200sx (S14a) – one of the last ones
Discussion
A mate of mine is just about to make a purchase on one of the very last 200SX – on a 51 plate. It’s a touring Auto.
He’s asked my advice as it’s an Auto (I’ve got an auto in the 5-series – which works exceptionally well) – but he’s in two minds. He likes the idea of it, I think I’ve sold him on the idea of an auto, but does an auto suit this type of car…? On his test drive he said it worked well, but then a 15 min test drive (first time he’s driven an auto) he would say that.
Anyone own/owned one, and have pro’s and con’s of an auto in this particular car. I’m not sure how well it works with the Turbo lump under the bonnet, as surely before the turbo gets time to work it’s already changed gear – or am I wrong..?
Is this car best suited to a manual, or is the auto the one to have (there seems more Auto’s around than manuals).
jj
He’s asked my advice as it’s an Auto (I’ve got an auto in the 5-series – which works exceptionally well) – but he’s in two minds. He likes the idea of it, I think I’ve sold him on the idea of an auto, but does an auto suit this type of car…? On his test drive he said it worked well, but then a 15 min test drive (first time he’s driven an auto) he would say that.
Anyone own/owned one, and have pro’s and con’s of an auto in this particular car. I’m not sure how well it works with the Turbo lump under the bonnet, as surely before the turbo gets time to work it’s already changed gear – or am I wrong..?
Is this car best suited to a manual, or is the auto the one to have (there seems more Auto’s around than manuals).
jj
um
dunno how a bmw gearbox works but the one on my skyline (ie a nissan box) will change up early if you dont push your foot down hard because it thinks you dont want to accelerate that hard. however, if you floor it, it will rev right to the red line, making full use of the turbo.
the s14a is a bit more comfy but still sporty.
dunno how a bmw gearbox works but the one on my skyline (ie a nissan box) will change up early if you dont push your foot down hard because it thinks you dont want to accelerate that hard. however, if you floor it, it will rev right to the red line, making full use of the turbo.
the s14a is a bit more comfy but still sporty.
um
dunno how a bmw gearbox works but the one on my skyline (ie a nissan box) will change up early if you dont push your foot down hard because it thinks you dont want to accelerate that hard. however, if you floor it, it will rev right to the red line, making full use of the turbo.
the s14a is a bit more comfy but still sporty.
dunno how a bmw gearbox works but the one on my skyline (ie a nissan box) will change up early if you dont push your foot down hard because it thinks you dont want to accelerate that hard. however, if you floor it, it will rev right to the red line, making full use of the turbo.
the s14a is a bit more comfy but still sporty.
www.sxoc.com
The forum contains an absolute wealth of knowledge by far the best owners club/internet forum I have had anything to do with.
The forum contains an absolute wealth of knowledge by far the best owners club/internet forum I have had anything to do with.
I had a manual S14a Touring, very nice but it is more of a GT than a sports car, personally I have never liked the idea of turbo's and auto's going together.
They are very well balanced, which is why you see so many in drifting competitions, good spec if you get the Touring and mine was very reliable, servicing is not too expensive. All round nice car, no room in the back for adults though, you will break their kneecaps
There is also www.200sx.org, New Zealand site, but the guy is very helpful if you email him.
My car did suffer from the strange rattle, when cold start the car, a very brief rattle is heard from engine bay, only happened when engine was cold and was never found or cured, this is known to happen on a lot of S14's, no one is really sure why, from saying exhaust, to the ceramic cat plates to heat shielding.
Erm, all I can really think of off the top of my head, take it for a decent test drive and see what you think.
Do be careful in the wet though, backend can be playful.
They are very well balanced, which is why you see so many in drifting competitions, good spec if you get the Touring and mine was very reliable, servicing is not too expensive. All round nice car, no room in the back for adults though, you will break their kneecaps
There is also www.200sx.org, New Zealand site, but the guy is very helpful if you email him.
My car did suffer from the strange rattle, when cold start the car, a very brief rattle is heard from engine bay, only happened when engine was cold and was never found or cured, this is known to happen on a lot of S14's, no one is really sure why, from saying exhaust, to the ceramic cat plates to heat shielding.
Erm, all I can really think of off the top of my head, take it for a decent test drive and see what you think.
Do be careful in the wet though, backend can be playful.
It's the VVT pulley and yes it's down to oil pressure, should last no more than a couple of seconds.
They are lovely cars to drive if a little soft for my tastes (which is why mine is getting coilovers). They are also probably the most cost-effective, biggest bang-for-your-buck cars for tuning. 300bhp with sensible tweaking and no major mods (and reliably too) the most problematic part being a FMIC which involves some metal cutting and a tiny battery or relocation (of the battery) to the boot. Apex have a link-up with the SXOC and I believe plans are afoot to produce a FMIC that utilises the existing intercooler pipework. It costs £700-odd however
They are lovely cars to drive if a little soft for my tastes (which is why mine is getting coilovers). They are also probably the most cost-effective, biggest bang-for-your-buck cars for tuning. 300bhp with sensible tweaking and no major mods (and reliably too) the most problematic part being a FMIC which involves some metal cutting and a tiny battery or relocation (of the battery) to the boot. Apex have a link-up with the SXOC and I believe plans are afoot to produce a FMIC that utilises the existing intercooler pipework. It costs £700-odd however
The particular one my mate was going to buy – ‘the auto’, he has now changed his mind. The seller was sticking to a certain price, which was (so he told me) right at the top end of the scale (for the car – and his budget), and the guy wasn’t interesting in moving, my mate would have brought it if it went £300 in his favour.
Also he checked servicing pricing with the main dealer, who told him, that, the particular car he was looking at, although on a 51 – plate (2001) was in fact manufactured in 1999!
jj
Also he checked servicing pricing with the main dealer, who told him, that, the particular car he was looking at, although on a 51 – plate (2001) was in fact manufactured in 1999!
jj
The DJ 27 said:
This is my ideal car at the moment, in that it's very tuneable, has a turbo and can be had for hot-hatch money. The insurance is bloody ridiculous though! Can't get a quote for under £2K
Being an old(er) person and living in a low risk area I pay just over £300 fully comp from Adrian Flux with modifications declared
You, Sir, are a git! Haven't really tried the specialists yet, since I'm a few months off being able to afford to change my car. Have a feeling that I won't be able to modify it even if I do get a sensible quote. Have my eye on the Option Motorsport stage 2 conversion. 290bhp in a stealth package 
The DJ 27 said:
You, Sir, are a git! Haven't really tried the specialists yet, since I'm a few months off being able to afford to change my car. Have a feeling that I won't be able to modify it even if I do get a sensible quote. Have my eye on the Option Motorsport stage 2 conversion. 290bhp in a stealth package
I'm not familiar with that package but I do know that around 280bhp is achievable very easily and cheaply (exhaust, induction, cold sparks, bleed valve for boost pressure, Walbro fuel pump, boost gauge). More than that gets a bit more expensive as you start running into limitaiations with the injectors and also require a Front-Mounted-Intercooler rather than the wing mounted standard unit.
Good look with your saving
jap-car said:
bleed valve for boost pressure,
Nooooooo.
Dont use a bleed valve.Boost pressure will spike,inconsistantly & unreliably all over the place.After fitting induction+exhaust mods,a boost controller+gauge would be a good starting point IMO. >> Edited by tuttle on Monday 27th September 09:09
tuttle said:
bleed valve for boost pressure,
Nooooooo.
>> Edited by tuttle on Monday 27th September 09:09
The one I was thinking of consists of a sprung ball-bearing which seats on a matching surface and thus forms a valve which opens at a pre-set pressure. This is placed in the pressure feed to the actuator and on the SX owners club is known as a "Bren device" as he is the guy who sells them. I believe you are right about bleed valves. I don't think the device I have described is a bleed valve but I don't know the correct name hence my mistake.
Cheers,
Robert
jap-car said:
jap-car said:
bleed valve for boost pressure,
Nooooooo.
>> Edited by tuttle on Monday 27th September 09:09
The one I was thinking of consists of a sprung ball-bearing which seats on a matching surface and thus forms a valve which opens at a pre-set pressure. This is placed in the pressure feed to the actuator and on the SX owners club is known as a "Bren device" as he is the guy who sells them. I believe you are right about bleed valves. I don't think the device I have described is a bleed valve but I don't know the correct name hence my mistake.
Cheers,
Robert
The man speaks the truth, bleed valves lead to boost spikes.....I know they cost more but a decent electronic boost controller is miles better.
Dakkon said:
The man speaks the truth, bleed valves lead to boost spikes.....I know they cost more but a decent electronic boost controller is miles better.
Thirded. The device you mention is better than a bleed valve, but seriously I'd invest a couple of hundred badgers on a decent EBC.
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