Advice on buying a new rear wheel...

[MysteryLemon]

Just got back from a ride and noticed my rear wheel has a nice buckle in it. It's bad enough to harshly rub on the brakes on each rotation so need fixing or replacing. No idea how it happened. Route was bumpy in places but I don't recall any nasty bumps or potholes... oh well..

The bike is a 2013 Schwinn Slicker. Wheels are stickered up Alexrims PC19. Theyre 700c x25c in size. Running a 9 speed cassette (Sunrace R96, 11-28t, 9-speed) with quick release hubs. I don't want to change the setup in any way, although realise I'm probably not going to be able to source a wheel of the same model. This I'm not fussed about.

What I need to know is if there are any other dimensions or spec I need to find out before ordering or can I just go and order any 700c wheel designed for a 9 speed (I've seen ones that say 8/9/10 speed) with quick release hubs and just bolt it on?

I don't want to spend a fortune. Budget would be under £50 if I'm just buying the rim itself and swapping everything else from the buckled wheel. I've see these... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ICE-700c-Alloy-Race-Whee... .. would they do the job? Says for Shimano cassettes though?

Any advice appreciated!

Edited by MysteryLemon on Friday 2nd August 12:15

Edited by MysteryLemon on Friday 2nd August 12:16

[S10GTA]

Take it to a bike mechanic. They will be able to straighten it.

[MysteryLemon]

For less than £50?

[shouldbworking]

MysteryLemon said:

For less than £50?

Trueing a wheel should cost a tenner or less. Looking at it and saying 'thats fooked' will cost you nothing.

[S10GTA]

for a fiver or a tenner max

[MysteryLemon]

Ah well that's good then. Sounds too cheap to be true but if it's less than a new wheel, I may as well. Will run it up to Swinnertons later see if there's anything that can do.

Bit of googling suggests my cassette is shimano compatible, so is there anything else I need to consider if I do need to replace the wheel?

[MysteryLemon]

Uuugh just taken the wheel off and I've got a snapped spoke!..

Do recall hearing a bang, even stopped thinking I had burst the tyre or something...

What's that likely to set me back?

[S10GTA]

MysteryLemon said:

Uuugh just taken the wheel off and I've got a snapped spoke!..

Do recall hearing a bang, even stopped thinking I had burst the tyre or something...

What's that likely to set me back?

S10GTA said:

for a fiver or a tenner max

[MysteryLemon]

£15.80 for the new spoke and truing.

[Welsh Pirate]

As a professional bike mechanic, can I give you a word of warning? If your spoke has broken at the elbow of the spoke (the bit by the hub) on the drive-side of the wheel (side nearest the cassette), it may be metal fatigue. What sometimes happens is that sometimes when a wheel is built, insufficient tension is put into the spokes. When you ride it the spoke will flex ever so slightly on each rotation of the wheel as the spoke is alternately compressed and placed under tension. Eventually the spokes will begin to fail at the elbow end. If you can't remember hitting a pot hole or the like, this could very well be the cause.

The solution is to either rebuild the wheel with new spokes and correctly tension the spokes (if the wheel is of sufficiently good quality) or to buy another wheel.

My advice would be to have the broken spoke replaced on this occasion, but if it happens again, it'll be time to buy a new wheel or have it fully rebuilt by a competent wheel builder.

I hope this helps.

[MysteryLemon]

Thanks for the info.

The bike is only around a month old. Probs done just over 100 miles on it since new.

The bike shop are well respected locally and are replacing the spoke and truing the wheel afterwards so I expect they will do a good job. It did indeed snap at the elbow.

I know I didn't hit a pothole at the time. Was on a moderate climb, nothing ott.