Replace Oil Cooler and Lines
Discussion
New Setrab oil cooler from Serck - £90 (after a significant discount)
Repaired and new Oil lines from Pirtek - £155 (after another discount)
Fitting was not so easy, as the new lines are somewhat thicker, the hose Pirtek used seemed over specified to me at 350 bar (what's the max the pump could produce - 10 bar?)
But the line from the oil filter is now rubbing on the engine mount, hope that won't be an issue though.
Repaired and new Oil lines from Pirtek - £155 (after another discount)
Fitting was not so easy, as the new lines are somewhat thicker, the hose Pirtek used seemed over specified to me at 350 bar (what's the max the pump could produce - 10 bar?)
But the line from the oil filter is now rubbing on the engine mount, hope that won't be an issue though.
Edited by ukkid35 on Monday 27th May 16:15
My new oil lines i fitted last year are also thicker and not very flexible, also touches the engine mount, i cable tied what i could to move it away from the mount and put some spiral wrap on it in case it does rub.
i see you have a steel pipe as well, i don't have that on mine.
Because i added and oil stat made getting them inside the wing a bit harder as they were a bit longer, but all fitted in nicely.
i see you have a steel pipe as well, i don't have that on mine.
Because i added and oil stat made getting them inside the wing a bit harder as they were a bit longer, but all fitted in nicely.
pmessling said:
Because i added and oil stat made getting them inside the wing a bit harder as they were a bit longer, but all fitted in nicely.
I did think about adding an oil stat, but since mine is just a fair weather car, I doubt it would make much difference after the first five minutes warm up.Mine is also a fait weather car but the work of the stat is very noticeable on cold fair weather days. It's shocking how long the oil takes to get up to temp on anything other than a warm summers day. And also how quickly the oil looses temp when you park up (according to the oil temp gauge anyway)
When I had to replace the radaitor, I refurbished everything in the nose, including oil cooler pipes and condenser, dryer. I had the same issue with corrosion on the oil cooler fittings. Had to split the nuts to save the cooler, hence new pipes.
Only thing I didn't replace was the aircon sensor on the dryer........
Guess what's causing the aircon not to work..... (It pressure tested fine)
You have my sympthathy, working in nose area is a bit 'tight'
Only thing I didn't replace was the aircon sensor on the dryer........
Guess what's causing the aircon not to work..... (It pressure tested fine)
You have my sympthathy, working in nose area is a bit 'tight'
ridds said:
Hit the pressure sensor with a hammer. That fixed mine. 
Ridds your a star!Whilst I was looking at the n/s headlamp for the MOT Thursday I decided to tap the trinary switch. Thought nothing of I until today in the heat. Thought I'd give the button a try after start up.
Engine revs dropped as i herd the clutch click in, AC Worked and got cold air on the run home - very pleasing!
Well, funny that I fell upon this 9-year-old thread coz this is summat I am doing bow and I am Flumoxed (with a capital 'F')
Does anyone understand why the Pipe, which exits the bottom of the Oil Pump, on the Driver's Side then goes backwards, along the length of the sump, around the back of the engine, then up and over the Oil Filter, past the whole of the engine again, then does a contorted left/right/right through the engine bay walls to make its way to the cooler ?
I mean, front out of the pump and fowards to the Oil Cooler sounds a slightly more simple path to me.
I ask, poncipally because that is what I am going to do with mine.
(and reduce the under-bonnet yardage by 70%)
Ta for any hilarious Know-Nos !
Does anyone understand why the Pipe, which exits the bottom of the Oil Pump, on the Driver's Side then goes backwards, along the length of the sump, around the back of the engine, then up and over the Oil Filter, past the whole of the engine again, then does a contorted left/right/right through the engine bay walls to make its way to the cooler ?
I mean, front out of the pump and fowards to the Oil Cooler sounds a slightly more simple path to me.
I ask, poncipally because that is what I am going to do with mine.
(and reduce the under-bonnet yardage by 70%)
Ta for any hilarious Know-Nos !
Mr Cerbera said:
Does anyone understand why the Pipe, which exits the bottom of the Oil Pump, on the Driver's Side then goes backwards, along the length of the sump, around the back of the engine, then up and over the Oil Filter, past the whole of the engine again, then does a contorted left/right/right through the engine bay walls to make its way to the cooler ?
Could be because on the early split sump engines, the high pressure oil went through a channel in the sump and out at the back left of the engine just behind the oil filter. So all pipes were on the left side of the engine bay.It's interesting that you say the pipe goes all the way round the engine and past the filter to the cooler at the front. I replaced the whole oil system this spring and found the same. The HP oil went to the cooler before going to the filter. When talking to the people at SpeedFlow https://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/ they confirmed that the HP oil should go to the filter first then the cooler. Makes sense - so any contaminants don't get into the rest of the system before the filter. I replaced the whole system with parts from Speedflow. Very happy. The pipes are really easy to make up yourself and the black anodized fittings look a lot better that the old rusty steel connectors.
Good luck with it.
G.
Also just looking at doing my 3 oil phoses and new cooler. Mine also has the metal pipe from the pump that goes under the engine straight to the cooler. looking at parts for TVR they do the pipe which goes around the back for the later cars and the other 2 for around £130 which i dont think is too bad.
Anyone know why it goes through the cooler before the filter?
is the remote filter housing right to left flow
Anyone know why it goes through the cooler before the filter?
is the remote filter housing right to left flow
The Nige said:
Wowza ! That makes interesting reading Nigel, especially as my Sept reg 2001 [Chassis '1253' ] has 0.5" ID piping fitted.The big shock is that even if the service points had done their jobs properly, the Oil Cooler is not on the list of parts to change and that, too, has 0.5" junctions.
So glad that mine has NOT blown up !
Looks like a new Oil Cooler is on the Christmas Pressie List
Worried about my pressure dropping through the floor when it's all fitted though
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ETA
Has anyone any idea of the set-up before "Nigel's" amendment ??
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Wednesday 7th December 18:31
M3cerbera said:
Also just looking at doing my 3 oil phoses and new cooler. Mine also has the metal pipe from the pump that goes under the engine straight to the cooler. looking at parts for TVR they do the pipe which goes around the back for the later cars and the other 2 for around £130 which i dont think is too bad.
Anyone know why it goes through the cooler before the filter?
is the remote filter housing right to left flow
Hi Mike,Anyone know why it goes through the cooler before the filter?
is the remote filter housing right to left flow
Sorry that I didn't answer you earlier - only just re-found the thread.
The Oil Filter is a MOCAL unit and the flow through it is in the direction of the name cast into it.
i.e. Left in from the 'M' side, down the outside of the filter , through it, then up the inside of the filter and out through the 'L' side as in the pic below....
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ETA
There are, of course, A Zillion to choose from
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Thursday 23 November 13:43
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