Battery Rating
Discussion
Hi All,
Still chasing why I cannot get my S3 started but now have the dilemma of replacing the battery which has taken a battering recently in the failed attempts so far. Looking through the literature, I cannot find a rating of the lump that should be in the car (currently have a VARTA 610A 63AHr) which seems to have been fine but any advice gratefully received.
Thanks,
Mark V
Still chasing why I cannot get my S3 started but now have the dilemma of replacing the battery which has taken a battering recently in the failed attempts so far. Looking through the literature, I cannot find a rating of the lump that should be in the car (currently have a VARTA 610A 63AHr) which seems to have been fine but any advice gratefully received.
Thanks,
Mark V
I think a problem with most S's is that they only get occasional use. I know a few owners give them daily use but few of us find that practical. Secondly, being a glass reinforced plastic car also leads to some problems with the more difficult electrics inherent in such cars. Thirdly the Cologne is a big heavy lump to turn over at the best of times.
My advice would be simple: Measure your battery tray and get the highest rated battery that will fit in that tray (mine is identical to that from my diesel Rover). Then fit one of the purpose made battery isolator switches to prevent any power leakage when the car is standing. The removable 'key' type isolator makes a good added security device.
I had a good bit of trouble getting the battery retainer to hold properly, a couple of times I found it had come off. I now use a good cam lock security strap, easy to use, easy to remove battery, doesnt corrode and very secure. Checked after 2 years use and it is absolutely fine. I have seen others using this method and my MOT man actually commented on how much better it was than the retainers in many cars!
My advice would be simple: Measure your battery tray and get the highest rated battery that will fit in that tray (mine is identical to that from my diesel Rover). Then fit one of the purpose made battery isolator switches to prevent any power leakage when the car is standing. The removable 'key' type isolator makes a good added security device.
I had a good bit of trouble getting the battery retainer to hold properly, a couple of times I found it had come off. I now use a good cam lock security strap, easy to use, easy to remove battery, doesnt corrode and very secure. Checked after 2 years use and it is absolutely fine. I have seen others using this method and my MOT man actually commented on how much better it was than the retainers in many cars!
...also just check the earth connection from the battery as if the connection to the chassis is corroded it will give the same symptoms of apparently low voltage.
Got to the stage where my starter just clicked with a full battery. This was one easy and free solution the other issue was the starter had worn and couldnt take the power it needed...battery was fine all along.
Got to the stage where my starter just clicked with a full battery. This was one easy and free solution the other issue was the starter had worn and couldnt take the power it needed...battery was fine all along.
I'd also check the new battery has a square base withno flange for a clamp to fit and also make sure the terimals are the same way round as the one you take off in case the leads won't quite stretch!!!
I'll leave you all to summise how I know these two little gems after sevaral trips to the battery suppliers!!! :-o
I'll leave you all to summise how I know these two little gems after sevaral trips to the battery suppliers!!! :-o
Thanks all, original battery retainer swapped for a camlock strap some 15yrs ago. The battery -ve earth, 2 earth points in the engine bay on the outrigger diagonals and the earthing point on the engine block as well as the one in the near side rear wheel arch (are there any more that I've missed?) are all clean and bright so baffled as to why one day fuel pump was priming, the next it was not - pump is working, relay replaced and proved working, fuses are still intact. BARHHHH!
My S3 is my every day commute although i've been working overseas 9mths in every 12mths for last 3 yrs so body off restoration when I have been at home has taken precidence, it has been MOT'd and running since. Now back working in the UK so need to get it going otherwise the pushie will get a good run out instead! Anyway back to the original question, thoughts as to what the battery rating should be?
My S3 is my every day commute although i've been working overseas 9mths in every 12mths for last 3 yrs so body off restoration when I have been at home has taken precidence, it has been MOT'd and running since. Now back working in the UK so need to get it going otherwise the pushie will get a good run out instead! Anyway back to the original question, thoughts as to what the battery rating should be?
I bought size 096 which fitted exactly, the calcium type are better if the vehicle is used infrequently as they are more resistant to sulphation.
Halfords hbc096
Startup Power: 680 Amps
AH Value: 75
Reserve capacity: 135
Bench Charge: 7.4 Amps
Weight (kg): 17.73
Dimensions (LxDxH): 278x175x190mm
Guarantee: 4 Years
Rob.
Halfords hbc096
Startup Power: 680 Amps
AH Value: 75
Reserve capacity: 135
Bench Charge: 7.4 Amps
Weight (kg): 17.73
Dimensions (LxDxH): 278x175x190mm
Guarantee: 4 Years
Rob.
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