Road bike VS MTB with slicks
Discussion
Hi, i was wondering if it's worth to buy a road bike. I'm currently using MTB XC with semi-slicks 2.0 and on 100 km ride i can do an average speed about 21-24 km/h --> http://www.endomondo.com/workouts/340203433/150387...
I think that it's quite aerodynamic because my handlebar is low positioned so i think that the main difference with road bike will be a bit less weight and narrower tires. Do u think that it can really make difference with speed and how big ?
I know that it is a big difference between MTB with knobbies but mine MTB has semi slick and quite aerodynamic position so is it still worth to buy a road bike ? My MTB weights about 14 kg. If i buy road bike it would be some cheap second hand and it will weight about 10 kg. Can u share some experience with me ?
This is a picture of my current bike with semi slick tires ----> http://postimg.org/image/xn9p8vvvz/
I think that it's quite aerodynamic because my handlebar is low positioned so i think that the main difference with road bike will be a bit less weight and narrower tires. Do u think that it can really make difference with speed and how big ?
I know that it is a big difference between MTB with knobbies but mine MTB has semi slick and quite aerodynamic position so is it still worth to buy a road bike ? My MTB weights about 14 kg. If i buy road bike it would be some cheap second hand and it will weight about 10 kg. Can u share some experience with me ?
This is a picture of my current bike with semi slick tires ----> http://postimg.org/image/xn9p8vvvz/
Edited by slawek371 on Friday 20th June 08:24
Edited by slawek371 on Friday 20th June 08:32
Road bike will be faster. Your position on an mtb isnt that aero at all, you are upright and your arms are spread out thus you have quite a wide frontal area exposed acting as a wind break. On a road bike you are far more aeroodynamic because the bars are narrower and you are able to vary hand position on the bars, get lower and reduce said frontal area.
A road bike will also be at least 5 lbs less than your mtb (suspension forks alone weigh 3-4 lbs) and roadie gearing will be better suited for sustaining higher avg speeds in an efficient manner, your mtb will most likely have a final drive of 46/12 whereas a road bike will have 50/11 or 53/11. 24 kmh isnt that fast, on a road bike you should be much closer to 30 kmh without really having to push. Other factors like narrower tyres, higher psi etc will reduce rolling resistance and increase speed.
A road bike will also be at least 5 lbs less than your mtb (suspension forks alone weigh 3-4 lbs) and roadie gearing will be better suited for sustaining higher avg speeds in an efficient manner, your mtb will most likely have a final drive of 46/12 whereas a road bike will have 50/11 or 53/11. 24 kmh isnt that fast, on a road bike you should be much closer to 30 kmh without really having to push. Other factors like narrower tyres, higher psi etc will reduce rolling resistance and increase speed.
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 20th June 08:40
Weight of bike overall.
Weight of wheels/tyres (takes less effort to accelerate, and go up hills).
Slimmer tyres (less friction)
Higher gears (look at the size of front chain rings).
Size, in the UK, road bikes (generally) have 700c wheels/tyres - which are bigger in circumference than a standard 26 inch wheel/tyre combination.
Safe to say you will go faster, unless you have to go along unmade sections of roads, where wheel sympathy may slow you down to avoid buckling/bending wheels (but used with common sense they are strong).
I notice a big difference.
If I'm going out with less fit friends on road bikes, and want a workout, I use my mountain bike with slick tyres.
If you have the space for another bike... (or you riding is on road)
Get a road bike...
Weight of wheels/tyres (takes less effort to accelerate, and go up hills).
Slimmer tyres (less friction)
Higher gears (look at the size of front chain rings).
Size, in the UK, road bikes (generally) have 700c wheels/tyres - which are bigger in circumference than a standard 26 inch wheel/tyre combination.
Safe to say you will go faster, unless you have to go along unmade sections of roads, where wheel sympathy may slow you down to avoid buckling/bending wheels (but used with common sense they are strong).
I notice a big difference.
If I'm going out with less fit friends on road bikes, and want a workout, I use my mountain bike with slick tyres.
If you have the space for another bike... (or you riding is on road)
Get a road bike...
slawek371 said:
This is a picture of my current bike with semi slick tires ----> http://postimg.org/image/xn9p8vvvz/
Where was that taken? Looks like one of the bridges over the Wisla in Torun but I can't find the same vantage point on Google Street View:https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Torun/@53.009,...
I commute on effectively an mtb with slicks or two road bikes and compare on strava
Over a bumpy ish 10 miles:
Best on road bike one: 22mph AV
Best on Road bike two: 20mph av
Best on MTB with semi slicks: 18.9 av
Over a short distance the MTB is not too much slower, it also means I can cane it down badly surfaced roads, that on an road bike I ease off on
BUT:
Once past 10/20 miles distance the road bikes start to be so much easier, quicker and more efficient , my mtb uses more of my legs and I tire out quicker.
Plus on hilss road bikes are quicker up and have the relevant gear ratios for long flat sections
Plus you can push a road bike to 20-30mph+ on the flat , with an MTB its bloody hard work to get past 20mph imo
Over a bumpy ish 10 miles:
Best on road bike one: 22mph AV
Best on Road bike two: 20mph av
Best on MTB with semi slicks: 18.9 av
Over a short distance the MTB is not too much slower, it also means I can cane it down badly surfaced roads, that on an road bike I ease off on
BUT:
Once past 10/20 miles distance the road bikes start to be so much easier, quicker and more efficient , my mtb uses more of my legs and I tire out quicker.
Plus on hilss road bikes are quicker up and have the relevant gear ratios for long flat sections
Plus you can push a road bike to 20-30mph+ on the flat , with an MTB its bloody hard work to get past 20mph imo
On a good day on my commuter I can average about 15mph over about 13 miles.
I've just bought a (cheap - i.e. £130 SH Triban3) road bike and on my first longer ride I managed to average 17mph over 26 miles.
I know these aren't great figures for serious cyclists, but then I'm 42 and over 16 stone. The main point is that I found it easier to maintain a higer avarage speed for more than double the distance - without too much extra effort.
And I reckon the longer route was also a harder ride - it was certainly steeper. I think we climbed about 1,800ft on the long ride versus about 300 on the shorter one.
I've just bought a (cheap - i.e. £130 SH Triban3) road bike and on my first longer ride I managed to average 17mph over 26 miles.
I know these aren't great figures for serious cyclists, but then I'm 42 and over 16 stone. The main point is that I found it easier to maintain a higer avarage speed for more than double the distance - without too much extra effort.
And I reckon the longer route was also a harder ride - it was certainly steeper. I think we climbed about 1,800ft on the long ride versus about 300 on the shorter one.
Watchman said:
here was that taken? Looks like one of the bridges over the Wisla in Torun but I can't find the same vantage point on Google Street View:
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Torun/@53.009,...
Yes it's in Torun, u can't find it because when u look at it from the street this spot is blacked out by bushes. This place is on the east form place which u have shown on the link with google maps street view. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Torun/@53.009,...
It is closer to the second bridge in the east direction, here is a second picture from the same place but it is taken to east direction ---> http://postimg.org/image/ohohcjty5/. I live in city Bydgoszcz, it's the nearest city to Torun so sometimes i cycle there, this picture i took 2 days ago, i used application on android using gps to track my route so u can see there in which place this picture is taken, i just cycled to this place and returned. http://www.endomondo.com/workouts/359369431/150387...
Edited by slawek371 on Friday 20th June 10:39
slawek371 said:
Watchman said:
here was that taken? Looks like one of the bridges over the Wisla in Torun but I can't find the same vantage point on Google Street View:
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Torun/@53.009,...
Yes it's in Torun, u can't find it because when u look at it from the street this spot is blacked out by bushes. This place is on the east form place which u have shown on the link with google maps street view. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Torun/@53.009,...
It is closer to the second bridge in the east direction, here is a second picture from the same place but it is taken to east direction ---> http://postimg.org/image/ohohcjty5/. I live in city Bydgoszcz, it's the nearest city to Torun so sometimes i cycle there, this picture i took 2 days ago, i used application on android using gps to track my route so u can see there in which place this picture is taken, i just cycled to this place and returned. http://www.endomondo.com/workouts/359369431/150387...
Edited by slawek371 on Friday 20th June 10:39
I have also been to visit her relatives in Bydgoszcz.
To get back to your point - I have an old MTB on slicks and a more road-oriented bike with flat bars. Both have tall-enough gearing for my legs. In fact, the main differences is that one is on 26" x 1.5" tyres while the other is on 700c x 28mm tyres. On my 8-mile loop every evening, I manage that in about 38 mins on the 700c bike but a little over 45 mins on the 26" bike.
I am not fit enough to take much advantage of any aero but I would suggest at the speeds you're managing you are and even though you are "head down" on your MTB, you'd find you are more "tucked" into a racing position on a road bike.
Could you borrow one to try out maybe?
Thank you for answers, i will think about that. I like that road bike can make me a bit faster on roads but i will have to be more cautious on some rougher places, curbs, i wouldn't be able to ride through some grass or sand. I also think about trying some aerobars on my MTB, it can make me aero like on road bike, then the only thing slowing me down will be tires width and weight but weight only matters when accelerating and on hills, tires width shouldn't make a big difference in speed. I have read somewhere that the bigest impact on aero has position and clothes.
slawek371 said:
Thank you for answers, i will think about that. I like that road bike can make me a bit faster on roads but i will have to be more cautious on some rougher places, curbs, i wouldn't be able to ride through some grass or sand. I also think about trying some aerobars on my MTB, it can make me aero like on road bike, then the only thing slowing me down will be tires width and weight but weight only matters when accelerating and on hills, tires width shouldn't make a big difference in speed. I have read somewhere that the bigest impact on aero has position and clothes.
Thing is, aerodynamics only tends to make a difference when you are riding over 20mph, which you probably won't be on a MTB for large sections, also aero bars on a MTB are likely to induce aches and injury through the odd position . You are right about curbs, you can bounce the odd one or ride down the odd track on on a road bike, but not day in day out like you can on a MTBWhen i ride against wind on flat road, my speed is about 20 km/h (13 mph), depending on wind, if it's really strong it can take big effort to maintain these 20 km/h but with good wind i can ride 30 km/h almost without effort or even 35 - 40 km/h (18 mph) if i push a little. Wind makes a huge difference so i think that if i can be more aero it should make a difference, particulary when riding against wind.
IMHO any roadbike will be night and day compared to an MTB on slicks.
I used to commute on my Cannondale MTB running slicks (Schwalbe Big Apple) which I chose for comfort (1.5) but are still quicker than knobblies. I'd get passed by people on roadbikes pretty regularly - but certain I'm fitter. The gearing, riding position, tyres, bike weight is all in their favour.
I've just ditched the Cannondale to run a rigid singlespeed MTB (same Schwalbe tyres) which is a much more pleasant commuting experience. I don't expect to be quick, so am not worried about being overtaken by wildlife. Plus you get some good banter.
Switching to a roadbike would make sense, but friends have found they get a better workout on a slicked MTB. Although the "n+1" rule remains a compelling argument...
I used to commute on my Cannondale MTB running slicks (Schwalbe Big Apple) which I chose for comfort (1.5) but are still quicker than knobblies. I'd get passed by people on roadbikes pretty regularly - but certain I'm fitter. The gearing, riding position, tyres, bike weight is all in their favour.
I've just ditched the Cannondale to run a rigid singlespeed MTB (same Schwalbe tyres) which is a much more pleasant commuting experience. I don't expect to be quick, so am not worried about being overtaken by wildlife. Plus you get some good banter.
Switching to a roadbike would make sense, but friends have found they get a better workout on a slicked MTB. Although the "n+1" rule remains a compelling argument...
I can average 30kph on the flat on my roadie, I went for a ride with a friend who was visiting a few weeks ago and he took my old road bike and kept up easily. His normal bike is a slick shod Giant hybrid and he was a good 6-7kph faster on the road bike than his normal pace so it does make a big difference.
My experience is that is makes about 1mph difference between slicks on MTB(not semi's) and roadbike. The difference in wheel diameter is a red herring because if you use the gearing it compensates (if that makes sense). Note on my mtb I also use a close ratio road freehub (as near to corncob ie jumps of 1, that I can achieve) If you are using an mtb freewheel with large jumps between gears, then you will invariably be in either a gear too high or too low. Gearing is a huge factor that is missed by many, and is more important than either weight or wheel size.
Fastpedeller said:
My experience is that is makes about 1mph difference between slicks on MTB(not semi's) and roadbike. The difference in wheel diameter is a red herring because if you use the gearing it compensates (if that makes sense). Note on my mtb I also use a close ratio road freehub (as near to corncob ie jumps of 1, that I can achieve) If you are using an mtb freewheel with large jumps between gears, then you will invariably be in either a gear too high or too low. Gearing is a huge factor that is missed by many, and is more important than either weight or wheel size.
It'll be a s
t sight more than 1mph.
Worst "I am almost as fast as most roadies on my MTB with slicks" thread ever!!!! Aero bars and lycra and you will be smashin' past all of those pesky MAMIL's and racking up the Strava KOM's by the pageful!!! 
I am blessed in having a garage with a 26" hardtail, 26" full susser, CX bike, winter roadie, fast roadie and comfy roadie - and I ride quite a lot so have a few miles in my legs and can use all of them to a reasonable level. There is no way on earth my average on one of my MTB's over any distance on the road could come anywhere near the same average as a road bike - end of, regardless of tyres, gearing, wind direction, solar flares, El Nino weather systems of amount of alcohol consumed the night before a ride! It's simply not apples with apples my friend!
On a serious note, and taking into account your original posting and the fact you seem to ride on rough sections of road deemed too bad to ride a road bike, I would suggest you might be looking at a CX bike. A CX bike will give you the compromise between a better position for speed, a higher bb, big wheels, compromised gearing that can be used on and off road, and as long as the off-road bits don't get too technical you will also be able to better your MTB performance as every pedal stroke will give you more return for your power output (assuming your current MTB is a 26"er).
I would suggest you need to answer a few questions to yourself first;
> How important is speed to you? Sounds like you are proficient on your MTB so what are you prepared to pay for an extra couple of MPH average top end (assuming it is only a couple of MPH and not 6-8)?
> What is your budget? Around the £1k pricepoint should see you on something like a Cannondale CAADx - well specc'd and very capable
> Could you live with yourself if you bought a CX or Road bike and were overtaken by someone on an MTB with slicks?
I am blessed in having a garage with a 26" hardtail, 26" full susser, CX bike, winter roadie, fast roadie and comfy roadie - and I ride quite a lot so have a few miles in my legs and can use all of them to a reasonable level. There is no way on earth my average on one of my MTB's over any distance on the road could come anywhere near the same average as a road bike - end of, regardless of tyres, gearing, wind direction, solar flares, El Nino weather systems of amount of alcohol consumed the night before a ride! It's simply not apples with apples my friend!
On a serious note, and taking into account your original posting and the fact you seem to ride on rough sections of road deemed too bad to ride a road bike, I would suggest you might be looking at a CX bike. A CX bike will give you the compromise between a better position for speed, a higher bb, big wheels, compromised gearing that can be used on and off road, and as long as the off-road bits don't get too technical you will also be able to better your MTB performance as every pedal stroke will give you more return for your power output (assuming your current MTB is a 26"er).
I would suggest you need to answer a few questions to yourself first;
> How important is speed to you? Sounds like you are proficient on your MTB so what are you prepared to pay for an extra couple of MPH average top end (assuming it is only a couple of MPH and not 6-8)?
> What is your budget? Around the £1k pricepoint should see you on something like a Cannondale CAADx - well specc'd and very capable
> Could you live with yourself if you bought a CX or Road bike and were overtaken by someone on an MTB with slicks?
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