Tuscan boot lock solenoid replacement

[markbeard]

Hi there - first post so please be gentle.

I wonder if anyone can advise on the procedure to replace the boot solenoid and latch on a 2001 Tuscan 4.0 ?

My car has the big 'bung' on the right hand side of the boot (when standing at the rear of the car looking in) but the solenoid is way over on the left, the only thing on the left side (where there might be a bung) is a multicd changer, i have removed it and looks like there is a cut out for an access panel but it doesnt seem to move (i havnt unscrewed the CD changer bracket though so possibly something underneath there. This is my first TVR and only had it 3 days and the boot lock has given up (i guess this is what TVR ownership is about eh?) - anyway any advice on how to replace the solenoid etc is very welcome (i have a new latch on solenoid on order so please assume new parts) - also i have shorted across the boot switch pins with a coathanger through the access 'way' and the solenoid didnt fire so i'm pretty sure thats the fault but until i can get behind the badge switch and take it off i'm a bit stuck.

Thanks all.

Mark.

[robsco]

Before you replace anything, remove the grommet and put your hand through the access hole and get a hold of the arm which pulls the boot latch. It has a little rubber shroud around it and if it gets caught up it can stop the motor working even though the switch is activating.

[robsco]

I don't think the two are related. You may want to remove the details you've posted above though, for security reasons.

[nawarne]

I'd definitely try and unscrew the CD multi-changer and see what is underneath.

On my 2004 Mk.1, there is a rubber bung in the pass. side of the boot.

The whole solenoid can be removed through the bung aperture. The solenoid is fixed by 2 off roofing type machine screws that pick up on threaded holes on the solenoid mounting plate. You can feel for the machine screws under the carpet and with a careful slit with a Stanley knife, unscrew them to release the solenoid ass'y.

The rod covered by the rubber shroud does tend to get sticky...and it sounds as though the whole system of levers and cables could do with some lubrication. Not hard to do and is worth doing before having to splash out on a new one.

Nick

[markbeard]

thanks for the advice guys - i'll have a go and see whats under there.

Cheers
Mark

[markbeard]

Thanks so much for your guidance nawarne/robsco

Posting for the benefit of others...

removed the multichanger and behind there was a wooden mounting panel screwed into the bodywork, removed the panel and bingo the passenger side 'bung hole'! - removed solenoid (after cutting around carpet to expose 2 large bolt heads securing solenoid), gave solenoid a little compression squeeze and it started working off the button again. Repeated presses though stopped working and needed a little push again on the piston to get it pumping again. Sprayed a load of WD40 down the piston shaft and did a lot of manual compressions until it felt really smooth. Now works off button perfectly and is all screwed back together and tidy (the carpeted wooden panel covers the bolt heads so looks as good as before i touched it!)

Well happy.

Wish i hadnt ordered that new solenoid and boot latch now - still a spare is a spare!

Cheers
Mark

[nawarne]

Thanks for letting us know of your success.

So many posts re: dodgy boot solenoids...and my experience is that they just need some TLC/lubrication.
When I last fettled mine, I tried dripping oil down the Bowden cable inners to make a good job of it. A smear of Vaseline or silicone grease on the cranks/lever pivot points all helps too.
Nick

[TUS 2 CON]

I've been having some problems with my boot opening as well. The cable between the solenoid and the catch is too slack, so when the solenoid operates it doesn't pull the cable enough to open the catch. Does anyone know how to tighten up the cable?