Gearing...again
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Discussion

S10GTA

Original Poster:

13,784 posts

196 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
Just thinking really

On both my geared bikes I currently run a 39/53 with a 25/12. I can get up just about everything where I live with the current set up, but often out the saddle and grinding near the top of the steeper stuff.

A vast majority of bikes now seem to run a compact, and whilst I don't plan on going for a big change I am just wondering about the merits of fitting a bigger rear cassette, such as 27 or 28. I'm not convinced I really "need" it, but I can't help but think it would just take the edge off the steeper stuff, thus allowing me to spin a bit more.

The question is, am I really going to notice much of a difference?

BOBTEE

1,034 posts

193 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
39-25 gives you 1:1.56
39-27 gives you 1:1.44

I'd say you'd notice that smile

outnumbered

4,877 posts

263 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all

okgo will be along in a minute to tell you to man up a bit & simply try harder... but I've always felt that the traditional 52/42 or 53/39 front setup was substantially overgeared for most recreational cyclists, in that you hardly ever need to use the big ring, as long as you're able to keep up a decent cadence. Racing is obviously different.

Personally I'm much happier with lower gears that let me spin up hills rather than have to get out of the saddle or pedal at 25rpm. So for me, compacts are ideal. In your case, I think a 27 sprocket would also make a worthwhile difference if you want to stick with the traditional front setup.

TwistingMyMelon

6,510 posts

234 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
I had exactly the same issue last summer, I prefer a double, but worried about grinding up the 18%+ climbs, even though I always made it up them fine I thought one day I'd meet one and struggle.

I got a 12-26 (from a 11-25) fitted and this made a nice subtle difference, a 27 would be as low as I needed to go on a 39

I then bought a steel framed compact bike, with a 34-30 lowest gear which I never have used (the gear, not bike!) I hated the compact gearing t first coming from a double, as I found the 34 ring too low, after about 7 months of just riding it I like it more. It will be interesting come Spring when I start rideing my Double equipped bike again.

Having a lower cassette is also more beneficial on cold winters days when you need to spin more to keep the legs warm

The trouble I find with a 34-30 is that the "Bang for buck" on each pedal stroke is so bloody low it would take me ages to climb a hill (even a 20% one) as each pedal stroke is not taking me far, I prefer the Pantani technique of getting up the hill as quick as possible to get out of the pain quicker!

okgo

42,128 posts

227 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
Actually lads, I've just put a 27 on the back!!

But my small ring is a 42 wink Don't agree that you barely need the big ring, I'd say I barely need the small ring round where I live, unless I head out to the Surrey Hills.

In answer to your Q, yes you'll notice a big difference by having 1 extra tooth on the back. Big difference.

Edited by okgo on Wednesday 26th February 15:46

S10GTA

Original Poster:

13,784 posts

196 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
okgo said:
Don't agree that you barely need the big ring, I'd say I barely need the small ring round where I live, unless I head out to the Surrey Hills.

In answer to your Q, yes you'll notice a big difference by having 1 extra tooth on the back. Big difference.

Edited by okgo on Wednesday 26th February 15:46
Ditto, it's pan flat round here unless you hunt for hills. Thanks.

Disco You

3,748 posts

209 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
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Have a okay with the sheldon brown gear calculator. The mph @ rpm is pretty useful.

agentnomad

412 posts

300 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
I have ridden both and have looked at some of the starve section with some hard climbs on them and the better times are on the compact with a higher cadence this also leads to the fact that a higher cadence will produce slightly more power, it my feel like you are PUSHING out more power if you are grinding up a climb but it is easier on the body and faster with a higher cadence. You need to train to ride at a higher cadence and it feels strange at first but it will pay off.

As an exercise try riding up a hill a few times
1. In a low gear with a high cadence seated
2. in a high gear and grinding seated
repeat the above out of the saddle

One difference should be that, one type of effort you should be out of breath the other your legs should be screaming at you, ask yourself which you recover from quicker.

study the data on Garmin or starve etc or if you have a power meter even better ( mine is in Germany for service but intend doing some testing when it returns)

Here is an interesting point a 50 x 11 is a larger gear then a 53 x12

An 11 to 25 block will be slightly lighter then a 12 to 27 or 29 etc. so a small gain there.


Daveyraveygravey

2,112 posts

213 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
OP I had the same set up as you (Campag, right?) until a few months ago and now have a 12 - 27. The change was inspired by a ride in the Surrey Hills with a friend on a compact. He would sit and spin and gradually pull away from me whilst I was up and out the seat bopping away. I would have said before the ride I was a stronger rider but you can't argue when you can't keep up. The 12 - 27 seems to give me the option to stay seated longer.
I think the perfect set up for me would be 52/36 and 11-25 (11-23 would probably be step too far in the wrong direction)

daddy cool

4,107 posts

258 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
Only had a road bike for a year - started off on a compact, and recently "upgraded" to a new Boardman with a 53/39 crank and 11/25 cassette. I must admit, I am struggling at times frown
I'll persevere, and put it down to the fact that the winter has meant I haven't put as many miles in, and also haven't been mountain biking (which tends to beef my thighs up), but I am wondering whether I made a mistake.
Got a Garmin with Cadence sensor at Xmas and have been following advice on here and trying to spin up a bit more - and must admit I am seeing benefits. Though finding it tough to get an average cadence over a ride more than about 80rpm.
Might consider getting a 12-27 cassette then...

Get Karter

1,950 posts

230 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
N.B. many of the short cage racing rear derailleurs will struggle with much over 25 teeth on the back, so check before buying a new cassette.




il sole

287 posts

173 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
I recently changed my rear cassette from a 11-25 to a 12-27. I run campy veloce with a 39-53 chainring. The difference has been really noticeable and very beneficial. I always used to climb in a bigger gear, struggling up out of the saddle, thinking it was the best way (whilst remembering rule no. 5). However, sitting back, opening up my chest a bit more and spinning my little legs away, now on the larger 27 sprocket, is so much quicker and leaves me less out of breath and ready to hit the decent that bit quicker...

My advice to the op, is that it's definitely worthwhile changing the rear cassette...

agentnomad

412 posts

300 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
Another thought Shimano's new chainset (the 4 bolt one) is capable of being fitted with either compact or man size chain rings which means you can change just the rings to swop between the two set ups.

I have two Dura Ace chain set one with compact and one with men's gears fitted,one thing I am going to try and it may not work well is a 34 x 52 but I am going to give it a try (may well study the gear charts first)


agentnomad

412 posts

300 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
Another thought Shimano's new chainset (the 4 bolt one) is capable of being fitted with either compact or man size chain rings which means you can change just the rings to swop between the two set ups.

I have two Dura Ace chain set one with compact and one with men's gears fitted,one thing I am going to try and it may not work well is a 34 x 52 but I am going to give it a try (may well study the gear charts first)


anonymous-user

83 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
quotequote all
S10GTA said:
Just thinking really

On both my geared bikes I currently run a 39/53 with a 25/12. I can get up just about everything where I live with the current set up, but often out the saddle and grinding near the top of the steeper stuff.

A vast majority of bikes now seem to run a compact, and whilst I don't plan on going for a big change I am just wondering about the merits of fitting a bigger rear cassette, such as 27 or 28. I'm not convinced I really "need" it, but I can't help but think it would just take the edge off the steeper stuff, thus allowing me to spin a bit more.

The question is, am I really going to notice much of a difference?
http://www.gear-calculator.com/#

Well compact is ok really. You can partner it with a 23/11 which gives you a tight cassette and top end. Or stick a 28/12 and you can climb anything, literally anything. I did this in Tenerife and despite only ever using it on some 20%+ stuff it was nice to drop into as an escape gear to spin for 30 secs or so. I run standard and 25/12 now but will switch back if and when I head out to Tenerife/Alps etc.