Problem with First Gear!
Discussion
Slowly working my way through the 'must do' jobs on my new S3.
Next on the list is the Gearbox/Clutch problem. At junctions, it is difficult to put the car into first gear. I have to start moving stick towards second, then forward into first.
Has anyone experienced a similar problem? I can get reverse and other gears ok, just first is difficult.
I want to take it to a garage to get it sorted but don't know if it is a clutch worn, or knackered gearbox, and scared that a garage will simply change the clutch, only for the same problem to exist, £££££££££££££ etc.
Thanks
Next on the list is the Gearbox/Clutch problem. At junctions, it is difficult to put the car into first gear. I have to start moving stick towards second, then forward into first.
Has anyone experienced a similar problem? I can get reverse and other gears ok, just first is difficult.
I want to take it to a garage to get it sorted but don't know if it is a clutch worn, or knackered gearbox, and scared that a garage will simply change the clutch, only for the same problem to exist, £££££££££££££ etc.
Thanks
Sandgrounder said:
I had to top up master cylinder yesterday.
IF it is the master cylinder, why is only first gear affected??
The rest will follow IF it is the master cylinder, why is only first gear affected??
.... it's only a suggestion, keep an eye on that fluid level. Does pumping the pedal two or three times make it easier?Apart from reverse it is generally the only gear engaged whilst stationary. and reverse has no syncro it is just a straight toothed "crash gear"
When I purchased my S2 over 3 years ago I remember my test drive before purchase how awkward it was to select 1st gear, the previous owner said it had been like that during his ownership and now 3 years later during my ownership it's still the same, Ive just adapted to it I suppose and without thinking I just pull back to second then up into first.
The master and slave cylinders were dry when I checked after purchase plus the fluid level is fine.
Like you all other gears select ok so perhaps it's wear in the box or the clutch pressure plate to getting tired but as I say I have adapted to it so don't give it a second thought.
The master and slave cylinders were dry when I checked after purchase plus the fluid level is fine.
Like you all other gears select ok so perhaps it's wear in the box or the clutch pressure plate to getting tired but as I say I have adapted to it so don't give it a second thought.
When I bought my S3C from David Geralds Doug told me that he thought that by design the clutch set up meant there was only just enough travel. This made 1st difficult to engage, especially cold.
Not having driven another S I can't comment whether "they're all like that Sir" but there does seem to be a fair number where this occurs.
Not having driven another S I can't comment whether "they're all like that Sir" but there does seem to be a fair number where this occurs.
I am struggling to accept that the gearbox is 'just like that' and from memory, the test drives I did in other S's were fine.
So I'll start with sorting the Master cylinder and hope for a bit of luck. I might take to a transmission specialist for a free check and also see what they think.
Thanks for the info guys.
Graham
So I'll start with sorting the Master cylinder and hope for a bit of luck. I might take to a transmission specialist for a free check and also see what they think.
Thanks for the info guys.
Graham
Sandgrounder said:
I recall reading a 'biography, on a recent thread by NiceCupofTea which made bleeding the system sound like a nightmare.
LOL!
In fairness I made it sound an awful lot harder than it is! I had no luck bleeding by hand but a cheap Eazibleed had it sorted in a few minutes, dead easy!Selecting 1st isn't too tricky on mine, if anything 2nd is harder, rather than straight back on the gate it seems to be straight back and fractionally to the left, so 1st - 2nd changes are never frantically quick! Obviously unrelated to your issue though.
I agree that clutch hydraulics / hole in clutch actuation lever are first things to check.
At work so can't access photo at the mo but basically the slave cylinder pushes a little push-rod thingy (TVR special) which pushes against the clutch release arm. There is a hole in the release arm to locate it but it is a "keyhole" shaped hole, it's a Ford item and designed for cable operation, so it has been known for that hole to open out letting the push-rod "punch" through, loosing some or all movement.
A simple fluid leak is far more common

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