MTB Trail riding - 1x9 or 1x10 ?
Discussion
I'm more interested in gear range than number of ratios, if I could get the range of gearing I have with my 1x10 with a 1x5 I'd have the five, I never change one gear at a time anyway.
10's worth getting simply because anything X5/Deore and above that's 9sp is basically old stock and might not be available next time you need a bit.
10's worth getting simply because anything X5/Deore and above that's 9sp is basically old stock and might not be available next time you need a bit.
P-Jay said:
I'm more interested in gear range than number of ratios, if I could get the range of gearing I have with my 1x10 with a 1x5 I'd have the five, I never change one gear at a time anyway.
10's worth getting simply because anything X5/Deore and above that's 9sp is basically old stock and might not be available next time you need a bit.
I agree - but 9sp is almost half the price to 10sp. Don't think 9sp will be going out anytime soon.10's worth getting simply because anything X5/Deore and above that's 9sp is basically old stock and might not be available next time you need a bit.
Just get 1x10 as there are loads of 10sp bits on ebay.
IIRC you will need a new shifter, cassette and chain. You should be able to use your rear derailleur..
I went from 9sp to 10 and it cost a fair bit but I am pleased with the outcome.
As others have said though, you might be able to get all the ratios on a 9sp.
IIRC you will need a new shifter, cassette and chain. You should be able to use your rear derailleur..
I went from 9sp to 10 and it cost a fair bit but I am pleased with the outcome.
As others have said though, you might be able to get all the ratios on a 9sp.
In my opinion it’s definitely worth going 10sp. If you fit a narrow/wide chainring and a Zee clutch mech, with an appropriately shortened chain, you won’t need to run a chain guide and you end up with an almost silent drive train that won’t drop the chain when the going gets rough. Fitting a narrow/wide chainring is the best upgrade I’ve made this year.
Pablo16v said:
In my opinion it’s definitely worth going 10sp. If you fit a narrow/wide chainring and a Zee clutch mech, with an appropriately shortened chain, you won’t need to run a chain guide and you end up with an almost silent drive train that won’t drop the chain when the going gets rough. Fitting a narrow/wide chainring is the best upgrade I’ve made this year.
Sound good, which chainring did you upgrade ?Look like I'm better off getting 10sp rather than 9sp.
My issue with 10 speed is that it's an even thinner chain and more work for the rear mech.
I have no issues with 9 speed (x3) and couldn't ask for a better range of gears and/or smoother shifting.
Like the 29er thing, I can't help feeling 10 speed is just another way of making us buy new kit.
I have no issues with 9 speed (x3) and couldn't ask for a better range of gears and/or smoother shifting.
Like the 29er thing, I can't help feeling 10 speed is just another way of making us buy new kit.
craggers said:
Pablo16v said:
In my opinion it’s definitely worth going 10sp. If you fit a narrow/wide chainring and a Zee clutch mech, with an appropriately shortened chain, you won’t need to run a chain guide and you end up with an almost silent drive train that won’t drop the chain when the going gets rough. Fitting a narrow/wide chainring is the best upgrade I’ve made this year.
Sound good, which chainring did you upgrade ?Look like I'm better off getting 10sp rather than 9sp.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/race-face-single-chainring... .. 104 x 30t for £45.
What range cassette are you using?
I am thinking about a new bike, possibly building on an On-one ti 456 and had been looking at the 2x10 setups, but beginning to think as 36-11 cassettes are now common place if a single ring maybe a better idea. I spent the weekend at Coed y Brenin and basically only used the middle and little ring, mostly just on the biggest 3 rings of the cassette 32-12 so the chain was kept nice and tight.
I am thinking about a new bike, possibly building on an On-one ti 456 and had been looking at the 2x10 setups, but beginning to think as 36-11 cassettes are now common place if a single ring maybe a better idea. I spent the weekend at Coed y Brenin and basically only used the middle and little ring, mostly just on the biggest 3 rings of the cassette 32-12 so the chain was kept nice and tight.
Herman Toothrot said:
What range cassette are you using?
I am thinking about a new bike, possibly building on an On-one ti 456 and had been looking at the 2x10 setups, but beginning to think as 36-11 cassettes are now common place if a single ring maybe a better idea. I spent the weekend at Coed y Brenin and basically only used the middle and little ring, mostly just on the biggest 3 rings of the cassette 32-12 so the chain was kept nice and tight.
I'm using a Sram 12-36 10 speed cassette but I've removed the top 4 rings and replaced them with a General Lee 40t adapter.I am thinking about a new bike, possibly building on an On-one ti 456 and had been looking at the 2x10 setups, but beginning to think as 36-11 cassettes are now common place if a single ring maybe a better idea. I spent the weekend at Coed y Brenin and basically only used the middle and little ring, mostly just on the biggest 3 rings of the cassette 32-12 so the chain was kept nice and tight.
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/General-Lee-Wide-rang...
Pablo16v said:
I'm using a Sram 12-36 10 speed cassette but I've removed the top 4 rings and replaced them with a General Lee 40t adapter.
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/General-Lee-Wide-rang...
Ok, thats quite a good spread then http://www.pinkbike.com/news/General-Lee-Wide-rang...

30/40 is almost (near as) the same as my current 22/32.
Although it'd be nice to get rid of the front shifter although it maybe easier to just got for the 2x10 XT setup, hum need to think about this one.
Cheers
HT
Interesting reading re thick/thin chainring.
I was running with a superstar front top guide on a 1x10 setup and I am throwing the chain like crazy, so sold my mech and put a clutch mech on. It's an improvment but still throwing 2-3 times a ride. The only thing is to swap the ring out for a thick/thin. Are they really that good and will I be able to scrap the front guide and have a truly un-throwable chain? Its on a hard tail and I don't use it lightly over the rough Btw.
The chain is as short as I dare take it.
I was running with a superstar front top guide on a 1x10 setup and I am throwing the chain like crazy, so sold my mech and put a clutch mech on. It's an improvment but still throwing 2-3 times a ride. The only thing is to swap the ring out for a thick/thin. Are they really that good and will I be able to scrap the front guide and have a truly un-throwable chain? Its on a hard tail and I don't use it lightly over the rough Btw.
The chain is as short as I dare take it.
Herman Toothrot said:
Pablo16v said:
I'm using a Sram 12-36 10 speed cassette but I've removed the top 4 rings and replaced them with a General Lee 40t adapter.
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/General-Lee-Wide-rang...
Ok, thats quite a good spread then http://www.pinkbike.com/news/General-Lee-Wide-rang...

30/40 is almost (near as) the same as my current 22/32.
Although it'd be nice to get rid of the front shifter although it maybe easier to just got for the 2x10 XT setup, hum need to think about this one.
Cheers
HT
RPM – Thick thin rings really are that good. In 3 ½ months I’ve dropped the chain just the once (on a DH course), and when I stopped to put it back on I realised the clutch mech was off so I think that was probably the contributing factor. Most users seem to manage without any sort of chain device so there’s a very good chance you’ll be able to ditch the front guide.
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