Boost switch for dash
Boost switch for dash
Author
Discussion

r10crw

Original Poster:

47 posts

216 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
Again due to the search facilty...

Is the wiring existing for breaking into the boost controller? ie do I need to run a new pair to the switch from the boost controller.
If so is it best to break into the wiring beside the controller or nearer to the ecu?

Lastly whats the wiring like on the dash switch? The light comes on when flicked so assume it has an earth and power? so must be di pole?

Thanks Craig.

S26VE P

2,174 posts

271 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
i just put 'Noble boost switch pistonheads' into google and found lists,
Starting with this one. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=1&a...

mgbond

6,749 posts

261 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
My boost controller is different but when I had a switch that cut the power to it running from the controller in the engine bay to the dash it would eventually kill the controller.

I assume its was probably due to voltage drops or current drops?

I now have an input to the ECU that controls it now but my ECU is after market.

Bondy

bzguy

310 posts

207 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
COPY/PASTE from S26VEP's referrer :

Q : "I want to use the spare switch on the dash for high and low boost as a few of you have done, is it as simple as running a pair of wires to the boost sensor on the manifold? I think it has a red and a white wire?
Thanks guys."

A : Yes mate cut into the red wire and put the switch in . Tux


AverageMPH

493 posts

191 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
I don't see the point of a boost cut switch.

Just use your right foot.

AMG Merc

11,955 posts

282 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
AverageMPH said:
I don't see the point of a boost cut switch.

Just use your right foot.
Agreed! Going the other way my Pork has an overboost switch (well pedal really) wink

Hollowpockets

5,910 posts

245 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
AverageMPH said:
I don't see the point of a boost cut switch.

Just use your right foot.
In a <400 bhp car on road thats probably fair enough comment.

Metalman

1,173 posts

247 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
AverageMPH said:
I don't see the point of a boost cut switch.

Just use your right foot.
It's actually quite handy on a day like today, took the car out and was running at 370bhp but when I pushed the switch to run at 500bhp it just kept going sideways smile

TuxMan

9,011 posts

267 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
i agree with Graham , fine on a 400 car but bloody hell imagine 600 with the weather as it is !!!

r10crw

Original Poster:

47 posts

216 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
Thanks for the link above, didn't realise u could use google and works great by adding noble and pistonheads to the search. Wouldnt say I'm closer to knowing if wires exist but I've run 7 core cable down the tunnel which I can use if needed.

With respect to using your right foot, it's not really the point. My cars standard and in the conditions just now I can get wheel spin in third, with a little lock on u need to be very careful. With the unit disconnected it means you can press on with less worry which for me makes the drive more enjoyable, I bought the car to enjoy driving it. I do agree that in the dry or even warmer conditions it's not needed, perhaps with 600 ponies it would be different.
So in a standard car disconnecting the controller drops my boost to 0.3, any ideas what power this would be?

Metalman

1,173 posts

247 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
As far as I know there's no wiring at all, I ran my cables down the tunnel inside a length of black heat shrink then ran it with the wiring loom near the battery and up the frame with the ecu wires, then joined it to the wire on the boost sensor so nothing can be seen. I did try finding the wire at the ecu but failed.

r10crw

Original Poster:

47 posts

216 months

Monday 17th December 2012
quotequote all
Metalman said:
As far as I know there's no wiring at all, I ran my cables down the tunnel inside a length of black heat shrink then ran it with the wiring loom near the battery and up the frame with the ecu wires, then joined it to the wire on the boost sensor so nothing can be seen. I did try finding the wire at the ecu but failed.
Thanks mate, ill use some of the cores I ran in,
Cheers Craig.