1x9 / 1x10 groups?

[Gizmoish]

Is it actually possible to buy a single chain ring group set as a single thing? Apart from XX1 - can't afford it. Everything I find suggests buying Deore and flogging off rings and FD.

Getting arsey because I can't ride with one functioning thumb and figured if I build a nice light simple forest bike I can go scare the wildlife. Chinese carbon frame/rigid forks, 32t at the front and 11-36 at the back will see me over most stuff... Might even mount both brakes on one side or build a prototype single-lever two-wheel braking system...

[Fluffsri]

I rode with 1 x 10 for a while, really no problem at all. I used a Middleburn Uno setup. Not cheap new but around £100 2nd hand. Look on Chain reaction Im sure Race Face do a single ring set up.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cranksets?f=225...

[Engineer1]

IF you need special kit a LBS may be the way to go as you maywell get access to the parts someone upgrading to XX1 has taken off,

[ecsrobin]

You can use a normal crank for the setup no specialist kit required just unbolt the small chainring from a 2x9/10 setup

[Gumstabber]

I just built a 1x10 ragley blue big.

Used a standard 11-36 rear cassette and shifter. a set of race face cranks I bought second hand and then simply strapped one of the AMAZING Race Face 30T narrow wide chain rings to it. I'm now enjoying hammering it around bike park wales, no need for chain guides and no dropped chains.

[P-Jay]

the off the shelf 1x10 will no doubt trickle down to XX, XO, X9 etc soon.

the 'big thing' about XX1 is the 11th cog on the back, not the whole 1x thing, that's pretty easy.

To be honest the 1x10 isn't very hard to do at all, all you're doing it ditching the granny (and outer ring if you have one) in favour of a wide-spread cassette, unless you've got thighs like twiglets you can 'get away' with a 30x36 1st gear by using the something like an SLX / XT Cassette and one of the Raceface Narrow Wide rings. Why anyone would want or need a 28x40 1st is beyond me, that's a horribly low gear.

[Gumstabber]

If you get one of the Race Face rings then they only come in 104mm BCD so make sure you get the right cranks

[BOBTEE]

One of the owners of Hope runs both brakes from one lever, might be worth contacting them?

[Watchman]

Hydraulic brakes? If so, I'm sure a simply Y-piece is possible to connect both brakes up. The main problem with this is that the pressure will be equal to both brakes. This is rarely a desirable thing for bicycles but you could potentially make/commission the equivalent of a brake proportioning valves for bikes (i.e. smaller than a car version). I imagine you'd want any reduction/limitation on the front if offroad, although it's less clear (to me) which way you'd want it for road use. For a simpler solution, you might be able to juggle different pads to some effect.

Something like this:

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...

Racing cars use a variable version but these usually require two separate master cylinders.

[shouldbworking]

Shimano Zee sounds like what you need?

[neenaw]

How about a gripshift shifter rather than a thumbshifter for the rear mech?

I know you can get hold of thumb operated rear brake and clutch master cylinders for motorbikes but I'm not sure if the pressures and amount of fluid moved by them would be a bit much for a mountain bike. If it worked you could have thumb brake for the rear with a standard lever both on the same side.

Another possibility would be something like a Rockshox poploc lever running with a rear cable operated disc brake like a BB7. As long as you disconnect the lockout part of the lever it should be enough to operate a brake cable as you don't need a huge amount of cable movement if they're set up correctly.

[Smartboy]

Or a Gripshift with the ratchet indexing mechanism removed, linked to a cable-operated disc brake?
Standard brake and gear setup on the side with the working thumb?