Brake pad warning light

[belfry]

My brake pad warning light is on despite the pads being fairly new and having lots of "meat" on them.

I'm guessing that it's the sensor that need replacing. But, if I just remove the faulty sensor, will this put the warning light out until I have the opportunity to replace the sensor?

Thanks

[jhfozzy]

belfry said:

My brake pad warning light is on despite the pads being fairly new and having lots of "meat" on them.

I'm guessing that it's the sensor that need replacing. But, if I just remove the faulty sensor, will this put the warning light out until I have the opportunity to replace the sensor?

Thanks

Most brake warning lights are the two wire type that when the pads get too low, the brake disk rubs / breaks the link and brings the light on. On this type if you remove the sensor it will be just the same as a broken link and the light will stay on.

A quick fix for this type is to fit a bridging wire in the plug to link it out simulating a good sensor. This usually puts the light out.

[bobsan]

its a ring circuit right around the four corners and if cable/sensor pad brakes anywhere light is triggered. There's no indication where the brake is so trial and error am afraid until you find defective joint.
I've long thrown mine away, fed up with chasing broken wires, and just bridged the connector on each wheel.

Easy enough to see state of pads though wheel, plus I know what sort of punishment i've given brake system and how long disc's/pads should last anyway.

[belfry]

Thank you. But please can you explain how I bridge the connector?

Edited by belfry on Friday 3rd May 22:26

[Pip1968]

Remove the sensor and just get a bit of electrical wire to make the circuit with. So you will then have a complete electrical loop with no breaks. You need to look at each pad to see which one or ones are causing a broken circuit.

If you have no idea about electrics then get someone who does. Not for safety reasons but knowledge.

It is a simple circuit.

Best of luck.

Pip

[jhfozzy]

Pip1968 said:

Remove the sensor and just get a bit of electrical wire to make the circuit with. So you will then have a complete electrical loop with no breaks. You need to look at each pad to see which one or ones are causing a broken circuit.

If you have no idea about electrics then get someone who does. Not for safety reasons but knowledge.

It is a simple circuit.

Best of luck.

Pip

Just to add to this, I wouldn't remove the whole sensor as you will remove the waterproof integrity of the plug, introduce corrosion and possibly prevent you putting a sensor back in in the future.

I would cut the wires going to the sensor (not the vehicle harness), join the wires together and make it waterproof using heatshrink or similar. This way the plug stays waterproof and you don't need any extra wire.

[bobsan]

^^^^^^ exactly this^^^^^

[davek_964]

Not sure what car you have, but on my 996 turbo I had a similar problem and it was caused by breaks in the loom where it runs down to the sensor connector. In fact, I had it on both sides (front) at different times. You can replace the connector, by cutting into the loom in the luggage compartment and soldering in the new connector then running it down to behind the brakes.

If that is the cause of your problem, then you won't be able to solve it by bridging the connector right down at the sensor end.

[jhfozzy]

davek_964 said:

Not sure what car you have, but on my 996 turbo I had a similar problem and it was caused by breaks in the loom where it runs down to the sensor connector. In fact, I had it on both sides (front) at different times. You can replace the connector, by cutting into the loom in the luggage compartment and soldering in the new connector then running it down to behind the brakes.

If that is the cause of your problem, then you won't be able to solve it by bridging the connector right down at the sensor end.

We've got a similar problem on a 3 series touring at the moment, only two brake wear sensors (opposite corners of the car) but linking both out still doesn't put the light out. Fun and games trying to find the break.

ETA: Or I could have just waited sixty seconds with the ignition on to reset the light on its own. Google wins again.

Edited by jhfozzy on Tuesday 7th May 13:26