what are the must haves on buying a GTV 2.0 TS
Discussion
I need some advice quickly as Im about to buy a 98 gtv 2.0 ts in a day or so.I am handy with a spanner and am capable of judging a car on general apearance but I know virtually nothing about these cars so would be grateful for advice on specific things to look out for on this model.The car has had a recent water pump and cambelt done,has history and looks to be in good condition(yet to see it).Oh and where can I get cheap insurance from.Many thanks Roberto.
Check the floorpan for rust, early cars beginning to suffer.
Rear suspension can be a problem with worn bushes and ultimately a worn rear subframe which can be a costly fix. If worn car will knock going over bumps and will sit low at the back with excessive neagative camber.
Rear brakes can also seize due to lack of use.
If the belt and water pump have been changed that's good but check for a 'dieselly' sound on start up - this signifies a worn cam variator which cost around £60 but take 3 hours to fit and involve removing the cambelt.
Front tyres tend to wear on the inside edge so what can look fine on the outer edge can be worn smooth on the inner edge.
Check the door glass for alignment, when people close the door pushing the glass it moves the glass out of position in time.
Central locking can be troublesome and the remote fobs will probably have fallen apart by now.
Don't get too hung up about a missing master key (dark red/brown key), you rarely need them.
Nothing else too model specific I can think of.
Rear suspension can be a problem with worn bushes and ultimately a worn rear subframe which can be a costly fix. If worn car will knock going over bumps and will sit low at the back with excessive neagative camber.
Rear brakes can also seize due to lack of use.
If the belt and water pump have been changed that's good but check for a 'dieselly' sound on start up - this signifies a worn cam variator which cost around £60 but take 3 hours to fit and involve removing the cambelt.
Front tyres tend to wear on the inside edge so what can look fine on the outer edge can be worn smooth on the inner edge.
Check the door glass for alignment, when people close the door pushing the glass it moves the glass out of position in time.
Central locking can be troublesome and the remote fobs will probably have fallen apart by now.
Don't get too hung up about a missing master key (dark red/brown key), you rarely need them.
Nothing else too model specific I can think of.
crostonian said:
Check the floorpan for rust, early cars beginning to suffer.
Rear suspension can be a problem with worn bushes and ultimately a worn rear subframe which can be a costly fix. If worn car will knock going over bumps and will sit low at the back with excessive neagative camber.
Rear brakes can also seize due to lack of use.
If the belt and water pump have been changed that's good but check for a 'dieselly' sound on start up - this signifies a worn cam variator which cost around £60 but take 3 hours to fit and involve removing the cambelt.
Front tyres tend to wear on the inside edge so what can look fine on the outer edge can be worn smooth on the inner edge.
Check the door glass for alignment, when people close the door pushing the glass it moves the glass out of position in time.
Central locking can be troublesome and the remote fobs will probably have fallen apart by now.
Don't get too hung up about a missing master key (dark red/brown key), you rarely need them.
Nothing else too model specific I can think of.
variators have jumped in priceRear suspension can be a problem with worn bushes and ultimately a worn rear subframe which can be a costly fix. If worn car will knock going over bumps and will sit low at the back with excessive neagative camber.
Rear brakes can also seize due to lack of use.
If the belt and water pump have been changed that's good but check for a 'dieselly' sound on start up - this signifies a worn cam variator which cost around £60 but take 3 hours to fit and involve removing the cambelt.
Front tyres tend to wear on the inside edge so what can look fine on the outer edge can be worn smooth on the inner edge.
Check the door glass for alignment, when people close the door pushing the glass it moves the glass out of position in time.
Central locking can be troublesome and the remote fobs will probably have fallen apart by now.
Don't get too hung up about a missing master key (dark red/brown key), you rarely need them.
Nothing else too model specific I can think of.
Oh and the handbrake seizes in freezing weather if left on overnight due to water getting into split cables.
Variators are now £120 + unless you get lucky and should not be making any noise.- if you have noise from that area I would b checking the invoices to see who changed the belts and whether they changed the variator at the same time.
Same mechanical setup broadly speaking as the 155 so there is a wealth of information and nutters on www.alfa155.org
Variators are now £120 + unless you get lucky and should not be making any noise.- if you have noise from that area I would b checking the invoices to see who changed the belts and whether they changed the variator at the same time.
Same mechanical setup broadly speaking as the 155 so there is a wealth of information and nutters on www.alfa155.org
Edited by arguti on Friday 17th January 19:10
rob07 said:
Thanks for the replies,will post pictures if I buy this one.Also is it the variator that can make the diesel noise if bad or should there be any kind of noise from it.
You can't hear the variator unless it's knackered.If it's shot, the engine sounds just like a diesel when first started from cold, then they go quiet.
Changing the spark plugs is a very expensive pastime, which is rarely done...
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