Body work repair advice.
Discussion
Hi
If you are replacing the mirrors with another type there is a lot of the old backing behind the door, the old mount and Fiberglas are easy to remove with a rotary tool, then do a Fiberglas repair from the back.
I have a picture of the finished door skin, will look for it and post it up.
Alan
If you are replacing the mirrors with another type there is a lot of the old backing behind the door, the old mount and Fiberglas are easy to remove with a rotary tool, then do a Fiberglas repair from the back.
I have a picture of the finished door skin, will look for it and post it up.
Alan
Worth a look at;
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=21&...
although it did get a bit off the subject!
I carefully cut round the plastic boss of the old mirror, under the cover. I then ground back the plastic boss until it was below panel level then roughed the plastic up and filled it and finished it. I used the rubber inserts available from Car Builder Solutions which I have found useful elsewhere on the S, rather than the expanding bolts.
I did not remove the doors or cards and I did not want to disturb the bonding of the plastic boss inside the door. The glassed in plastic does provide a sort of 'web' inside the panel which reduces flexing in the area the mirror is mounted.
If time has not been an issue I would have loved to strip the door, take it off the car, remove the boss from inside and rebuild all the fibreglass as if there had never been a hole there. My car is not however going to be 'concourse' so, on this occasion, I didnt think the effort was worthwhile. Nor was I convinced it would be any stronger.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=21&...
although it did get a bit off the subject!
I carefully cut round the plastic boss of the old mirror, under the cover. I then ground back the plastic boss until it was below panel level then roughed the plastic up and filled it and finished it. I used the rubber inserts available from Car Builder Solutions which I have found useful elsewhere on the S, rather than the expanding bolts.
I did not remove the doors or cards and I did not want to disturb the bonding of the plastic boss inside the door. The glassed in plastic does provide a sort of 'web' inside the panel which reduces flexing in the area the mirror is mounted.
If time has not been an issue I would have loved to strip the door, take it off the car, remove the boss from inside and rebuild all the fibreglass as if there had never been a hole there. My car is not however going to be 'concourse' so, on this occasion, I didnt think the effort was worthwhile. Nor was I convinced it would be any stronger.
+1 for Phillpots article,
Using fibreglass matting for backing strength and Isopon P40 resin to fill the ground out area on the front face, keeping just below the final surface,ideally you don't want to sand the fibreglass that you have used, then P38 filler, sanding, seal coat, primer and top coat,then lots of polishing compound, T-Cut and finally wax polish, was the way I was taught, on my apprenticeship 36 years ago.
Using fibreglass matting for backing strength and Isopon P40 resin to fill the ground out area on the front face, keeping just below the final surface,ideally you don't want to sand the fibreglass that you have used, then P38 filler, sanding, seal coat, primer and top coat,then lots of polishing compound, T-Cut and finally wax polish, was the way I was taught, on my apprenticeship 36 years ago.
Edited by S2Mike on Tuesday 20th May 13:52
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