Engine preheaters
Discussion
Tried this on Radicals to reduce the engine run hours. Used both oil pre-heater and coolant pre-heater. I'm not convinced of it being that worthwhile in a road car. Even getting the oil warmer in the DS tank, it just gets cool again when you circulate.
If you are running a wet sump system it might be of some use as you are heating the bottom of the engine and the heat would permeate up through the sump and block. If you could circulate the oil with an electric pump at the same time it might be good, but that just seems like too much faff to me.
Bert
If you are running a wet sump system it might be of some use as you are heating the bottom of the engine and the heat would permeate up through the sump and block. If you could circulate the oil with an electric pump at the same time it might be good, but that just seems like too much faff to me.
Bert
Thanks, it sounds like jury is out then.
I noticed this, which seems to be a heating pad for the oil: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/engine-pr...
....and this which is inserted in to the coolant system: http://www.enginepreheater.co.uk
I'm only interested in helping the car start in the mornings in the Scottish winters. You don't think either would make any difference?
I have a dry sump.
I noticed this, which seems to be a heating pad for the oil: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/engine-pr...
....and this which is inserted in to the coolant system: http://www.enginepreheater.co.uk
I'm only interested in helping the car start in the mornings in the Scottish winters. You don't think either would make any difference?
I have a dry sump.
Knowing how cold it can get in Aberdeen, I would say anything that raises the block temperature will help reduce cranking resistance and help starting. But I also agree with BertBert that on a road car, if it starts, then there's little to be gained. Race engines are another matter - warm oil is desirable, if only to stop the filter element being by-passed.
Well it's not the best starter first thing in the morning anyway and if it rains or its cold that makes things worse. I have started leaving longer between turning off the immobiliser and trying to start the car and that seems to help.
I had a blocked fuel pump filter last winter and put the car to a Lotus specialist who tweaked the map to our climate up here more, but still not great at times first thing. It's fine after the first switch on. I'd probably stick it back to him for another look but it's 90 mins or so away and the local garages were singularly useless when I couldn't get the car started at all last winter.
Got a brand new battery and car will always start if I connect up wife's golf battery. May be one of these instead then: http://www.amazon.co.uk/NOCO-UltraSafe-GB30-Starte... ?
I would like something in place before winter hits, it really was a pain at times last winter.
I had a blocked fuel pump filter last winter and put the car to a Lotus specialist who tweaked the map to our climate up here more, but still not great at times first thing. It's fine after the first switch on. I'd probably stick it back to him for another look but it's 90 mins or so away and the local garages were singularly useless when I couldn't get the car started at all last winter.
Got a brand new battery and car will always start if I connect up wife's golf battery. May be one of these instead then: http://www.amazon.co.uk/NOCO-UltraSafe-GB30-Starte... ?
I would like something in place before winter hits, it really was a pain at times last winter.
Banner battery, R400 engine and a MBE ECU.
Here's a picture of the ECU:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nqkxyqy7g6ckpn1/2015-07-...
Here's a picture of the ECU:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nqkxyqy7g6ckpn1/2015-07-...
Ok...
As a Canadian...
I'd guess the first thing, and perhaps only thing, that would effect you, unless it does hit -40C in your area, is the battery. A cold battery, especially a small one that doesn't have a lot of mass, will make the biggest difference to starting, even before it gets really cold.
I'm running a 800 CCA gel battery on my Subie, and cranking still slows way down at -25. When my battery gets old, even -12 can slow it down. If it's warm again the next day, it's fine. A battery warmer can do wonders.
So I'd start with you seeing if there was any plug-in battery warmers to try. They are like little mini electric blankets. If not, then see if you can squeeze in a bigger battery for the winter. I went to a boot mounted big battery in my caterham because I'm running a high compression 2 litre engine, with a tiny flywheel. I have to spin the thing like crazy to get it to catch. A little battery could only give it three or four tries.
Cold coolant shouldn't have any effect on starting. The big thing with it is cracking the block if it freezes.
Cold oil is harder to pump, and harder on the bearings, but shouldn't have much effect regarding starting. Wear is another thing. Modern fancy oils are amazing at the temperature range they can flow at, but cold oil isn't the best thing for a tuned engine. Hot oil would help with reducing warm up times, but not much else.
Man, I remember driving from Jasper to Banff, and I had the whole radiator covered with cardboard to block air flow, and it was about -45 with snow blowing sideways and 18 wheelers in the ditch, and I could only get the heater to put out air warmed to ~ 6 degrees, lol.
As a Canadian...
I'd guess the first thing, and perhaps only thing, that would effect you, unless it does hit -40C in your area, is the battery. A cold battery, especially a small one that doesn't have a lot of mass, will make the biggest difference to starting, even before it gets really cold.
I'm running a 800 CCA gel battery on my Subie, and cranking still slows way down at -25. When my battery gets old, even -12 can slow it down. If it's warm again the next day, it's fine. A battery warmer can do wonders.
So I'd start with you seeing if there was any plug-in battery warmers to try. They are like little mini electric blankets. If not, then see if you can squeeze in a bigger battery for the winter. I went to a boot mounted big battery in my caterham because I'm running a high compression 2 litre engine, with a tiny flywheel. I have to spin the thing like crazy to get it to catch. A little battery could only give it three or four tries.
Cold coolant shouldn't have any effect on starting. The big thing with it is cracking the block if it freezes.
Cold oil is harder to pump, and harder on the bearings, but shouldn't have much effect regarding starting. Wear is another thing. Modern fancy oils are amazing at the temperature range they can flow at, but cold oil isn't the best thing for a tuned engine. Hot oil would help with reducing warm up times, but not much else.
Man, I remember driving from Jasper to Banff, and I had the whole radiator covered with cardboard to block air flow, and it was about -45 with snow blowing sideways and 18 wheelers in the ditch, and I could only get the heater to put out air warmed to ~ 6 degrees, lol.
Canuck7 said:
Ok...
I'd guess the first thing, and perhaps only thing, that would effect you, unless it does hit -40C in your area, is the battery. A cold battery, especially a small one that doesn't have a lot of mass, will make the biggest difference to starting, even before it gets really cold.
I'm running a 800 CCA gel battery on my Subie, and cranking still slows way down at -25. When my battery gets old, even -12 can slow it down. If it's warm again the next day, it's fine. A battery warmer can do wonders.
So I'd start with you seeing if there was any plug-in battery warmers to try. They are like little mini electric blankets. If not, then see if you can squeeze in a bigger battery for the winter. I went to a boot mounted big battery in my caterham because I'm running a high compression 2 litre engine, with a tiny flywheel. I have to spin the thing like crazy to get it to catch. A little battery could only give it three or four tries.
Cold coolant shouldn't have any effect on starting. The big thing with it is cracking the block if it freezes.
Cold oil is harder to pump, and harder on the bearings, but shouldn't have much effect regarding starting. Wear is another thing. Modern fancy oils are amazing at the temperature range they can flow at, but cold oil isn't the best thing for a tuned engine. Hot oil would help with reducing warm up times, but not much else.
It's also worth checking the voltage drop over your starting circuit. Any resistance in the cables will result in less current getting to your starter. Adding current from a battery with a high CCA suggests that either your battery is goosed or the cables delivering whatever current it can deliver are past their best. Also check you have good earth straps.I'd guess the first thing, and perhaps only thing, that would effect you, unless it does hit -40C in your area, is the battery. A cold battery, especially a small one that doesn't have a lot of mass, will make the biggest difference to starting, even before it gets really cold.
I'm running a 800 CCA gel battery on my Subie, and cranking still slows way down at -25. When my battery gets old, even -12 can slow it down. If it's warm again the next day, it's fine. A battery warmer can do wonders.
So I'd start with you seeing if there was any plug-in battery warmers to try. They are like little mini electric blankets. If not, then see if you can squeeze in a bigger battery for the winter. I went to a boot mounted big battery in my caterham because I'm running a high compression 2 litre engine, with a tiny flywheel. I have to spin the thing like crazy to get it to catch. A little battery could only give it three or four tries.
Cold coolant shouldn't have any effect on starting. The big thing with it is cracking the block if it freezes.
Cold oil is harder to pump, and harder on the bearings, but shouldn't have much effect regarding starting. Wear is another thing. Modern fancy oils are amazing at the temperature range they can flow at, but cold oil isn't the best thing for a tuned engine. Hot oil would help with reducing warm up times, but not much else.
It may also be worth checking your cranking ignition settings. If you are able to reduce the advance, or even retard the timing a small amount for cranking, this will massively assist in starting.
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