Honda Prelude - problems
Discussion
Hey all, (97 Prelude 2.2 VTEC -Automatic)
During a long drive the other day ( >180miles) my car started cutting out at 70mph.
Dead, no electrics, power steering, revs, radio, lights...nothing.
After coasting down to around 55mph it kicks back into life and regains power etc, as if nothing was wrong.
It did this a few times before I gave up for an hour and then started driving again. At this point, it behaved perfectly,
Since then its done it once, but has become really hard to start - I need lots of crank and a bootful of revs to 5k to get it to catch. Once running, its great.
I've since done another 200miles and other than the starting iisue, its been fine.
I have checked battery charge (12.8V) no alternator lights.
Pulled all the fuses and replaced.
Pulled the relays and tapped, replaced.
Checked all underbonnet wiring including earth strap ( my main suspect)
Im lost, whats wrong with. my car?!!!!
During a long drive the other day ( >180miles) my car started cutting out at 70mph.
Dead, no electrics, power steering, revs, radio, lights...nothing.
After coasting down to around 55mph it kicks back into life and regains power etc, as if nothing was wrong.
It did this a few times before I gave up for an hour and then started driving again. At this point, it behaved perfectly,
Since then its done it once, but has become really hard to start - I need lots of crank and a bootful of revs to 5k to get it to catch. Once running, its great.
I've since done another 200miles and other than the starting iisue, its been fine.
I have checked battery charge (12.8V) no alternator lights.
Pulled all the fuses and replaced.
Pulled the relays and tapped, replaced.
Checked all underbonnet wiring including earth strap ( my main suspect)
Im lost, whats wrong with. my car?!!!!
Battery cables and Earth straps first thoughts. Poor intermittent connections ?? Had that happen with a Honda engined Rover.
There again, had this happen to a car years ago. It was a faulty Ignition switch and the weight of the keys on the ring in the switch caused the occasional cutting out and in. Very dangerous when happens at night. Lights out...
Changed the switch with a known good used one and no further issues.
Cars are like that.
My scrapyard visits looking at older scrap Hondas usually have the Distributor first to be removed soon after arrival by parts vultures. Web threads show those are prone to give starting issues.
Good luck.
There again, had this happen to a car years ago. It was a faulty Ignition switch and the weight of the keys on the ring in the switch caused the occasional cutting out and in. Very dangerous when happens at night. Lights out...
Changed the switch with a known good used one and no further issues.
Cars are like that.
My scrapyard visits looking at older scrap Hondas usually have the Distributor first to be removed soon after arrival by parts vultures. Web threads show those are prone to give starting issues.
Good luck.
Sounds as though it could be the dreaded - and well-documented - Prelude ignition switch intermittent failure problem. There was a recall for this years ago, when the 5th gen Prelude was current but by this time the switches are failing, usually intermittently as OP describes, again. Take a look at Prelude websites for more info. I got a s/h switch for mine from another forum member for £25 but a new one is more often the answer. Only takes a few minutes to change once the column shrouds are off.
OK Problem solved ( I may not be the worlds quickest mechanic.)
It was indeed the Ignition module.
this was a prick to get out - but a piece of cake to replace.
(and the dashboard and surrounds are now nice and clean again as a bonus)
So if anyone needs a Honda ignition module changed out, I charge hourly ...
It was indeed the Ignition module.
this was a prick to get out - but a piece of cake to replace.
(and the dashboard and surrounds are now nice and clean again as a bonus)
So if anyone needs a Honda ignition module changed out, I charge hourly ...
redchina said:
aha, I changed the battery to a new one as well, just in case.
I thought what you meant was that the charging current from the alternator to the battery was 12.8 Volts, in other words, the alternator output.If I understood correctly, a new battery will not cure the problem. The alternator output should be around 14 Volts. (13.5V to 14.5V)
as a footnote to this thread, the car appears to be running as well as it ever has done in the last ten years.
nothing tangible that I can put my finger on, but it starts very quickly, revs freely, gearbox is fast..
Maybe its my imagination, but for $60, worth trying on your own Honda to see if there is a difference made - way cheaper than a battery that most folks would do as a first 'go to' (I admit, I changed that too though)
anyway - thats me off for a sedative.
nothing tangible that I can put my finger on, but it starts very quickly, revs freely, gearbox is fast..
Maybe its my imagination, but for $60, worth trying on your own Honda to see if there is a difference made - way cheaper than a battery that most folks would do as a first 'go to' (I admit, I changed that too though)
anyway - thats me off for a sedative.
as an update, I bought a replacement (second hand) switch, fitted it and the problem didnt go away.
As it turns out, it was the starter motor (not my go to solution in a non-british car, and hitting it didnt work!)
Changed out the starter motor, then had to go back to the previous ignition switch as the replacement was dodgy.
then the radiator cap gave out !
still on the road though
As it turns out, it was the starter motor (not my go to solution in a non-british car, and hitting it didnt work!)
Changed out the starter motor, then had to go back to the previous ignition switch as the replacement was dodgy.
then the radiator cap gave out !
still on the road though
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