Discussion
Hey all, have come begging for help!
I have a s2, based in west bridgford in nottingham.
Took my car for a basic service at a garage locally that I have used before and while there the car developed a new problem that he gave up on and I haven't been able to fix..... Will try not to moan too much about the fact that he charged me £400 odd quid to mess around with it and not fix the problem that was created in the time that it was there........
In a nutshell when the engine is cold it idles rough but at 1000rpm or so. It seems to hang on to revs a little more that previous bit does settle down. But when the engine is at temp if you blip throttle or as you are coming down in revs it holds at 2100rpm for about a minute and then come down slowly to settle at 1200rpm and repeat every time you do this. Interestingly when driving over 30mph if you press the clutch in a lift the accelerator it drops normally to to 1000rpm but bounces back to 1500rpm and back and forth etc..
Have done some things already with no joy.
Garage queried a vacuum leak and in particular had messed around with the throttle body so found a good used one and swap it out. No help
Changed the throttle pot. No help.
Sprayed the distributor. No help
Found a vacuum hose that was loose(broken jubilee clamp, can't believe they didn't notice that in 'looking around'...) and fixed. Have spent far too long checking the rest I could get my hands on or check with my stethoscope (am a doctor) and can't find any vacuum leaks in the hosing.
Brake servo is fine too, had the joys of paying for that to be replaced a couple of yrs ago.
Have check the wiring on the various sensor that I could get too and sprayed with wd40 etc. no help.
The garage also changed the idle control valve after they had did whatever they did and that hasn't helped.
Also have let ecu reset, and it warm up to fan etc. no help
Have read some similar posts in past and tried to replicate as much as possible on my drive but can't seem to make it work.
The garage when they gave it back took the plug out on the idle speed control valve which does make the idle settle down and return as should but it would as this is making the ecu run in safe mode and certainly the car isn't 'right' like that.
So, any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated. Even a suggestion of a garage would be able to 'sort it' as it is my daily drive and not ideal at the moment...
Cheers.
Dez
I have a s2, based in west bridgford in nottingham.
Took my car for a basic service at a garage locally that I have used before and while there the car developed a new problem that he gave up on and I haven't been able to fix..... Will try not to moan too much about the fact that he charged me £400 odd quid to mess around with it and not fix the problem that was created in the time that it was there........
In a nutshell when the engine is cold it idles rough but at 1000rpm or so. It seems to hang on to revs a little more that previous bit does settle down. But when the engine is at temp if you blip throttle or as you are coming down in revs it holds at 2100rpm for about a minute and then come down slowly to settle at 1200rpm and repeat every time you do this. Interestingly when driving over 30mph if you press the clutch in a lift the accelerator it drops normally to to 1000rpm but bounces back to 1500rpm and back and forth etc..
Have done some things already with no joy.
Garage queried a vacuum leak and in particular had messed around with the throttle body so found a good used one and swap it out. No help
Changed the throttle pot. No help.
Sprayed the distributor. No help
Found a vacuum hose that was loose(broken jubilee clamp, can't believe they didn't notice that in 'looking around'...) and fixed. Have spent far too long checking the rest I could get my hands on or check with my stethoscope (am a doctor) and can't find any vacuum leaks in the hosing.
Brake servo is fine too, had the joys of paying for that to be replaced a couple of yrs ago.
Have check the wiring on the various sensor that I could get too and sprayed with wd40 etc. no help.
The garage also changed the idle control valve after they had did whatever they did and that hasn't helped.
Also have let ecu reset, and it warm up to fan etc. no help
Have read some similar posts in past and tried to replicate as much as possible on my drive but can't seem to make it work.
The garage when they gave it back took the plug out on the idle speed control valve which does make the idle settle down and return as should but it would as this is making the ecu run in safe mode and certainly the car isn't 'right' like that.
So, any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated. Even a suggestion of a garage would be able to 'sort it' as it is my daily drive and not ideal at the moment...
Cheers.
Dez
Hi Dez & welcome,
Your problem does seem pretty similar to the one described in the next thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I'd suggest you take a look at that one. Not sure of the solution but I'd be prepared to scratch heads together if you like, I'm in Wilford.
Gary
Your problem does seem pretty similar to the one described in the next thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I'd suggest you take a look at that one. Not sure of the solution but I'd be prepared to scratch heads together if you like, I'm in Wilford.
Gary
This is probably not helpful but when I had a similar problem on my V8S it was down to the stepper motor not being set properly (too thick a washer). I don’t know if the Ford engine has a stepper motor so this might be useless information. The permanent live feed to the ECU was broken as well which exacerbated matters and caused the tick over to do what yours is doing.
I believe that disconnecting the ISCV should cause the car to stall as there is no air induction path in this configuration (the ISCV allows and controls the amount of air bleed past the throttle butterfly plate when idling with the throttle plates fully shut) unless it is stuck partially open or the throttle butterfly valves are not fully shutting. Certainly on my car (the other thread highlighted above) this occurs with both my ISCVs.
Disconnecting the throttle pot puts the car into service mode which then sets the ISCV to a set position and gives me a steady idle at some 1500rpm (should be lower at around 850-900 rpm).
I'd suggest you go through the list Norm (Gerald-TVR) suggests in the post on the thread I started and please if you find your issue let me know and I'll do the same. My current thoughts are heading toward an induction leak somewhere after the AFMs on my car but I believe the induction is common to all cylinders up to the point of fuel injection and on my vehicle (with independent exhaust for each bank of cylinders) the emissions on one side are where you would expect but the other back is running very lean. May find myself dismantling and re-checking the induction side soon if I can't find my problem
Also use THIS link and download the ford 2.9 diagnostics sheet it may help
HTH
Mark
Disconnecting the throttle pot puts the car into service mode which then sets the ISCV to a set position and gives me a steady idle at some 1500rpm (should be lower at around 850-900 rpm).
I'd suggest you go through the list Norm (Gerald-TVR) suggests in the post on the thread I started and please if you find your issue let me know and I'll do the same. My current thoughts are heading toward an induction leak somewhere after the AFMs on my car but I believe the induction is common to all cylinders up to the point of fuel injection and on my vehicle (with independent exhaust for each bank of cylinders) the emissions on one side are where you would expect but the other back is running very lean. May find myself dismantling and re-checking the induction side soon if I can't find my problem
Also use THIS link and download the ford 2.9 diagnostics sheet it may help
HTH
Mark
Not sure of a solution, but would suggest you try and get it to R.T Racing in sheffield.
It may mean more pain for the wallet, but im confident they will be able to sort it.
Mechanically Tivs are not complicated cars but they are quite a few years old now, and many garages would not have seen or worked on an efi ford v6 engine for quite a while.
It may mean more pain for the wallet, but im confident they will be able to sort it.
Mechanically Tivs are not complicated cars but they are quite a few years old now, and many garages would not have seen or worked on an efi ford v6 engine for quite a while.
Barkychoc said:
I am in Bingham and will have a bit of free time after this week. I have been known to poke around with TVR's here and there.
Is yours a green one I saw many times parked round the corner from the Test Match pub?
Happy to recommend Chris' (Barkychoc's) TVR fettling capability - if he has time to help I'd suggest that as a great starting point.Is yours a green one I saw many times parked round the corner from the Test Match pub?
Cheers guys, new things to look at. Had more of a poke this weekend and found no gasket on idle speed control vavle they replaced so had the joys of making one... Still haven't been able to get to the bottom on it although interestingly swapping my supposed bad ISCV for the one they put on made abosultely no difference and all very annoying because the car did none of this prior to taking it in...
Yep it is indeed the green one (when I remember to wash it) parked around from the test match, live on Gordon Road. Is a road going on going project which used to be a good runner but...
Chris will send you an email, may need to take you up on that unless I break down, give up and book it in somewhere this week.
Dez
Yep it is indeed the green one (when I remember to wash it) parked around from the test match, live on Gordon Road. Is a road going on going project which used to be a good runner but...
Chris will send you an email, may need to take you up on that unless I break down, give up and book it in somewhere this week.
Dez
Dez if you get a can of easy start and spray it around the plenum isc valve etc if there is an air leak the engine running will change. be a bit careful it is flammable best done when engine isn't too warm.
You will probably be able to get a can from the shop at the cricket ground end of musters road not far from you.
Chris
You will probably be able to get a can from the shop at the cricket ground end of musters road not far from you.
Chris
Dez if you get a can of easy start and spray it around the plenum isc valve etc if there is an air leak the engine running will change. be a bit careful it is flammable best done when engine isn't too warm.
You will probably be able to get a can from the shop at the cricket ground end of musters road not far from you.
Chris
You will probably be able to get a can from the shop at the cricket ground end of musters road not far from you.
Chris
For anyone interested found the problem and is now fixed and running great. Ended up taking it to Wilford lane garage here in West Bridgford and they tracked it down to the wiring from the idle speed control valve not doing anything at all! New wiring and all working great now!
Thanx Chris for the suggestion of Wilford lane, they were a pleasure to work with and very reasonably pricewise.
Dez
Thanx Chris for the suggestion of Wilford lane, they were a pleasure to work with and very reasonably pricewise.
Dez
dezglidden said:
For anyone interested found the problem and is now fixed and running great. Ended up taking it to Wilford lane garage here in West Bridgford and they tracked it down to the wiring from the idle speed control valve not doing anything at all! New wiring and all working great now!
Thanx Chris for the suggestion of Wilford lane, they were a pleasure to work with and very reasonably pricewise.
Dez
Great Stuff. Did you see Steve? Good bunch of guys there.Thanx Chris for the suggestion of Wilford lane, they were a pleasure to work with and very reasonably pricewise.
Dez
I have absolutely no experience of the ECU, but surely the fact that the Idle Speed Control Valve was apparently not working would have shown up as a fault using the standard fault code reader?
I thought that was the purpose of it to identify single point failures?
If this is a stupid assumption, that would back up my original statement.
I thought that was the purpose of it to identify single point failures?
If this is a stupid assumption, that would back up my original statement.
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