carb trouble??
Discussion
My 1977 Taimar starts and ticks over fine. When the engine is cold, or the car is left of a couple of hours and then restarted the engine starts and ticks of fine but soon as the revs increase i.e. you pull away the engine starts to 'pop and fart'(it struggles to get to 15mph). I have put Redex directly into the carb which solved the trouble, until the car was left again. I'm currently use unleaded petrol with the castrol additive and octaine booster and redex. I do try to use the car every weekend, and if I can't I do start it up and leave running for a while. Any ideas?
As you are in essex i would take it to Mowatts on pound lane, just off the A127 in Basildon. You can see it london bound after the a130 turn off, after the garden centre.
He is a weber specialist and although they are a bit weird down there he knows his stuff- you may not even need a new one, if you do he can source these things.
I know several M series owners who have taken their cars down there for a tune- me included my car has run much better since.
He is a weber specialist and although they are a bit weird down there he knows his stuff- you may not even need a new one, if you do he can source these things.
I know several M series owners who have taken their cars down there for a tune- me included my car has run much better since.
dcz3580 said:
I've just been recommended by the guy who services my car to replace the carbs. Anybody know what my options are? Where should I start looking / talk to for a replacment? I've spoken to David Gerald and they haven't had suitable carb for over two years.
In 26 years of TVR'ing I have never had to replace a carb EVER and the fault sounds like either the Pneumatic pump diaphagm gasket having failed or the auto choke having closed, It is common for these carbs to savange un metered fuel if they have poor gaskets sealing the main body, but this to can be cured by increasing the idle pilots jets size (which is a must on unleaded conversions) Adrian
You could also check the fuel filter which sits vertically at the input to the carb (at least on a 38DGAS)and can be removed by undoing the brass? bolt (3/4" if I remember) - the filter drops down. However, mine was dirty, causing problems at high revs (lack of fuel) rather than starting.
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