Turbo Trainers - Numpty Questions:
Discussion
Apologies for the stupid questions, but I need some advice please.
Following a cruiciate ligament injury and a lot of expensive Physio I'm ready to get back on a bike and start building some strength back in my knee (and shed a few of the pounds that have gone on since I stopped riding).
I'm not a massive fan of road cycling in the dark and am rather wary of being stranded out in the sticks with a mullered knee again so was thinking about buying a turbo trainer and start off in the garage while watching a DVD or something.
It appears that these things require a quick release back wheel which my aging old shed doesn't have. If this is the case is it easy to retrofit or should I just replace the rear wheel?
I love cycling but have never taken much interest in the mechanical side of my bikes. Other than the usual servicing I've never had cause to do any major surgery on it.
Following a cruiciate ligament injury and a lot of expensive Physio I'm ready to get back on a bike and start building some strength back in my knee (and shed a few of the pounds that have gone on since I stopped riding).
I'm not a massive fan of road cycling in the dark and am rather wary of being stranded out in the sticks with a mullered knee again so was thinking about buying a turbo trainer and start off in the garage while watching a DVD or something.
It appears that these things require a quick release back wheel which my aging old shed doesn't have. If this is the case is it easy to retrofit or should I just replace the rear wheel?
I love cycling but have never taken much interest in the mechanical side of my bikes. Other than the usual servicing I've never had cause to do any major surgery on it.
In the main, they have two 'cups' that clamp over a replacement quick release that has cylindrical heads.
You might be able to bodge using something that fits over the nut/a cylindrical nut(??) of some kind, but I'd be cautious of that.
QR axles are hollow, and the axle part doesn't protrude beyond the face of the dropout (slot into which the wheel/axle locates in the frame). That allows the QR to clamp down on the frame, holding the wheel in. Non QR axles are generally solid, and protrude either side of the frame so you can get a nut on them.
It may be possible/practical (or even desireable) to swap the axle in your existing hub - especially if it is of the loose bearing, cone / cup type of construction. but then finding all that out might not be so easy, and may require some fiddling to get a compatible hollow axle.
Getting a replacement wheel would be the least complicated, and doesn't have to be expensive.. but it rather depends on the number of gears, and what kind of arrangement you have at the back - I'm half guessing it might pre-date freehubs with slot-on cassettes.
HTH.
You might be able to bodge using something that fits over the nut/a cylindrical nut(??) of some kind, but I'd be cautious of that.
QR axles are hollow, and the axle part doesn't protrude beyond the face of the dropout (slot into which the wheel/axle locates in the frame). That allows the QR to clamp down on the frame, holding the wheel in. Non QR axles are generally solid, and protrude either side of the frame so you can get a nut on them.
It may be possible/practical (or even desireable) to swap the axle in your existing hub - especially if it is of the loose bearing, cone / cup type of construction. but then finding all that out might not be so easy, and may require some fiddling to get a compatible hollow axle.
Getting a replacement wheel would be the least complicated, and doesn't have to be expensive.. but it rather depends on the number of gears, and what kind of arrangement you have at the back - I'm half guessing it might pre-date freehubs with slot-on cassettes.
HTH.
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