London at night - how to shoot better cityscape
Discussion
Took a few pictures from the place I was staying last night which has a city view.
Canon 7D with an 85mm f1.8 lense. The bit of the view I wanted fits perfectly at 85mm so that was ok.....only cropping was top and bottom to remove some foreground and sky to leave it a long narrow image.
Anyway, not to fussed with the colour in the final shot (as I played about with the RAW file) - more interested in if I should expect it sharper?
In order to get any image I was using very long exposures - 20 sec...sometimes up to 30. And a low ISO around 100-200
Would I be better opening up the lens...where would it be sharpest? I was probably around f10 upwards....or raising the ISO (didnt want noise)
I'm no camera expert so only simple advice pleases!!!!
(pic is clearly reduced loads from the original)

Canon 7D with an 85mm f1.8 lense. The bit of the view I wanted fits perfectly at 85mm so that was ok.....only cropping was top and bottom to remove some foreground and sky to leave it a long narrow image.
Anyway, not to fussed with the colour in the final shot (as I played about with the RAW file) - more interested in if I should expect it sharper?
In order to get any image I was using very long exposures - 20 sec...sometimes up to 30. And a low ISO around 100-200
Would I be better opening up the lens...where would it be sharpest? I was probably around f10 upwards....or raising the ISO (didnt want noise)
I'm no camera expert so only simple advice pleases!!!!
(pic is clearly reduced loads from the original)
Please don't take this the wrong way but I think the main issues are compositional rather than technical - it's a very flat, 2D shot with no sense of depth or scale. Trying to work in a foreground, midground and background to your shots should result in a more satisfying image (IMHO).
Tiggsy said:
there wasnt really much light there. if i up the brightness it just goes a uniform grey/brown (which was the actual colour from the light bouncing into the sky)
If there were some cool clouds or something it would have been ok!
Try it again but earlier, so you have a touch of dusk light - it will help to show up the buildings, and hopefully get some cloud action too.If there were some cool clouds or something it would have been ok!
Simpo Two said:
Tiggsy said:
there wasnt really much light there. if i up the brightness it just goes a uniform grey/brown (which was the actual colour from the light bouncing into the sky)
If there were some cool clouds or something it would have been ok!
Try it again but earlier, so you have a touch of dusk light - it will help to show up the buildings, and hopefully get some cloud action too.If there were some cool clouds or something it would have been ok!
No need to worry about the length of exposure since it's static and on a tripod, better to keep the ISO down. Keep your aperture to f/8 or f/11 for optimum sharpness, or stop it all the way down to turn the lights into starbursts. My only other tip is use the self-timer (or a remote) to avoid any vibrations from pressing the shutter.
The biggest difference will be the timing. You want a crisp, clear night with just the right amount of dusk - might take a few goes before you get lucky.
The biggest difference will be the timing. You want a crisp, clear night with just the right amount of dusk - might take a few goes before you get lucky.
Mr Will said:
- it's a very flat, 2D shot with no sense of depth or scale. Trying to work in a foreground, midground and background to your shots should result in a more satisfying image (IMHO).
As you say it's IMHO.These are very 2D and certainly not shot using anything wide:
http://photomichaelwolf.com/#night/2
I think they are wonderful images.
Tiggsy said:
I will play around...but given I was at F15, 30sec, ISO 100
What should I look towards? Higher ISO as well? If its on a tripod what diff does the exposure time make? Serious Q - I have no idea?
You have three parameters to juggle, so start with the most important:What should I look towards? Higher ISO as well? If its on a tripod what diff does the exposure time make? Serious Q - I have no idea?
Most lenses are at their best around f8. Stopping them down more won't make them any sharper, and you don't need any more DOF because it's all the same distance away.
Sooo - I'd start with f8 or maybe 5.6, then pick a low ISO (as you did) to minimise any noise (thinking ahead to possible shadow recovery in processing), and finally the shutter speed is whatever it works out at. With a tripod and nothing moving it's the least important parameter in this case.
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