Doors - Leaks - Argh - Help!
Discussion
OK, so I have managed to plug the water coming in behind the door card by doing the fix as noted in another thread.
I have read the previous posts about leaks, but would really like the community's help with this....
I still have a serious leak point. It is at the bottom of the door, pretty much middle of the flat section, either side of the 'up curves' of the door. It takes about 5-6 seconds to collate, then it starts to pour in. If I run the leak test against the window with the door open, the water is running correctly to the holes at the bottom of the door, and I am getting no water ingress through the door cards.
I did a hose test last night, and the entry point seems to be at the front upright of the window where the glass mates with the sea. The glass mates well with the rubber seal, but there is still a significant ingress point somewhere and I can find it.
I have a T2S, so has the updated roof design (I have noted previous threads about the Mk 1 roof)
I have chaged out the door seals and the roof seals.
I know they are not brilliant for waterproofing, but the the amount of water that is ingressing is significant.
Any help at all would be appreciated.
Thanks as always to all
Yours
Marto
I have read the previous posts about leaks, but would really like the community's help with this....
I still have a serious leak point. It is at the bottom of the door, pretty much middle of the flat section, either side of the 'up curves' of the door. It takes about 5-6 seconds to collate, then it starts to pour in. If I run the leak test against the window with the door open, the water is running correctly to the holes at the bottom of the door, and I am getting no water ingress through the door cards.
I did a hose test last night, and the entry point seems to be at the front upright of the window where the glass mates with the sea. The glass mates well with the rubber seal, but there is still a significant ingress point somewhere and I can find it.
I have a T2S, so has the updated roof design (I have noted previous threads about the Mk 1 roof)
I have chaged out the door seals and the roof seals.
I know they are not brilliant for waterproofing, but the the amount of water that is ingressing is significant.
Any help at all would be appreciated.
Thanks as always to all
Yours
Marto
Edited by Marto on Thursday 15th August 10:44
Hello BB & thanks for replying,
There were no vent holes in the seals around that area. I did make two holes last night to see if that would aleviate the water 'pooling' around that area.
Sadly the sheer amount of water coming in is, I'm assuming, completly overwhelming the seal and the 2 'drain' holes I made last night.
As previously mentioned, the source of the ingress point is somewhere in an around the following areas
1. where the roof meets the front pillar; and/or
2. where the glass mates to the seal around the upright and the join at the top of the upright and the roof seal; and/or
3. somewhere in behind the front curve of the door.
It is mightly frustrating as the door itself now appears to be watertight.
Thanks
Yours
Marto
There were no vent holes in the seals around that area. I did make two holes last night to see if that would aleviate the water 'pooling' around that area.
Sadly the sheer amount of water coming in is, I'm assuming, completly overwhelming the seal and the 2 'drain' holes I made last night.
As previously mentioned, the source of the ingress point is somewhere in an around the following areas
1. where the roof meets the front pillar; and/or
2. where the glass mates to the seal around the upright and the join at the top of the upright and the roof seal; and/or
3. somewhere in behind the front curve of the door.
It is mightly frustrating as the door itself now appears to be watertight.
Thanks
Yours
Marto
Evening Mr B,
Well more leak testing and the discovery of a nasty gap where the roof panel meets the top corner of the windscreen and where the door seal meets the roof seal. There is a number of issues here.
1. the roof panel itself is not truly uniform in shape, so one side is not the same as the other.
2. the gap between the seal and the inside face of the windscreen end piece is also not uniform at each side.
Upshot? The seals were always on a loser. Plus, the roof, when in place, nips the seal, thereby compromising the integrity.
So, I am trialling the following tomorrow (see attached photos). Its only a rough test piece so see if the integrity works, but garage trials seem to suggest a fix.

I have also oversized the roof seals....

I'll update with how I get on.
Yours
Marto
Well more leak testing and the discovery of a nasty gap where the roof panel meets the top corner of the windscreen and where the door seal meets the roof seal. There is a number of issues here.
1. the roof panel itself is not truly uniform in shape, so one side is not the same as the other.
2. the gap between the seal and the inside face of the windscreen end piece is also not uniform at each side.
Upshot? The seals were always on a loser. Plus, the roof, when in place, nips the seal, thereby compromising the integrity.
So, I am trialling the following tomorrow (see attached photos). Its only a rough test piece so see if the integrity works, but garage trials seem to suggest a fix.

I have also oversized the roof seals....

I'll update with how I get on.
Yours
Marto
Marto,
Your 2nd photo showing the overlap of the targa panel to window glass seal with the door/roof/other door seal also shows a plastic or rubber sleeved 'tang' just behind the 'hockey-stick' finisher.
This 'tang' can be bent (inward) to guide the window glass to mate more tightly with the door pillar seal. It is a bit of trial and error to get it just right - - so make all the adjustments small, and then check window lift past the tang and also that it does not tear the A pillar seal.
Nick
Your 2nd photo showing the overlap of the targa panel to window glass seal with the door/roof/other door seal also shows a plastic or rubber sleeved 'tang' just behind the 'hockey-stick' finisher.
This 'tang' can be bent (inward) to guide the window glass to mate more tightly with the door pillar seal. It is a bit of trial and error to get it just right - - so make all the adjustments small, and then check window lift past the tang and also that it does not tear the A pillar seal.
Nick
Hi Nick,
Yes, I have been adjusting the hockeystick to get the window to 'bed' against the seal. That seemed to be fine. The main culpret seems to have been where the roof joins at the top front of the door and the windscreen. There was a few nasty gaps there.
Also as perviously mentioned the roof moulding along with the the windscreen trim pieces are not uniform.
That does not help either!
Thanks for the advice.
Yours
Martin.
Yes, I have been adjusting the hockeystick to get the window to 'bed' against the seal. That seemed to be fine. The main culpret seems to have been where the roof joins at the top front of the door and the windscreen. There was a few nasty gaps there.
Also as perviously mentioned the roof moulding along with the the windscreen trim pieces are not uniform.
That does not help either!
Thanks for the advice.
Yours
Martin.
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