Do I need a remap ?
Discussion
Been a while (busy renovating/adapting house), but I do have a question on my M12 GTO (2.5) :
I did a couple of sensible upgrades : new exact 2nd rad fan in front, exhaust changed (box is gone, replaced by straight pipe), M400 fuel pump + wiring installed.
Do I need a remap now ? What would I benefit from ?
YellowShed is the man to speak to ? (whereabouts is he ?) How much would it set me back ?
I did a couple of sensible upgrades : new exact 2nd rad fan in front, exhaust changed (box is gone, replaced by straight pipe), M400 fuel pump + wiring installed.
Do I need a remap now ? What would I benefit from ?
YellowShed is the man to speak to ? (whereabouts is he ?) How much would it set me back ?
bzguy said:
Been a while (busy renovating/adapting house), but I do have a question on my M12 GTO (2.5) :
I did a couple of sensible upgrades : new exact 2nd rad fan in front, exhaust changed (box is gone, replaced by straight pipe), M400 fuel pump + wiring installed.
Do I need a remap now ? What would I benefit from ?
YellowShed is the man to speak to ? (whereabouts is he ?) How much would it set me back ?
I'd at least get a quick shakedown run on dyno to make sure the fueling is ok.I did a couple of sensible upgrades : new exact 2nd rad fan in front, exhaust changed (box is gone, replaced by straight pipe), M400 fuel pump + wiring installed.
Do I need a remap now ? What would I benefit from ?
YellowShed is the man to speak to ? (whereabouts is he ?) How much would it set me back ?
If the car has never been remapped, it's probably on a s
t map at the moment, so I'd recommend it, especially if you have the electronic boost controller the slightly later 2.5s have.
Yellowshed would probably say you should have the uprated intercooler and strengthened valve springs for the best results, otherwise you'll lose about 10% when the car gets hot and he'll have to drop your rev limit to prevent valve bounce.
t map at the moment, so I'd recommend it, especially if you have the electronic boost controller the slightly later 2.5s have. Yellowshed would probably say you should have the uprated intercooler and strengthened valve springs for the best results, otherwise you'll lose about 10% when the car gets hot and he'll have to drop your rev limit to prevent valve bounce.
thank you guys, what I do know :
- it does have the later MBE ECU (& wiring loom ?!)
- no stronger actuators (as I know) -> easy install ?
- no uprated valve springs
- no LSD afaik
- new IC is on my wish list
- it says "Bosch mapped" on the MBE ECU
- car no 59, would it have electronic boost controller ? How can I check ?
- it does have the later MBE ECU (& wiring loom ?!)
- no stronger actuators (as I know) -> easy install ?
- no uprated valve springs
- no LSD afaik
- new IC is on my wish list

- it says "Bosch mapped" on the MBE ECU
- car no 59, would it have electronic boost controller ? How can I check ?
Edited by bzguy on Thursday 25th April 10:03
Gadgeroonie said:
...i suggest you do the fuel pump mod and fit stronger actuators...
Thought we had this discussion on a previous thread. There is no need for stronger actuators. The 2.5 has 0.5 actuators and they are fine for over 400 if not loads more (but I can only comment on 400 as I have them)Bondy
Gadgeroonie said:
yes - but in my experience if they are the original ones they may have gone soft / siezed
making a remap impossible
When I took my stock 3R for its first remap the actuators had gone "soft" Still able to remap, not impossible but it would have been easier to have done with new acuators fitted before than after.making a remap impossible
Trevor Jasper (Yellowshed)
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http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/profile.asp?mem...
That is correct and standard for the 2.5s - they have 0.7Bar capsules and don't seem to suffer from age weakening that the 3.0ls do with the 0.3Bar caps. You don't appear to have electronic boost as it would go to just over 1Bar and drop back to about 0.9Bar at the top end.
YellowShed
YellowShed
YellowShed said:
That is correct and standard for the 2.5s - they have 0.7Bar capsules and don't seem to suffer from age weakening that the 3.0ls do with the 0.3Bar caps. You don't appear to have electronic boost as it would go to just over 1Bar and drop back to about 0.9Bar at the top end.
YellowShed
0.7 is std for 2.5 with control and 0.5 off the actuators isn't it? 0.9 was M400 or if you had a remapYellowShed
Edited by mgbond on Thursday 25th April 21:13
2.5bluenob said:
My 2.5 was on 0.7 actuators as standard i think. And it had now electronic control.
steve
I believe the actuators were 0.5 on the 2.5 and there was a control to let it boost to 0.7 bar as std. steve
My car has STD actuators and if I turn off boost control own the ECU (after market ECU) the car will boost to 0.5 as running just off actuators?
mgbond said:
I believe the actuators were 0.5 on the 2.5 and there was a control to let it boost to 0.7 bar as std.
My car has STD actuators and if I turn off boost control own the ECU (after market ECU) the car will boost to 0.5 as running just off actuators?
What build number is your car Bondy?My car has STD actuators and if I turn off boost control own the ECU (after market ECU) the car will boost to 0.5 as running just off actuators?
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