Convert MTB to Hybrid or just buy a new bike ?

[Bl0at3r]

I have a Scott Reflex 20 MTB.



It has never got muddy, as I have OCD and don't like it getting dirty!

I also ride on road mainly but don't want an all out thin tubed frame road bike with skinny wheels and tyres or drop bars. Besides the fact at 17st the bike would probably disappear up my a*se crack, I prefer the upright riding position and a beefier frame.

I have bought some Schwlabe semi-slick tyres which have helped with rolling resistance a lot. But what else do I need to do to turn it into a hybrid?

I assume some flatter bars and a more upright headstock/stem?

Or are hybrid frame geometry too different to MTB ?

Or would it be better to just sell it and buy a new hybrid bike ?

Thanks

Edited by Bl0at3r on Saturday 9th August 07:14

Edited by Bl0at3r on Saturday 9th August 07:16

[Wilmslowboy]

Lock out the front suspension

No point wasting energy on the road bouncing up and down

[Bl0at3r]

Wilmslowboy said:

Lock out the front suspension

No point wasting energy on the road bouncing up and down

Thanks - I do have a lever for that so will give it a try - do hybrids mainly have rigid forks then?

[Wilmslowboy]

Many hybrids, start with a road bike (frame, forks, wheels gearset etc)
And simply swap out the handlebars and shifters (brake and gear)


The tyres (which will support a higher recommended PSI) and suspension lock out should make a big difference, a few members of our bike club use converted MTB with no problems at all.

.........next suggestion might be some SPD pedals & shoes


At some point you will have to ditch the baggy MTB clothes and do the whole Lycra thing.

[Bl0at3r]

Wilmslowboy said:

Many hybrids, start with a road bike (frame, forks, wheels gearset etc)
And simply swap out the handlebars and shifters (brake and gear)


The tyres (which will support a higher recommended PSI) and suspension lock out should make a big difference, a few members of our bike club use converted MTB with no problems at all.

.........next suggestion might be some SPD pedals & shoes


At some point you will have to ditch the baggy MTB clothes and do the whole Lycra thing.

Useful, thanks.

I do have SPD's and shoes already and am very happy with them.

I'll gladly sacrifice the extra mph not to wear Lycra thanks

[thetrash]

Just buy a road bike or a cyclocross bike or have a look at the new Specialized Diverge, another bike I need to own!

Every person I've met who's brought a hybrid wishes they'd just brought a road bike 6 months later.

[AC43]

Bl0at3r said:

I have a Scott Reflex 20 MTB.



It has never got muddy, as I have OCD and don't like it getting dirty!

I also ride on road mainly but don't want an all out thin tubed frame road bike with skinny wheels and tyres or drop bars. Besides the fact at 17st the bike would probably disappear up my a*se crack, I prefer the upright riding position and a beefier frame.

I have bought some Schwlabe semi-slick tyres which have helped with rolling resistance a lot. But what else do I need to do to turn it into a hybrid?

I assume some flatter bars and a more upright headstock/stem?

Or are hybrid frame geometry too different to MTB ?

If the riding position is right for you then modding a MTB works just fine; I stuck a set of Continental Sport Contacts on my 29er, chopped the bars down, fitted a more comfortable saddle and stuck some Ergon grips on. Now it's a very capable cross-London commuter. Once in a blue moon lock I out the font sus but normally prefer the absorption - it's extremely comfortable. It's also better having the sus when cranked over hard on broken tarmac - really helps the front find grip.

I've tried a few hybrids and to me they are usually very harsh and need carbon forks as a minimum. The rubber isolation thingy (IsoZone) in the rear dropouts on the Trek 7.5FX is a great innovation. Not sure why more manufacturers don't try to do a similar thing as, to me, the rear end of a non-sus alu bike is very harsh indeed compared to steel frames on anything other than billiard-smooth tarmac.

Aluminium frames may be very light compared to steel but they are extremely rigid. The only way to counter this in my book is carbon forks, fatter tyres, Isozone, better grips, better saddles and so on.

Edited by AC43 on Saturday 9th August 12:37

[magpie215]

road biased gearing when the current drivetrain is shot will help

[AC43]

magpie215 said:

road biased gearing when the current drivetrain is shot will help

Good point - a larger chainring/smalle rear helps

[Steve Evil]

I'd give a cyclocross bike a try at a minimum, although people assume flat bars are more comfortable you've only really got one position to ride in and my hands start to ache after a while, whereas with drop bars you've got 3 or 4 positions you can swap between to keep things comfortable. Plus as it's cyclocross you can get away without going full-lycra.