Some advice on how to proceed with car stoped for some years
Discussion
Hi,
I’m thinking on buying a TVR S2 and I would like to get some advice from you.
There are not too many TVRs in Spain but I have come across with a S2 (RHD, this is a pity, much nicer for me if it was a LHD). The thing is that the car has being parked and not running for a few years, so I would like to get your advice on how to proceed in order to check in the car is worthy or not.
I was thinking on stalling a new battery so I could check that electrics works well, but in the other hand I’m worried because if the full pump is an electric one, this may cause that the pump will send old fuel to the injection system and this could be a problem in order to start the car once everything is check. What do you think?
How could I check if the engine turns freely and that it is not freeze?
Any advice will be more than welcome
Thank you
Carlos
I’m thinking on buying a TVR S2 and I would like to get some advice from you.
There are not too many TVRs in Spain but I have come across with a S2 (RHD, this is a pity, much nicer for me if it was a LHD). The thing is that the car has being parked and not running for a few years, so I would like to get your advice on how to proceed in order to check in the car is worthy or not.
I was thinking on stalling a new battery so I could check that electrics works well, but in the other hand I’m worried because if the full pump is an electric one, this may cause that the pump will send old fuel to the injection system and this could be a problem in order to start the car once everything is check. What do you think?
How could I check if the engine turns freely and that it is not freeze?
Any advice will be more than welcome
Thank you
Carlos
If it has not run for some time i guess it is cheap?
If chassis, bodywork and trim are acceptable I'd take a chance on the engine and transmission (they are generally fairly strong and reliable)
What mileage (kilometreage ???)has it done?
Can the vendor tell you why it hasn't been used, did something break, driver/owner died, moved away? etc. etc.
Good luck
Thank you for the response,
As far as I know, owner died and his wife is selling the car.
She told me that car was fine and running without problems.
Car has not a bad price (If we take into consideration that there are not too many of these cars in Spain).
I have not seen the car yet (car is 400 miles from where I live, I've seen some photos and car looks very nice, interior, exterior so that's why I think that the trip maybe worthy
Car has 82.000km and it is a 1987 S1 model
As far as I know, owner died and his wife is selling the car.
She told me that car was fine and running without problems.
Car has not a bad price (If we take into consideration that there are not too many of these cars in Spain).
I have not seen the car yet (car is 400 miles from where I live, I've seen some photos and car looks very nice, interior, exterior so that's why I think that the trip maybe worthy
Car has 82.000km and it is a 1987 S1 model
I would:
Drain the fuel tank and replace the fuel filter.
Pre-lube the cylinders (use some penetrating oil or WD40 left to soak) - easily done with the plugs out. DON'T use the WD40 can's little red plastic tube, it might fall off into the plug hole (seen it happen!).
Change the oil and filter.
Remove and/or replace the air filter.
Put a fresh battery on it.
Turn the motor over with the spark plugs pulled one short crank and then 3-4 longer ones. You might want to cover the plug holes with BIG rags in case it ejects the WD40/Penetrating oil.
Replace the plugs but NOT the HT leads and crank again...
Put the HT leads on to the old plugs (not in engine) and check for a spark. Check the distributor cap/rotor if there is none or it looks weak.
Put the HT leads on to the new plugs inthe engine.
Refill the fuel tank.
Cycle the ignition a few times
Try to start the car..
I'd also suggest you replace the tyres, coolant, brake fluid, gearbox oil etc and check to see if the handbrake is free. I'd probably also replace the calipers (they're cheap!)or at least the seals and the brake lines before driving far...
Watch the coolant temp closely as the otter switch or fan motor or thermostat might be stuck too..
Drain the fuel tank and replace the fuel filter.
Pre-lube the cylinders (use some penetrating oil or WD40 left to soak) - easily done with the plugs out. DON'T use the WD40 can's little red plastic tube, it might fall off into the plug hole (seen it happen!).
Change the oil and filter.
Remove and/or replace the air filter.
Put a fresh battery on it.
Turn the motor over with the spark plugs pulled one short crank and then 3-4 longer ones. You might want to cover the plug holes with BIG rags in case it ejects the WD40/Penetrating oil.
Replace the plugs but NOT the HT leads and crank again...
Put the HT leads on to the old plugs (not in engine) and check for a spark. Check the distributor cap/rotor if there is none or it looks weak.
Put the HT leads on to the new plugs inthe engine.
Refill the fuel tank.
Cycle the ignition a few times
Try to start the car..
I'd also suggest you replace the tyres, coolant, brake fluid, gearbox oil etc and check to see if the handbrake is free. I'd probably also replace the calipers (they're cheap!)or at least the seals and the brake lines before driving far...
Watch the coolant temp closely as the otter switch or fan motor or thermostat might be stuck too..
Edited by Julesprivate on Monday 6th August 14:42
Ola Carlos!
Before you try to start the engine, disconnect the battery, ensure the gear lever is in neutral (no gear selected), and check the engine oil is not contaminated and is at correct level on the dipstick. Check the engine coolant/antifreeze level is correct in the swirl tank & the expansion tank. Then remove the 6 spark plugs and inject a small amount of oil into each cylinder.
Leave to soak in for a while.
Meanwhile you can remove the distributor cap and clean off any corrosion deposits from the spark contacts and rotor arm. Replace cap. I would not worry too much about old petrol in the fuel tank, as long as there is no water contamination. It might help to add 4 or 5 litres of fresh 97ron gasoline to the tank before you try to start the engine.
Then try manually turning the engine slowly for 10 revolutions or so, using a spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. This will hopefully get some oil onto the cylinder walls and bearing surfaces.
If the engine will not turn over, leave the oil to soak overnight, then try again next day.
When it turns over freely, connect a good battery, and try cranking it (with the spark plugs still removed) until oil pressure rises on the gauge.
Now refit the spark plugs & ignition leads and try starting the engine. Good Luck! Glen
Before you try to start the engine, disconnect the battery, ensure the gear lever is in neutral (no gear selected), and check the engine oil is not contaminated and is at correct level on the dipstick. Check the engine coolant/antifreeze level is correct in the swirl tank & the expansion tank. Then remove the 6 spark plugs and inject a small amount of oil into each cylinder.
Leave to soak in for a while.
Meanwhile you can remove the distributor cap and clean off any corrosion deposits from the spark contacts and rotor arm. Replace cap. I would not worry too much about old petrol in the fuel tank, as long as there is no water contamination. It might help to add 4 or 5 litres of fresh 97ron gasoline to the tank before you try to start the engine.
Then try manually turning the engine slowly for 10 revolutions or so, using a spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. This will hopefully get some oil onto the cylinder walls and bearing surfaces.
If the engine will not turn over, leave the oil to soak overnight, then try again next day.
When it turns over freely, connect a good battery, and try cranking it (with the spark plugs still removed) until oil pressure rises on the gauge.
Now refit the spark plugs & ignition leads and try starting the engine. Good Luck! Glen
Julesprivate said:
I would:
Drain the fuel tank and replace the fuel filter.
Pre-lube the cylinders (use some penetrating oil or WD40 left to soak) - easily done with the plugs out. DON'T use the WD40 can's little red plastic tube, it might fall off into the plug hole (seen it happen!).
Change the oil and filter.
Remove and/or replace the air filter.
Put a fresh battery on it.
Turn the motor over with the spark plugs pulled one short crank and then 3-4 longer ones. You might want to cover the plug holes with BIG rags in case it ejects the WD40/Penetrating oil.
Replace the plugs but NOT the HT leads and crank again...
Put the HT leads on to the old plugs (not in engine) and check for a spark. Check the distributor cap/rotor if there is none or it looks weak.
Put the HT leads on to the new plugs inthe engine.
Refill the fuel tank.
Cycle the ignition a few times
Try to start the car..
I'd also suggest you replace the tyres, coolant, brake fluid, gearbox oil etc and check to see if the handbrake is free. I'd probably also replace the calipers (they're cheap!)or at least the seals and the brake lines before driving far...
Watch the coolant temp closely as the otter switch or fan motor or thermostat might be stuck too..
Drain the fuel tank and replace the fuel filter.
Pre-lube the cylinders (use some penetrating oil or WD40 left to soak) - easily done with the plugs out. DON'T use the WD40 can's little red plastic tube, it might fall off into the plug hole (seen it happen!).
Change the oil and filter.
Remove and/or replace the air filter.
Put a fresh battery on it.
Turn the motor over with the spark plugs pulled one short crank and then 3-4 longer ones. You might want to cover the plug holes with BIG rags in case it ejects the WD40/Penetrating oil.
Replace the plugs but NOT the HT leads and crank again...
Put the HT leads on to the old plugs (not in engine) and check for a spark. Check the distributor cap/rotor if there is none or it looks weak.
Put the HT leads on to the new plugs inthe engine.
Refill the fuel tank.
Cycle the ignition a few times
Try to start the car..
I'd also suggest you replace the tyres, coolant, brake fluid, gearbox oil etc and check to see if the handbrake is free. I'd probably also replace the calipers (they're cheap!)or at least the seals and the brake lines before driving far...
Watch the coolant temp closely as the otter switch or fan motor or thermostat might be stuck too..
Edited by Julesprivate on Monday 6th August 14:42
I agree with this advice, especially relacing tyres, brake flexible pipes, and brake fluid/caliper seals before driving far. Have you got a trailer to get it home 400 miles?
If the car nas been stored outside or in humid conditions then the brake discs & drums will be corroded, also the CHASSIS. Check this carefully, especially the outriggers behind the front wheels & in front of the rear wheels. If badly corroded, it means a body lift to repair.
All of this should help you negotiate a fair price.
We all hope you can return another TVR S to the road, where it should be, they are the most fun you can have with your clothes on! You will not regret it Carlos.
I bought a mercedes 190e a few years ago that had stood for 2 years. I disconnected the coil HT lead, put a bit of penetrating oil in the spark plug holes ones night, and err turned it over (with the aid of a charger) in the morning, put the HT lead back and plugs in and just started it up, drove it, rough as a dog for 1/2 mile on just one wheel braking, after 2 miles it was four wheel braking and just fine for £150!
After a bit of a service (and an MOT), I drove it 2000 miles across europe with a mate.
http://www.youtube.com/user/80srecycled
If your chassis not rusty, you are most of the way there! If it'll start and run, you pretty much are there.
If it'll drive home - you are a lucky man!
After a bit of a service (and an MOT), I drove it 2000 miles across europe with a mate.
http://www.youtube.com/user/80srecycled
If your chassis not rusty, you are most of the way there! If it'll start and run, you pretty much are there.
If it'll drive home - you are a lucky man!
Thank you very much,
I think I will fit a new battery and desconect the fuel pump. Then I will try all the electrical gadgets.
If everything works ok, then I will go and check if the engine turns freely.
Next step will be getting the car on the trailer and back home with me.
Flush the tank, fill it with new gas, oil inside the cylinders, move the pistons a few times, new plugs and try to start the engine.
Thank you all
Carlos
I think I will fit a new battery and desconect the fuel pump. Then I will try all the electrical gadgets.
If everything works ok, then I will go and check if the engine turns freely.
Next step will be getting the car on the trailer and back home with me.
Flush the tank, fill it with new gas, oil inside the cylinders, move the pistons a few times, new plugs and try to start the engine.
Thank you all
Carlos
In UK, I would expect to find a very good TVR S in current use for £4000.
For one that has not been used for a long time, I would only pay £2000 if the chassis was okay & the engine was running.
The car you are thinking of buying will need a lot of things replacing, tyres, brakes, fluids etc, so this needs to be considered. Tell this to the seller.
It all depends on condition and how much you want the car.
Also what is the cost of importing a car into Spain?
This would need to be added to the UK values.
You can search "TVR S" on eBay to get a UK value.
There is one in Scotland for restoration that is currently under £1000 bid price.
You must view your car objectively and not get "carried away" with excitement.
Good luck,
Glen
For one that has not been used for a long time, I would only pay £2000 if the chassis was okay & the engine was running.
The car you are thinking of buying will need a lot of things replacing, tyres, brakes, fluids etc, so this needs to be considered. Tell this to the seller.
It all depends on condition and how much you want the car.
Also what is the cost of importing a car into Spain?
This would need to be added to the UK values.
You can search "TVR S" on eBay to get a UK value.
There is one in Scotland for restoration that is currently under £1000 bid price.
You must view your car objectively and not get "carried away" with excitement.
Good luck,
Glen
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