resin pads?

I remember 10 year ago my sintered Magura Julies way out lasting my resin padded mates bikes.

[PDP76]

cirian75 said:

what would you use to replace the shimano b01s resin pads?

I remember 10 year ago my sintered Magura Julies way out lasting my resin padded mates bikes.

If this is for the new cube, check the discs. They might have use resin pads only stamped on. Swapping the pads, might mean a disc swap too.

[Herman Toothrot]

PDP76 said:

If this is for the new cube, check the discs. They might have use resin pads only stamped on. Swapping the pads, might mean a disc swap too.

Thats advise i've ignored since disc brakes came out (still doing so my XT rotors say the same; sintered pads in Zee caliper works great), no ill effects.