Brake cylinder removal help
Brake cylinder removal help
Author
Discussion

SteveOS3

Original Poster:

503 posts

220 months

Monday 20th August 2012
quotequote all
The book says to unbolt cylinders from the back of the plate but i can't get a socket or spanner onto the bolts. Any tips?

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

233 months

Monday 20th August 2012
quotequote all
Are the heads rusted?
I have in similar situations used a cheap 6 sided socket out the bottom of the toolbox and ground it down a little so there is no taper going into the socket - the newly ground surface sits flat against the backplate. This gives as good a grip on the head that you can get. A 6 sided socket is not as reliant on the bolt head corners as a 'normal' star type socket.
Hope this makes some sense.

Barry S1

1,709 posts

218 months

Monday 20th August 2012
quotequote all
when i did mine i did it from the back they are bolts so
have to go in from the back just need a small socket, i had to
change the fitting on the brake end of the brake pipe as the new one was metric
but when they did it i got them to put the old fitting on the pipe
end as mine was imperial that end.
hope this is some help

Barry

SteveOS3

Original Poster:

503 posts

220 months

Monday 20th August 2012
quotequote all
Thanks for the tips gents. I found an old and cheap 10mm socket with thin walls that does the job on the nuts under the bleed nipple but I'm now having trouble with the brake pipe ends.

None of my metric or imperial spanners seem to fit well enough to apply enough pressure to release the union. An 11mm spanner fits best but it has slipped once and I don't want to run the risk of rounding by trying again.

Is there a special size for these unions?

Cheers,

Steve

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Monday 20th August 2012
quotequote all
Bolt heads are very close to the wheel cylinder, you'll need a thin wall 10mm socket (generally the better quality brands) or an old spare one you can grind down.

smash it on if you have to !



Ok too late with that bit wink

Pipe unions..... are you using an open end spanner or do you have a split ring spanner?
If really tight I'd cut through, then you can use a ring spanner or socket (or throw away if you're having new wheel cylinder) and make up a new pipe with nice new unions.


Edited by phillpot on Monday 20th August 21:41

SteveOS3

Original Poster:

503 posts

220 months

Monday 20th August 2012
quotequote all
I've been using an open-end spanner. I'm going to drop into the garage tomorrow and see if I can borrow one that fits from my mate.

I wasn't thinking of making up new pipe, if at all possible, just want to get back on the road as I've been off it for a month because of other problems.

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
quotequote all
5 quid and you've got it next time you need it..... flare spanner


might be 10mm if brake pipes aren't original


......whistle

magpies

5,203 posts

211 months

Friday 24th August 2012
quotequote all
usually 11mm

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

233 months

Friday 24th August 2012
quotequote all
unless it's imperial poss 7/16?

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Friday 24th August 2012
quotequote all
Barkychoc said:
unless it's imperial poss 7/16?
magpies said:
usually 11mm
You'd almost need a micrometer to tell the difference !

7/16" = 11.11mm wink

GadgeS3C

4,727 posts

193 months

Friday 24th August 2012
quotequote all
phillpot said:
You'd almost need a micrometer to tell the difference !

7/16" = 11.11mm wink
Or a small hammer wink

SteveOS3

Original Poster:

503 posts

220 months

Sunday 26th August 2012
quotequote all
Halfords 11mm flare spanner does the job perfectly. Thanks everyone for the advice.