Had a mere today help please
Discussion
I got a new camera today was going to go for a compact as per my other thread but when I went to look I decided on getting s Bridge as it just seemed better value and I liked the feel of it. Nothing special but its enough for what I want at the moment.
So popped upto Oulton Park to try it out. So I took 250+ photos which 99% turned out rubbish, when I didn't end up with just a shot of Armco and grass lots were fuzzy
Im a complete noob so any advice is welcome since I havnt got a clue what I was doing wrong. I tried some on just a normal setting and also tried the sports setting to just to see if that would make a difference.
This is one of the better ones I got. Not brilliant but its a start.
A lot of others weren't very clear at all, This was a real bad one but you get the idea.
So popped upto Oulton Park to try it out. So I took 250+ photos which 99% turned out rubbish, when I didn't end up with just a shot of Armco and grass lots were fuzzy
Im a complete noob so any advice is welcome since I havnt got a clue what I was doing wrong. I tried some on just a normal setting and also tried the sports setting to just to see if that would make a difference.
This is one of the better ones I got. Not brilliant but its a start.
A lot of others weren't very clear at all, This was a real bad one but you get the idea.
Top one not bad, a bit overexposed but you can pull that back and it needs sharpening.
Bottom one - no idea what happened there.
Settings... 'sports' probably gives you a faster shutter speed. Did you see a difference between that and 'normal'?
I think the key, once you get exposure sorted out, is panning action vs shutter speed.
Bottom one - no idea what happened there.
Settings... 'sports' probably gives you a faster shutter speed. Did you see a difference between that and 'normal'?
I think the key, once you get exposure sorted out, is panning action vs shutter speed.
Honestly tracking moving targets like this and pulling of panning shots is going to be a nightmare on anything less than an SLR, even for experienced togs.
You have to make a decision if you are going to freeze action ( sport mode, fast shutter speed), or want motion blur of the background, in which case you have to learn to pan.
Also never trust the cameras metering it ill get it wrong more often than not.
You have to make a decision if you are going to freeze action ( sport mode, fast shutter speed), or want motion blur of the background, in which case you have to learn to pan.
Also never trust the cameras metering it ill get it wrong more often than not.
I think most of the worst shots came when it was on sports mode. Maybe I was doing it wrong tbh I haven't read the manual ( I'm a man ) I was panning with the camera before taking a shot that seemed to work the best.
It's all a learning curve enjoyed it anyway. Thank feck I wasn't using film lol
It's all a learning curve enjoyed it anyway. Thank feck I wasn't using film lol
I think you may find that Sports Mode is tuned towards kids running in a straight line and probably towards you. I have yet to come across a Sports mode that was of any use for motorsport.
In my experience panning with a bridge camera can be OK if you are standing in the inside of a bend with a regular radius so that the moving subject is moving at a relatively consistent speed, not too fast if you pick the right bend, and is at a consistent distance from your lens. In this country that means you are likely to get a lot of shots vehicles moving left to right with gravel and armco in the background.
On a day with good light, preferably from behind you, you should be able to get some decent shots. The hit rate compared to a DSLR may not be great but then the cost will have been less.
In the end it comes down to practice, getting to know the camera and what works vs what doesn't and choosing your locations to your advantage where you can.
In my experience panning with a bridge camera can be OK if you are standing in the inside of a bend with a regular radius so that the moving subject is moving at a relatively consistent speed, not too fast if you pick the right bend, and is at a consistent distance from your lens. In this country that means you are likely to get a lot of shots vehicles moving left to right with gravel and armco in the background.
On a day with good light, preferably from behind you, you should be able to get some decent shots. The hit rate compared to a DSLR may not be great but then the cost will have been less.
In the end it comes down to practice, getting to know the camera and what works vs what doesn't and choosing your locations to your advantage where you can.
Practice is key, can't expect too much first time out! It can be done though, I got some ok results (well they seemed ok at the time... looking back at them now might be another story 
) with a bridge camera for a few years before getting an SLR. The worst thing about them is often the delay between pushing the button and getting the shot, each camera is different so you just have to adapt to that and hit the button early (though newer ones may be better, mine was 5-10 years ago).
For panning shots try setting your shutter to 1/160 and adjust up or down from there depending how it looks. Pre-focus on the part of the corner where you want to take the photo, and keep following through with the pan after you push the button. If it has a viewfinder as well as the screen on the back try using that instead, I always found it better.
) with a bridge camera for a few years before getting an SLR. The worst thing about them is often the delay between pushing the button and getting the shot, each camera is different so you just have to adapt to that and hit the button early (though newer ones may be better, mine was 5-10 years ago).For panning shots try setting your shutter to 1/160 and adjust up or down from there depending how it looks. Pre-focus on the part of the corner where you want to take the photo, and keep following through with the pan after you push the button. If it has a viewfinder as well as the screen on the back try using that instead, I always found it better.
Edited by GravelBen on Sunday 9th March 01:25
Yes, pan before the shot and, more importantly, afterwards.
To help get into this habit use burst mode if the camera has it; shoot 4-5 shots per bike/car to maximise chance of a good shot.That way you'll shoot before the object is where you want it to be and also for a shot or two after - this will help get the panning smooth for the middle shots, and may result in a couple of keepers from the same burst.
ETA: don't forget to put it in AI Server/continuous focus mode.
To help get into this habit use burst mode if the camera has it; shoot 4-5 shots per bike/car to maximise chance of a good shot.That way you'll shoot before the object is where you want it to be and also for a shot or two after - this will help get the panning smooth for the middle shots, and may result in a couple of keepers from the same burst.
ETA: don't forget to put it in AI Server/continuous focus mode.
Edited by kybo on Monday 10th March 23:07
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