Re-conditiong Cooper S cailpers

[vrooom]

What i need to do? i got myself cooper S cailpers, hubs, driveshafts, flanges.

I needed to recondition those.

I got myself a seal kits. but someone say i need get smaller rubber that goes between half of cailpers?

also how do you remove the piston away from cailpers?

im happy. as i got bit of baragin. £130 for lots. i hope everything goes good.

Is there any guides online that tells you how to re-condition the cailpers. (i dont wanna screw things up)

Also is EBC green stuff for 7.5" any good? im impressed with mine on 8.4"

Jay

[love machine]

Greenstuff are great. You can use a greasegun to prize them apart. Make an adaptor and off you go. Failing that, the way I did it was to fill the calliper with fluid and then use bolts to block 3/4 of the holes Screw in big nut, unscrew refill and do it like that. Takes ages, when you have got one side out, use a big G clamp to blow the other side out.

Grease gun rules though.

Can get about 150 Bar out of one, I heard. Get them shotblasted and painted with barbecue paint.

[Cooperman]

Have a good look at the small rubber seals. They may be OK although it really is best to change them just to be able to know you've done the job properly.
I normally get the pistons out using compressed air - never tried using a grease gun, don't like the idea of grease near the brakes, I guess.
GreenStuff pads are OK for road use, but not much good for competition applications. For competition use the Carbon-Metallic ones Mini Spares sell. I find them just great - the best pads i've ever used. They work at relatively low temperatures as well and last a long time. I was told they would wear the discs quickly, but that has just not happened in several long rallies.
Standard brake fluid is also OK for hard road use, but for competition use the AP600 Racing Fluid - you won't boil that as you can DOT4.
Use Aeroquip hoses as well. Not expensive and well worth while.

[vrooom]

Im going to replace the hoses to braided hoses. and i was in 2 mind to get carbon metallic pad. they are bit pricey. but you just conviced me.
They stop well in cold, that what i want.
That is the thing that EBC green stuff missing.

what disc shall i use? grooved disc or just plain standard disc.

never skip the work or cost on brakes.

I just ordered new 4 of 7.5" stainless steel pistons, and inner seals, also rubber o rings that goes over piston.

Thank you

[Cooperman]

With C-M pads the standard plain disc is fine. That's what I use on my red car and the brakes are fabulous. What I like with the C-M pads is that once slightly warm they are very progresive and, even with the servo, the pedal pressure is always progressive. In fact it's quite easy to hold the brakes on hard just below the point of locking.
I use the Mk 3 Cooper 'S' servo and have this piped in with long aeroquip hoses rather than the standard metal pipe type. This enables me to change the clutch or remove the engine without having to re-bleed the braking system. I just undo the bolts to the servo brackets and hang the entire servo over the wing on a blanket. That's a real advantage.

[love machine]

Be prepared to have a nervous breakdown fitting the dust seals. Despite being totally clean, mine were a nightmare/nightmare beyone nightmare.

[vrooom]

Gee, im looking forward to fit dust seal!

[Cooperman]

love machine said:

Be prepared to have a nervous breakdown fitting the dust seals. Despite being totally clean, mine were a nightmare/nightmare beyone nightmare.

Arguably the worst job on Mini braking systems. It's easier if you fit the new pistons and all seals before re-joining the two halves of the caliper as that way you are pushing the seal in squarely and not on-the-p*ss if you see what I mean,

Peter