single ring on front of road bike
Discussion
I just built a new road bike for this year. I only wanted to use the larger chainring on the front as with 10 gears I had 3 lower gears than my old fixed gear bike it was replacing.
What i've found though is if I am on one of the smaller sprockets at the rear if I hit a big bump at high speed my chain can come off. Do I need to invest in something to retain the chain or do I need a front gear mechanism I simply will not use?
What i've found though is if I am on one of the smaller sprockets at the rear if I hit a big bump at high speed my chain can come off. Do I need to invest in something to retain the chain or do I need a front gear mechanism I simply will not use?
Batfink said:
I just built a new road bike for this year. I only wanted to use the larger chainring on the front as with 10 gears I had 3 lower gears than my old fixed gear bike it was replacing.
What i've found though is if I am on one of the smaller sprockets at the rear if I hit a big bump at high speed my chain can come off. Do I need to invest in something to retain the chain or do I need a front gear mechanism I simply will not use?
Do you have a short cage mech on? This will help. There are chain guides for MTBs and this may help as well.What i've found though is if I am on one of the smaller sprockets at the rear if I hit a big bump at high speed my chain can come off. Do I need to invest in something to retain the chain or do I need a front gear mechanism I simply will not use?
I'm running my CX bike as a road bike and using a 1x10 set-up.
The best way to prevent the chain from dropping is to use a clutch type rear mech and a thick/thin front chainring. You could try one or the other but I know that both together works well.
The problem with the clutch rear mech's is that they're an MTB thing so you can only use an MTB rear mech. Due to issues with different pull ratios between mechs and shifters this only works well with a SRAM shifter and mech as they have the same ratio. As far as I'm aware you can do it with Shimano but you need to use a 9 speed shifter with a 10 speed mech to get it to work.
The thick/thin rings like Absolute Black or Wolftooth will help stop the chain dropping but I'm not sure how well they'll work with a standard rear mech.
You could of course use a front chain guide but they look a but crap
My bike is using a SRAM X0 Type 2 rear mech (medium cage) along with Rival shifters and an Absolute Black chainring.
I was out today for a 60 mile ride in the Surrey Hills covering road and single track and had absolutely no problems with the chain dropping, in fact I've not had the chain drop at all wherever I've been riding.
The best way to prevent the chain from dropping is to use a clutch type rear mech and a thick/thin front chainring. You could try one or the other but I know that both together works well.
The problem with the clutch rear mech's is that they're an MTB thing so you can only use an MTB rear mech. Due to issues with different pull ratios between mechs and shifters this only works well with a SRAM shifter and mech as they have the same ratio. As far as I'm aware you can do it with Shimano but you need to use a 9 speed shifter with a 10 speed mech to get it to work.
The thick/thin rings like Absolute Black or Wolftooth will help stop the chain dropping but I'm not sure how well they'll work with a standard rear mech.
You could of course use a front chain guide but they look a but crap
My bike is using a SRAM X0 Type 2 rear mech (medium cage) along with Rival shifters and an Absolute Black chainring.
I was out today for a 60 mile ride in the Surrey Hills covering road and single track and had absolutely no problems with the chain dropping, in fact I've not had the chain drop at all wherever I've been riding.
Firstly I'd be checking you've not been too generous with the chain length.
Secondly I'd discount anything at the back (so long as the mech isn't allowing the chain to become loose) - if it is, see 1), and possibly look at the b screw.
Not sure I understood the above, or even what a clutch type mech is - but there's no such thing as a 10/9/whatever speed rear mech. It's just a rear mech, all the shimano ones pull the same cable ratio (within my living memory at least). The number of speeds is set by the lever - for instance, 1 of my bikes is running an old '9 speed' mech with 10 speed levers. I get 10 perfectly normal indexed gears - and my mountain bike shifters pull the same amount of cable / work just fine with the road mech (shimano, and yes, a long story..)
Lastly, I wonder how you got to 1 at the front - I'd think in terms of chain-line you'd want the single ring to sit somewhere between where the two would have done - if it doesn't - pass! Front mech certanly isn't keeping the chain on either ring on my bike - it doesn't touch except shifting, even tho it's 2x10..
Secondly I'd discount anything at the back (so long as the mech isn't allowing the chain to become loose) - if it is, see 1), and possibly look at the b screw.
Not sure I understood the above, or even what a clutch type mech is - but there's no such thing as a 10/9/whatever speed rear mech. It's just a rear mech, all the shimano ones pull the same cable ratio (within my living memory at least). The number of speeds is set by the lever - for instance, 1 of my bikes is running an old '9 speed' mech with 10 speed levers. I get 10 perfectly normal indexed gears - and my mountain bike shifters pull the same amount of cable / work just fine with the road mech (shimano, and yes, a long story..)
Lastly, I wonder how you got to 1 at the front - I'd think in terms of chain-line you'd want the single ring to sit somewhere between where the two would have done - if it doesn't - pass! Front mech certanly isn't keeping the chain on either ring on my bike - it doesn't touch except shifting, even tho it's 2x10..
Edited by upsidedownmark on Monday 10th March 19:24
upsidedownmark said:
Firstly I'd be checking you've not been too generous with the chain length.
Secondly I'd discount anything at the back (so long as the mech isn't allowing the chain to become loose) - if it is, see 1), and possibly look at the b screw.
Not sure I understood the above, or even what a clutch type mech is - but there's no such thing as a 10/9/whatever speed rear mech. It's just a rear mech, all the shimano ones pull the same cable ratio (within my living memory at least). The number of speeds is set by the lever - for instance, 1 of my bikes is running an old '9 speed' mech with 10 speed levers. I get 10 perfectly normal indexed gears - and my mountain bike shifters pull the same amount of cable / work just fine with the road mech (shimano, and yes, a long story..)
Lastly, I wonder how you got to 1 at the front - I'd think in terms of chain-line you'd want the single ring to sit somewhere between where the two would have done - if it doesn't - pass! Front mech certanly isn't keeping the chain on either ring on my bike - it doesn't touch except shifting, even tho it's 2x10..
That's right, I got it the wrong way round with the 10 speed and 9 speed mech and shifters. If you use a 10 speed road shifter with a 10 speed rear mech, it doesn't work and won't index correctly.Secondly I'd discount anything at the back (so long as the mech isn't allowing the chain to become loose) - if it is, see 1), and possibly look at the b screw.
Not sure I understood the above, or even what a clutch type mech is - but there's no such thing as a 10/9/whatever speed rear mech. It's just a rear mech, all the shimano ones pull the same cable ratio (within my living memory at least). The number of speeds is set by the lever - for instance, 1 of my bikes is running an old '9 speed' mech with 10 speed levers. I get 10 perfectly normal indexed gears - and my mountain bike shifters pull the same amount of cable / work just fine with the road mech (shimano, and yes, a long story..)
Lastly, I wonder how you got to 1 at the front - I'd think in terms of chain-line you'd want the single ring to sit somewhere between where the two would have done - if it doesn't - pass! Front mech certanly isn't keeping the chain on either ring on my bike - it doesn't touch except shifting, even tho it's 2x10..
Edited by upsidedownmark on Monday 10th March 19:24
The clutch rear mech's are explained here:
http://www.bicycling.com/mountainbikecom/bikes-gea...
To get a decent chain line you would need to fit your single ring to the inside of the mounting tabs for the outer ring so the single ring sits more centrally.
At the moment I have a twin ring on the front. I was planning on removing the inner ring and running the larger on the opposite side of the crank arm to get a better chain angle. I had left it as is while I tested the bike in the chiltern hills to see if I needed lower gears. The steepest hills were hard work but I manned up and worked the legs.
Would the better chain angle resolve the problem?
I am running a small cage SRAM force rear mech. The chain was fitted by a professional who built the bike up for me. I would need to check it then...
Would the better chain angle resolve the problem?
I am running a small cage SRAM force rear mech. The chain was fitted by a professional who built the bike up for me. I would need to check it then...
Edited by Batfink on Monday 10th March 20:03
Part of the issue would be with the front chain ring.
Normal front rings are designed with shifting ramps to enable the chain to drop off onto the other ring easier. A single speed specific front ring is designed without the ramps so it helps to keep the chain on. Some rings also have slightly taller teeth to help keep it in place.
Normal front rings are designed with shifting ramps to enable the chain to drop off onto the other ring easier. A single speed specific front ring is designed without the ramps so it helps to keep the chain on. Some rings also have slightly taller teeth to help keep it in place.
neenaw.. gotcha - I did know about those mech's, just not by that name 
Completely agree wrt the chainring. As for chain sizing, there are a few ways - google should help. But mostly look for there being some tension when in the smallest sprocket.
Still pretty sure that shimano MTB and road mech's are completely interchangable, 9 or 10 speed it's the same distance from one end of the cassette to the other - they just cram more gears into the same distance, and all the indexing comes from the lever. Doesn't matter in this case anyhow, and I'm not familiar with SRAM.
Completely agree wrt the chainring. As for chain sizing, there are a few ways - google should help. But mostly look for there being some tension when in the smallest sprocket.
Still pretty sure that shimano MTB and road mech's are completely interchangable, 9 or 10 speed it's the same distance from one end of the cassette to the other - they just cram more gears into the same distance, and all the indexing comes from the lever. Doesn't matter in this case anyhow, and I'm not familiar with SRAM.
upsidedownmark said:
there's no such thing as a 10/9/whatever speed rear mech. It's just a rear mech, all the shimano ones pull the same cable ratio (within my living memory at least). The number of speeds is set by the lever - for instance, 1 of my bikes is running an old '9 speed' mech with 10 speed levers. I get 10 perfectly normal indexed gears
Sorry for the slight thread hijack here but are you saying that it is completely possible to fit a 9sp Shimano Sora 3500 to a 10sp cassette as a replacement for my broken 10sp Tiagra one? I've been considering an upgrade to 105 but can't imagine it would make much of a difference covered in mud at a 'cross race and the Sora kit is a bit cheaper.
pembo said:
Sorry for the slight thread hijack here but are you saying that it is completely possible to fit a 9sp Shimano Sora 3500 to a 10sp cassette as a replacement for my broken 10sp Tiagra one?
I've been considering an upgrade to 105 but can't imagine it would make much of a difference covered in mud at a 'cross race and the Sora kit is a bit cheaper.
Absolutely. So long as you've got 10 speed levers with that 10 speed cassette I've been considering an upgrade to 105 but can't imagine it would make much of a difference covered in mud at a 'cross race and the Sora kit is a bit cheaper.
I've been running a 5yo '9 speed' 105 mech with 10 speed ultegra levers for about 5000 miles. Non issue. Just make sure it's like for like in terms of cage size (short, medium, long) so as it can accommodate your gear range (difference in teeth between smallest and largest gears).
upsidedownmark said:
Absolutely. So long as you've got 10 speed levers with that 10 speed cassette
I've been running a 5yo '9 speed' 105 mech with 10 speed ultegra levers for about 5000 miles. Non issue. Just make sure it's like for like in terms of cage size (short, medium, long) so as it can accommodate your gear range (difference in teeth between smallest and largest gears).
Great, Cheers, everything is Tiagra 10sp so it's an option then.I've been running a 5yo '9 speed' 105 mech with 10 speed ultegra levers for about 5000 miles. Non issue. Just make sure it's like for like in terms of cage size (short, medium, long) so as it can accommodate your gear range (difference in teeth between smallest and largest gears).
richardxjr said:
^That device . NW won't work on a roadbike, not least cos the available chainrings are tiny. I went 1x8 with a single (non ramped) ring, correct chainline, correct chain length, damn thing would drop off every 50miles or so.
The K-Edge?. NW won't work on a roadbike, not least cos the available chainrings are tiny. I went 1x8 with a single (non ramped) ring, correct chainline, correct chain length, damn thing would drop off every 50miles or so.I'm not aware of a limit on chainring size, that's a 44T on a Cyclocross bike, the rear cassette is an 11-32 with a short cage Ultegra mech and it works fine- if it was going to come off then it'd come off during a race, which it hasn't done.
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff