What computer with cadence?
Discussion
Probably been done to death but the search facility is out of action.
Looking at getting a cycle computer with added cadence ideally wireless (as I've got a white frame). Budget around £100 but less would be better as I'm not sure how helpful it'll be. First thoughts were with the Catseye Double but have spotted a Velomann and a Sigma model that are a bit cheaper.
Are they all much of a muchness or are some wildly inaccurate and others spot on?
Looking at getting a cycle computer with added cadence ideally wireless (as I've got a white frame). Budget around £100 but less would be better as I'm not sure how helpful it'll be. First thoughts were with the Catseye Double but have spotted a Velomann and a Sigma model that are a bit cheaper.
Are they all much of a muchness or are some wildly inaccurate and others spot on?
Spend a bit more and get a garmin of some sort, far better data and much more accurate. Cadence is the least important measure of anything you can get on a bike computer imo, I'd much rather have a satellite track of where I've been, and be able to syn power/heartrate data.
There are two camps in cycle computers imo, £25 quid jobs that measure speed and little more, and garmins, the in between ones seem a waste of money to me.
There are two camps in cycle computers imo, £25 quid jobs that measure speed and little more, and garmins, the in between ones seem a waste of money to me.
I've just replaced a Cateye Strada Wireless. It gave up the ghost after a year, I think it vibrated to death. (It died in Kilmarnock, and the roads were horrific.)
http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&...
I didn't bother trying to replace it, as I have a Garmin Edge 800 now. I'd recommend the Cateye anyway, as it was good at what you need it for...
http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&...
I didn't bother trying to replace it, as I have a Garmin Edge 800 now. I'd recommend the Cateye anyway, as it was good at what you need it for...
louiebaby said:
I've just replaced a Cateye Strada Wireless. It gave up the ghost after a year, I think it vibrated to death. (It died in Kilmarnock, and the roads were horrific.)
http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&...
I didn't bother trying to replace it, as I have a Garmin Edge 800 now. I'd recommend the Cateye anyway, as it was good at what you need it for...
same with me. my cateye double wireless worked well, but the mounting system was replaced twice as the vibrations wore the lugs down.http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&...
I didn't bother trying to replace it, as I have a Garmin Edge 800 now. I'd recommend the Cateye anyway, as it was good at what you need it for...
ratbane said:
same with me. my cateye double wireless worked well, but the mounting system was replaced twice as the vibrations wore the lugs down.
It was the computer unit that succumbed to vibrations on mine.I think when you're just getting used to road biking and so on, cadence is a very important thing to be able to check, as you're not used to spinning at 90rpm, or whatever you decided to work at.
After a while, you get used to what feels right, and look less. I just spent 4 months without any cadence measurement, and didn't miss it, but I have been roadbiking with cadence measurement for about 7 or 8 years...
anonymous said:
[redacted]
It depends where you are, its easy to pick up bad habits at the start of your cycling so a cadence sensor would be right up there with a HRM if I had to list the vitals. As you become more proficient these become of less benefit due to the experience gained in the saddle.To the OP I would say get a Garmin.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
People very new to cycling often do benefit from seeing that spinning at 60 rpm isn't the best way, but once you've got out of the habbit that a bigger gear is better, you should just know.Every ride I do is between 89-95 rpm average, I don't have it displayed on my garmin even though my crank measures it, so I think its kind of whatever feels best natrually. IMO.
£370! Admittedly it looks lovely but it's a 1/3rd of the cost of my bike.
I'm not that into cycling, I cover roughly 100-125 miles over the course of a week at an average of 18mph. I was thinking that a cheaper solution would help get a little quicker but once I get the hang of it I'd just use it as a computer.
I could probably achieve that by giving up smoking and drinking but where's the fun in that.
I'm not that into cycling, I cover roughly 100-125 miles over the course of a week at an average of 18mph. I was thinking that a cheaper solution would help get a little quicker but once I get the hang of it I'd just use it as a computer.
I could probably achieve that by giving up smoking and drinking but where's the fun in that.
I nearly bought a cadence sensor a couple of weeks ago but I took some advice (possibly from here) and spent a week or so figuring out how fast my legs need to spin to maintain 80-90rpm. I did this by counting the number of revolutions in 10 secs and multiply the result by 4. I now know when I need to change up/down to maintain this rythm and have no need for a dedicated sensor.
A better bet would be an app for your phone (I use cylemeter) and I strap the phone to my cross bar to prevent GPS drop outs using one of these from tesco. I also use an HR monitor and strap the watch to my handlebar so I ensure I keep my HR at the desired level.
P
A better bet would be an app for your phone (I use cylemeter) and I strap the phone to my cross bar to prevent GPS drop outs using one of these from tesco. I also use an HR monitor and strap the watch to my handlebar so I ensure I keep my HR at the desired level.
P
paulmon said:
I nearly bought a cadence sensor a couple of weeks ago but I took some advice (possibly from here) and spent a week or so figuring out how fast my legs need to spin to maintain 80-90rpm. I did this by counting the number of revolutions in 10 secs and multiply the result by 4. I now know when I need to change up/down to maintain this rythm and have no need for a dedicated sensor.
I find that when I am tired the cadence drops even though I feel like I am spinning fast. Its also a first indicator that the tanks are running low on the long rides. For me, still in year one its a godsend and if I rode all my rides on cadence alone that wouldn't be a bad thing
The one i picked up in tesco homeplus store is different to one on the website see link below
http://www.tesco.com/direct/activequipment-17-func...
But the functions look similar, i`ve got two, one i`ve had couple of years on a mountain bike and i bought one for my road bike in early july this year, hopefully this helps
http://www.tesco.com/direct/activequipment-17-func...
But the functions look similar, i`ve got two, one i`ve had couple of years on a mountain bike and i bought one for my road bike in early july this year, hopefully this helps
ekky2000 said:
If your looking for a cheap cadance computer Tesco's do one for about fifteen quid, its run ok for last couple years for me
http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?pro...Quite a bulky/ugly fitting kit though.
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