Starting problems - 3200
Discussion
A question for 3200 drivers (or ex-drivers).
Have you ever had a problem starting the car when the engine is still warm?
I've had the car now for 3 months and done about 4000 miles so it's had plenty of stsrts in that time but on 4 occasions it wouldn't start.
If I leave it for a couple of hours it will then start straight away.
Trouble is, last week I was on a multi storey car park so all I could do was stick some more money in the ticket machine and wander around for a further 2 hours (it'd been 1.5 hours since I'd left it and it was still quite warm).
I definitely don't flood it as I always start it with my foot on the brake
Any idea what's going on and how I could start it sooner?
PS The starter turns over well but the engine won't start.
Have you ever had a problem starting the car when the engine is still warm?
I've had the car now for 3 months and done about 4000 miles so it's had plenty of stsrts in that time but on 4 occasions it wouldn't start.
If I leave it for a couple of hours it will then start straight away.
Trouble is, last week I was on a multi storey car park so all I could do was stick some more money in the ticket machine and wander around for a further 2 hours (it'd been 1.5 hours since I'd left it and it was still quite warm).
I definitely don't flood it as I always start it with my foot on the brake
Any idea what's going on and how I could start it sooner?
PS The starter turns over well but the engine won't start.
I've had that problem a couple of times.
The main issue is not the engine, but the diagnostic check that the car runs each time it is started.
Basically, when you trun the ignition on, do not just start the car. Let all the dash lights go off and then, with clutch depressed and out of gear, start the car.
Since I adopted this procedure, I haven't had the problem again.
No sarky comments please. This advice came from two separate Maserati mechanics.
The main issue is not the engine, but the diagnostic check that the car runs each time it is started.
Basically, when you trun the ignition on, do not just start the car. Let all the dash lights go off and then, with clutch depressed and out of gear, start the car.
Since I adopted this procedure, I haven't had the problem again.
No sarky comments please. This advice came from two separate Maserati mechanics.
Agree - I've had a relucantance to start if the car has not run through all of its diagnostics but never if I have let the checks complete before starting.
Also since I made a habit of this I have stopped getting the spurious error messages I used to experience occassionally.
Hadn't heard the bit about depressing the clutch though.
Surely you could not flood a car with such sophisticated electronic fuel injection anyway???
Chris
Also since I made a habit of this I have stopped getting the spurious error messages I used to experience occassionally.
Hadn't heard the bit about depressing the clutch though.
Surely you could not flood a car with such sophisticated electronic fuel injection anyway???
Chris
chris_n said:
Hadn't heard the bit about depressing the clutch though.
Recommended in the handbook. Same for the 355 I used to have. If nothing else, it stops you ramming a wall/person if it happens to be in gear.
chris_n said:
Surely you could not flood a car with such sophisticated electronic fuel injection anyway???
Oh yes you can. Try it.
A few months back Mr Tony recommended that I let all the lights go out, which I always do.
I check the oil level and keep it just below max, the oil pressure is way over to the max when driving.
It's automatic so I can't depress the clutch.
Bit of a head scratcher cos it doesn't happen very often.
It's never happened, for instance, when I've filled up with petrol and if anything it's hotter then - more when I've left it for maybe 30 mins to an hour.
EDIT - I'll check if it runs hot when I'm on my way home.
Daft thought - if it's parked close up to a wall, would this prevent it from cooling or would those big holes in the bonnet let the heat out?
>> Edited by bad loser on Friday 22 October 16:19
>> Edited by bad loser on Friday 22 October 16:20
I check the oil level and keep it just below max, the oil pressure is way over to the max when driving.
It's automatic so I can't depress the clutch.
Bit of a head scratcher cos it doesn't happen very often.
It's never happened, for instance, when I've filled up with petrol and if anything it's hotter then - more when I've left it for maybe 30 mins to an hour.
EDIT - I'll check if it runs hot when I'm on my way home.
Daft thought - if it's parked close up to a wall, would this prevent it from cooling or would those big holes in the bonnet let the heat out?
>> Edited by bad loser on Friday 22 October 16:19
>> Edited by bad loser on Friday 22 October 16:20
Out of interest does it happen when your tank is under a quarter empty?
I understand that it is common for 3200's to be "temperamental" if the fuel level dips below a quarter tank.
Another point. I had the same problem with an automatic car (not a 3200), thinking about it. Bloody thing would never start when hot. Turned out to be a fuse in the gearbox that shorted out when hot. It confused the car into thinking the car was in "drive" rather than "park". Next time it happens, try shifting the car into neutral and see if it starts. In retrospect, this is most likely the problem (from my (limited) experience).
I understand that it is common for 3200's to be "temperamental" if the fuel level dips below a quarter tank.
Another point. I had the same problem with an automatic car (not a 3200), thinking about it. Bloody thing would never start when hot. Turned out to be a fuse in the gearbox that shorted out when hot. It confused the car into thinking the car was in "drive" rather than "park". Next time it happens, try shifting the car into neutral and see if it starts. In retrospect, this is most likely the problem (from my (limited) experience).
v12v8 said:
I understand that it is common for 3200's to be "temperamental" if the fuel level dips below a quarter tank.
This is subjectively true - certainly my dealer recommended that I never let the car run below 1/4 tank. They said 'beacuse crap in the tank might hurt the engine' - I took that with a pinch of salt - but maybe they just meant this...
never had the problem myself (apart form letting the diagnostics finish - they don't appreciate being interrupted - but only take 3 seconds or so so no big deal...)
On this topic, anyone else noticed that the 'fuel low' light doesn't come on when you're driving - only when you start the car with low fuel? (or maybe thats just me....)
If it were a Caterham I'd say it was the starter motor - could still be the case with your 3200. I had similar problems with my 911 - intermittent starting - often when warm - diagnosed as a starter motor problem and a new one fixed it. The symptoms suggested it was the immobiliser though, so get it check out by a decent autoelectrician before throwing money at it.
mr_tony said:
Mr Tony - my fuel warning light doesn't come on until I turn off the engine, so it's not just you.
Guess I'd better start documenting these quirks!
Think it does when you're really really low on fuel... Sure I've seen it when driving. After getting in the car with it near empty, then going on a long drive.
Also FYI the oil level check is apparently activeated when you fuel up ie when the tank flap is opened! Due to the car 'knowing' its on level ground.
Can anyone advise me on this:
After about 30 mins motoway I pulled up at traffic lights to see 'check engine'light on. Whilst trying to pull away from lights I could only go at idel revs. A quick off and back on and everything has been fine since. Somebody thought as with 355 the Cats had got a bit hot.
After about 30 mins motoway I pulled up at traffic lights to see 'check engine'light on. Whilst trying to pull away from lights I could only go at idel revs. A quick off and back on and everything has been fine since. Somebody thought as with 355 the Cats had got a bit hot.
Darren, only time I had something similar, it turned out to be the potentiometer in the accelerator (this brings on the engine warning light).
It required me to reset the accelerator "brain" as follows: turn off engine, depress accelerator fully for 30 seconds, take off for 30s, depress fully for 30s, take off for 30s, restart the car. This cured the problem. The warning light went out after 4 further "starts".
N
It required me to reset the accelerator "brain" as follows: turn off engine, depress accelerator fully for 30 seconds, take off for 30s, depress fully for 30s, take off for 30s, restart the car. This cured the problem. The warning light went out after 4 further "starts".
N
Other check engine light worries can be cured by disconnecting the battery (you'll probably set oiff the car alarm when you do this!) and reconnecting. (just like windows!) IF you still ahve a problem when the car boots up again, then it's time to go to the dealer.
Never had this myself though, had check engine a couple of times - always because I've started the car before it finished the diagnostic checks.
Never had this myself though, had check engine a couple of times - always because I've started the car before it finished the diagnostic checks.
I've even had the warning light over to the right (sort of a car with a lock stuck to it) come on after filling up once - I thought I'd left the petrol flap open.
When I read the manual it stated that the car was running a check on the keys.
Or maybe I'm remembering it wrongly.
Mr T - time to get that quirk thread started.
How about this one.
After heavy rain, you open the side window so you can see better and water pours over your right shoulder. (Or left if you're the passenger).
When I read the manual it stated that the car was running a check on the keys.
Or maybe I'm remembering it wrongly.
Mr T - time to get that quirk thread started.
How about this one.
After heavy rain, you open the side window so you can see better and water pours over your right shoulder. (Or left if you're the passenger).
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