is there different version of cooper S 7.5" brakes
Discussion
vroom
4 sorts of calipers
1) 997 cooper - these are tiny. the pads are the size of old 50p's. they use tiny 7" discs with drum brake type c.vs. very rare.
2) 998 cooper - more common than the above. the pads are a little bigger and they still use the small 7" discs and c.vs. no better than a good set of drums.
3) cooper s - very common. use 7.5" discs and the bigger c.vs. the pistons measure 45mm across. the disc screws to the flange with 4 screws. the studs are in the disc.
4) late mini - common as muck!. use 8.4" discs and the bigger c.vs. the disc bolts to the flange with 4 bolts. the bolts are in the flange not the disc. calipers have 'ap' cast into the end of them.
when buying s calipers you need to be very careful. i personally wouldnt even buy a second hand set (unless they where very very clean). the bleed nipples can snap off and people glue them back into sell them! (ive seen this done). its also worth considering that buying a secondhand s disc set up is usually trouble. by the time you have replaced the discs, bearings, cvs, ball joints etc and discovered that the hubs are knackered because the bearings have span in them, it would have been better to buy a new set.
4 sorts of calipers
1) 997 cooper - these are tiny. the pads are the size of old 50p's. they use tiny 7" discs with drum brake type c.vs. very rare.
2) 998 cooper - more common than the above. the pads are a little bigger and they still use the small 7" discs and c.vs. no better than a good set of drums.
3) cooper s - very common. use 7.5" discs and the bigger c.vs. the pistons measure 45mm across. the disc screws to the flange with 4 screws. the studs are in the disc.
4) late mini - common as muck!. use 8.4" discs and the bigger c.vs. the disc bolts to the flange with 4 bolts. the bolts are in the flange not the disc. calipers have 'ap' cast into the end of them.
when buying s calipers you need to be very careful. i personally wouldnt even buy a second hand set (unless they where very very clean). the bleed nipples can snap off and people glue them back into sell them! (ive seen this done). its also worth considering that buying a secondhand s disc set up is usually trouble. by the time you have replaced the discs, bearings, cvs, ball joints etc and discovered that the hubs are knackered because the bearings have span in them, it would have been better to buy a new set.
Buy a set of crusty S callipers, exchange them for recon ones and buy everything else new. You will find out why if you try and cut corners. Trust me, I have replaced everything on a set of S disks and now the CV's need doing. My set was £230 in fair condition. What a waste of money. They are great brakes though!
You can rebuild 'S' calipers and it's not too difficult. So long as you do it properly you'll have no problems.
First of all remove the bleed screw and check the thread. If the thread is damaged you need to fit a Helicoil and fit it properly. If in doubt get a professional machine shop to do this as the new bleed screw, and you must use a new bleed screw, MUST sit square on the original centre line in order to seal at the chamfer at the bottom.
Split the two halves, remove the pistons and seals and thoroughly clean the two halves. Ultrasonic cleaning is best, but if not available just use a good new wire brush.
Wash out first in meths, then with a brake cleaner aerosol. Do not use any oil-based cleaner like WD40 or paraffin. MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS ABSOLUTELTY CLEAN.
Buy a rebuild kit from Mini Spares Centre with stainless steel pistons and the little sealing ring which goes between the two halves.
Now, carefuly reassemble using Castrol rubber grease (or equivalent) on the piston seals. The most difficult thing is fitting the dust seals in my experience, but with the two halves apart it is easier.
Then refit to the car, attach the flexible hose, and bleed out with the finest quality fluid. I usually attach the new hose before fitting the caliper onto the car as then the alignment of the hose can be easily set on installation. If you use an existing hose, the new copper washer can be slightly thicker or thinner when tightened up with the result that the hose has a slight kink in it - not good.
Aginh, YOU MUST MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS ABSOLUTELY CLEAN AT ALLSTAGES OF THE REBUILD (have I stressed that enough?).
First of all remove the bleed screw and check the thread. If the thread is damaged you need to fit a Helicoil and fit it properly. If in doubt get a professional machine shop to do this as the new bleed screw, and you must use a new bleed screw, MUST sit square on the original centre line in order to seal at the chamfer at the bottom.
Split the two halves, remove the pistons and seals and thoroughly clean the two halves. Ultrasonic cleaning is best, but if not available just use a good new wire brush.
Wash out first in meths, then with a brake cleaner aerosol. Do not use any oil-based cleaner like WD40 or paraffin. MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS ABSOLUTELTY CLEAN.
Buy a rebuild kit from Mini Spares Centre with stainless steel pistons and the little sealing ring which goes between the two halves.
Now, carefuly reassemble using Castrol rubber grease (or equivalent) on the piston seals. The most difficult thing is fitting the dust seals in my experience, but with the two halves apart it is easier.
Then refit to the car, attach the flexible hose, and bleed out with the finest quality fluid. I usually attach the new hose before fitting the caliper onto the car as then the alignment of the hose can be easily set on installation. If you use an existing hose, the new copper washer can be slightly thicker or thinner when tightened up with the result that the hose has a slight kink in it - not good.
Aginh, YOU MUST MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS ABSOLUTELY CLEAN AT ALLSTAGES OF THE REBUILD (have I stressed that enough?).
You will be amazed at how much better a Mini handles on 10" wheels, especially with a bit of neg camber on the front and zero camber to 1/2 degree neg on the back. Use 165/70 x 10 Falken or Yoko tyres as the best option, they are both good.
Don't make the mistake of lowering it, though, as it reduces the available suspension travel and makes it 'twitchy' on bumpy roads, like the minor roads the Mini is most fun on.
Don't forget to fit up-rated dampers. By the way, let me remind you, you don't need to remove the fuel tank to change rear dampers, you cut a rectangular hole about 5" x 3" in the rear seat-back panel to give spanner access, then fit an aluminium plate, sealed with bathroom sealer and screwed on with self-tappers to cover the hole. If you don't fit the cover you'll get exhaust fumes in the car, so it's very important. (here ends maintenance tip of the day!).
Peter
Don't make the mistake of lowering it, though, as it reduces the available suspension travel and makes it 'twitchy' on bumpy roads, like the minor roads the Mini is most fun on.
Don't forget to fit up-rated dampers. By the way, let me remind you, you don't need to remove the fuel tank to change rear dampers, you cut a rectangular hole about 5" x 3" in the rear seat-back panel to give spanner access, then fit an aluminium plate, sealed with bathroom sealer and screwed on with self-tappers to cover the hole. If you don't fit the cover you'll get exhaust fumes in the car, so it's very important. (here ends maintenance tip of the day!).
Peter
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