Discussion
Just decided to go for a quick blast to warm the fluids, jumped into the car, turned the key, and...
Slow turn over
Kept the key on for 10 secs or so hoping it would catch as it kept turning slowly, but nothing. It's been outside under a cover, but with a trickle charger attached. Big battery, not that old.
Attached my booster pack, but all I got after that was a solenoid click. Repositioned the cables and tried again, but the same. Disconnected the booster, now just a click from the starter
Any thoughts other than a dead battery? I'm sure it's not that old, and it has been on a trickle charger...
Slow turn over
Kept the key on for 10 secs or so hoping it would catch as it kept turning slowly, but nothing. It's been outside under a cover, but with a trickle charger attached. Big battery, not that old.Attached my booster pack, but all I got after that was a solenoid click. Repositioned the cables and tried again, but the same. Disconnected the booster, now just a click from the starter

Any thoughts other than a dead battery? I'm sure it's not that old, and it has been on a trickle charger...
Starter motor replaced at service 6 weeks ago!
The battery is at the very least flat - 9-10v, drops to 9v under load so either my trickle charger is broken (but if the battery was good it wouldn't have dropped that much in 2 weeks since its last run), there is a current draw somewhere, or the battery is knackered.
I am going to go for a replacement battery first and take it from there...
The battery is at the very least flat - 9-10v, drops to 9v under load so either my trickle charger is broken (but if the battery was good it wouldn't have dropped that much in 2 weeks since its last run), there is a current draw somewhere, or the battery is knackered.
I am going to go for a replacement battery first and take it from there...
If your trickle charger turned into a trickle discharger it would kill the battery nicely. I'd suggest when you have your new battery you either get the charger tested or if it's cheap get another one.
On the starter motor front, you can have a perfectly good starter and solenoid but if the cables/earth are bad you'll get diddly squat out of them. I had the solenoid clicking issue and it turned out the copper ring connector on the end of the +ve supply wasn't really attached. Quick resolder with a blowtorch and I haven't had a problem since.
On the starter motor front, you can have a perfectly good starter and solenoid but if the cables/earth are bad you'll get diddly squat out of them. I had the solenoid clicking issue and it turned out the copper ring connector on the end of the +ve supply wasn't really attached. Quick resolder with a blowtorch and I haven't had a problem since.
some chargers you can see if the battery is good or not...
then the status will not go up and or complete I guess...
I have this type, works very good (when the rest is good
)
http://www.ctek.com/Archive/ProductManualPdf/MXS%2...
ctek mxs 5.0
then the status will not go up and or complete I guess...
I have this type, works very good (when the rest is good
)http://www.ctek.com/Archive/ProductManualPdf/MXS%2...
ctek mxs 5.0
My charger is a ctek too.
Just got a new batt - I am sure the old one was duff, it was still charging this morning (read 13v when it had just come off the charger, but as soon as I load tested it it fell to 9v and kept dropping. When I took the load off it went back to about 10.5. Guy in the shop tested it and his machine said dead cell.
So, I have hooked up a new battery, and.... click.
Given that the battery was knackered, and the car was turning over before I tried to jump it with a booster pack (connected the correct way round!) what else could it be? Is there a fuse I could have blown or something that needs reseting after a long crank?
Need the car moving as it is blocking another one in that has an MOT tomorrow!
Just got a new batt - I am sure the old one was duff, it was still charging this morning (read 13v when it had just come off the charger, but as soon as I load tested it it fell to 9v and kept dropping. When I took the load off it went back to about 10.5. Guy in the shop tested it and his machine said dead cell.
So, I have hooked up a new battery, and.... click.
Given that the battery was knackered, and the car was turning over before I tried to jump it with a booster pack (connected the correct way round!) what else could it be? Is there a fuse I could have blown or something that needs reseting after a long crank?
Need the car moving as it is blocking another one in that has an MOT tomorrow!
NiceCupOfTea said:
On one of the chassis rails in front of the engine - maybe it's an afterthought. It looks just like the Chim one.
I don't really like the idea of bridging it though, even just to move the car off the drive...
Not having any luck with autofactors at the mo...
Fitted by Adrian Venn as a precaution against starter lead shorting out, I supplied some spares (I think) when the car was sold!I don't really like the idea of bridging it though, even just to move the car off the drive...
Not having any luck with autofactors at the mo...
Here they are
just ask the Guru!!!
phillpot said:
Chimaeras have one but in the cable to alternator, will stop the car from charging but will still crank over if battery good I think.
Had one of those fitted too, look on the bulkhead by the brake bias valve!!!Edited by Gerald-TVR on Monday 29th October 16:35
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



