Speed Six Slave Cylinder replacement?

[Tom The Cat]

Hi all,

i think my clutch , (slave cylinder) has gone ...

when Engine is in Idle , i can't switch 1 , 2 , reverse or any gear ... with great pressure on the gearstick sometimes it will happen with mechanical sounds from the gearbox
in driving mode its very heavy to switch gears, too or nearly unable ...

does anybody made check-list (for Idiots ) how to change slave cylinder and clutch?

were are the trickie points?

i will made by my self with a good mechanic (Fiat and VW).

thanks for reply's

TTC

[Sagi Badger]

Tom,

Fairly easy. Get it up high though as you will need to get the bell housing bolts and these can be tricky to reach and turn as the angle of approach is not good, you will need tough hex drive keys on 1/2" drive extensions. Exhausts will need to come off, as will the gear lever and trim so do first while you are clean, look for reversing light switch wires on top of the box and unplug carefully, the plug is fragile. Remove the exhausts from the cats or the cats from the manifold if you can't pull the pipes back, have a new pair of Mikalor clamps ready as these can snap. When you take the under tray off cable tie the anti roll bar up to the chassis as it can drop. The clutch feed line is on the side of the gearbox and long enough to allow the gearbox to land on the floor, cut cable ties etc. to allow slack, it is routed to the pedal box, the bleed nipple is on top of the box and runs to the top of the starter and may be seized.

You may not have a release bearing problem, it could be the spring spacers in the cover not keeping the plates apart and the clutch dragging.

Aligning the plates will need a good eye if you don't have an old input shaft to align the splines. I have done it four times by eye and only missed once... this was on the bench as well, the other three times I was under the car on my own! Don't miss the earth strap on top and cable bracket to starter.

My old clutch was dragging but I got another 4k from it by adjusting the pedal stop. Be careful as this is a bit touch n go if you do. I replaced my release bearing with a Cosworth T5 conversion, meant machining the bell housing, and fitted a 7 1/2 clutch with aluminium cover on superlight flywheel. It picks up well now and changes gear much quicker as the inertia from the plates has been reduced meaning the syncros don't work so hard.

Check cats for melting and the chassis rail while you are there, over heating can burn the powder coating off the chassis. If you want to save heat getting in add some insulation to the tunnel while the box is out.

Best of luck and have a few cans of beer ready!

J

[Tom The Cat]

Sagi Badger said:

Tom,

Fairly easy. Get it up high though as you will need to get the bell housing bolts and these can be tricky to reach and turn as the angle of approach is not good, you will need tough hex drive keys on 1/2" drive extensions. Exhausts will need to come off, as will the gear lever and trim so do first while you are clean, look for reversing light switch wires on top of the box and unplug carefully, the plug is fragile. Remove the exhausts from the cats or the cats from the manifold if you can't pull the pipes back, have a new pair of Mikalor clamps ready as these can snap. When you take the under tray off cable tie the anti roll bar up to the chassis as it can drop. The clutch feed line is on the side of the gearbox and long enough to allow the gearbox to land on the floor, cut cable ties etc. to allow slack, it is routed to the pedal box, the bleed nipple is on top of the box and runs to the top of the starter and may be seized.

You may not have a release bearing problem, it could be the spring spacers in the cover not keeping the plates apart and the clutch dragging.

Aligning the plates will need a good eye if you don't have an old input shaft to align the splines. I have done it four times by eye and only missed once... this was on the bench as well, the other three times I was under the car on my own! Don't miss the earth strap on top and cable bracket to starter.

My old clutch was dragging but I got another 4k from it by adjusting the pedal stop. Be careful as this is a bit touch n go if you do. I replaced my release bearing with a Cosworth T5 conversion, meant machining the bell housing, and fitted a 7 1/2 clutch with aluminium cover on superlight flywheel. It picks up well now and changes gear much quicker as the inertia from the plates has been reduced meaning the syncros don't work so hard.

Check cats for melting and the chassis rail while you are there, over heating can burn the powder coating off the chassis. If you want to save heat getting in add some insulation to the tunnel while the box is out.

Best of luck and have a few cans of beer ready!

J

Hi J

thanks for your post!

and your Tipps! as well.

today at 14.00h I started and now the Gearbox is out ,and the Bellhouse as well.

let's have look on that Clutch-Spider it lost some teeths.

First Pic.



Second Pic.



Third Pic.



Pic 4

I noticed that RP Slave very easily went into the Bell House through.

Is this normal?

I thought it should go a little harder !

But, maybe this is normal??

Does anybody have experience about these?

I blew air into the line from the slave master, to check whether it is tight.
The Bleeding line and closed.

result: no air goes out! ... But is that enough?



First I pressed the outer ring off the Bellhouse , cleaned it very well and than put the new RP Slave in...



Yes , but I have a little bad feeling in my stomach, about that the RP Slave very easily went into the Bell House hole through.


But maybe ,you tell that's exactly the way it goes !!!!


Thanks for REPLY'S
TTC

Edited by Tom The Cat on Thursday 5th September 18:36

[twinreal]

Don't you want to change the clutch itself as there went some fingers and much wear on the remaining ones ?

[Sagi Badger]

Tom,

The fingers missing is really not good, it is very bad.... New cover, plates etc. needed.

I don't think you have a problem with the new slave but to test you could hook up the bell housing under the car with a clamp on the bearing or maybe a flat bar bolted across the face of the bell housing and pack the bearing so it can't pop out/over travel, and pressurise with the clutch pedal. No leaks = OK. Failing this fit the bell housing before the box and see if the clutch operates, the plates will fall down but with an assistant you can realign with the pressure on the pedal.

Good luck


J

[Geoff Ashcroft]

Looking at the missing fingers on the clutch cover, you need to throw the entire clutch assembly away and fit all new components. There are no short cuts.

[VARLEYHYD]

Tom The Cat said:

Pic 4

I noticed that RP Slave very easily went into the Bell House through.

Is this normal?

I thought it should go a little harder !

I am pretty certain the slave is fitted incorrectly and should be at 90 degrees anti clock to that in the photo as the ports may not line up

G

[Tom The Cat]

VARLEYHYD said:

I am pretty certain the slave is fitted incorrectly and should be at 90 degrees anti clock to that in the photo as the ports may not line up

G

Hello Graham,

You've been absolutely right!

This was a just for a test, after the test, i've turn the RP Slave 90 degrees anti clock.
The 2 inner holes form the RP Slave have 90 degrees to each other,i guess... and so one of them will match to the outer hole of the Bellhouse.
isn't it?

Thanks TTC

[Tom The Cat]

Geoff Ashcroft said:

Looking at the missing fingers on the clutch cover, you need to throw the entire clutch assembly away and fit all new components. There are no short cuts.

Hi Geoff,

Yes,i found them in the old >> Clutch , but I replaced them to a new one.

Thanks TTC

[Tom The Cat]

twinreal said:

Don't you want to change the clutch itself as there went some fingers and much wear on the remaining ones ?

Hi Twinreal

Yes I did , the old is out and new one is in.

Thanks TTC

[Tom The Cat]

Sagi Badger said:

Tom,

The fingers missing is really not good, it is very bad.... New cover, plates etc. needed.

I don't think you have a problem with the new slave but to test you could hook up the bell housing under the car with a clamp on the bearing or maybe a flat bar bolted across the face of the bell housing and pack the bearing so it can't pop out/over travel, and pressurise with the clutch pedal. No leaks = OK. Failing this fit the bell housing before the box and see if the clutch operates, the plates will fall down but with an assistant you can realign with the pressure on the pedal.

Good luck


J

Hi J

put a new one in .....

everything works fine but,

1 - 5 Gear switch fine, but the reverse do some awful noise

i think my reverse Synchro is over.
well,it crashes maybe 10 - 12 Times, because I had to shift to reverse ..... you'll know

fk, after all this work.
So i will keep an eye on it, but i think the time will come and Gearbox must out again.

Thanks
TTC

[LeeT350c]

Hi. The RP slave can be a little tricky when it comes to blessing.

Bless again and if it still crunches you could try extending the master
cylinder push rod a little to give more fluid into the system and a bit
more push on the clutch to ensure fully disengaged whilst your shifting.

To do this remove the pedal cover plate. You will see the rod that connects
the master cylinder to the pedal. At the pedal end release the locknut and wind
the rod out of the pedal around 4mm ish making the rod longer and lock the nut up.

Refit the cover plate and give it a try. This little tweak also works when the clutch
is half worn and starts to crunch a little as there is no auto adjustment in the fluid
presssure side to compensate for any wear.

Cheers

Lee

[Sagi Badger]

Tom,

All good that it is back in. The crunch in reverse is the clutch dragging slightly. I think everyone will agree, hence most people flick into 5th to stop the input shaft then into reverse quickly. This can wear the syncro's but really only an issue when you have lots of drag.
Lots of ways of checking, back wheel up, clutch pedal down in gear etc. but try to avoid over travelling the release into the fingers as this will result in broken fingers again.

Do a few miles and see if it still drags.

J

[Tom The Cat]

Sagi Badger said:

Tom,

All good that it is back in. The crunch in reverse is the clutch dragging slightly. I think everyone will agree, hence most people flick into 5th to stop the input shaft then into reverse quickly. This can wear the syncro's but really only an issue when you have lots of drag.
Lots of ways of checking, back wheel up, clutch pedal down in gear etc. but try to avoid over travelling the release into the fingers as this will result in broken fingers again.

Do a few miles and see if it still drags.

J

Hi J

Yes we will see .....time gona heal wounds;)
I'll do a little ride to Luino "Lago Maggiore" Italy, ... on Wednesday.
That's a good test drive ..... 420 miles.
Thanks J
TTC

[Dave85chim]

Tom The Cat said:

Hello Graham,

You've been absolutely right!

This was a just for a test, after the test, i've turn the RP Slave 90 degrees anti clock.
The 2 inner holes form the RP Slave have 90 degrees to each other,i guess... and so one of them will match to the outer hole of the Bellhouse.
isn't it?

Thanks TTC

Morning all - i am bumping this as i have a replace Rp slave. The clutch feed and bleed are 90 degrees in bell housing. But the RP salve itself they are 180 degrees? Do I have the wrong slave?








Any guidance welcomed